07sierra8.1

Thank you. My father bought it used in 1988. Him and I restored it in 2001. When it was restored, you were still able to get OEM body parts from GM. Currently the only body parts on it that are not GM are the cab corners and Rockers since to get those in original GM, he would have had to buy the whole door opening of the cab. The aftermarket rockers are the only thing that rotted back out. Everything else is solid. He handed the truck down to me in 2012. I am slowly going through and restoring things over again since it has pretty much sat outside since it was restored.

Hello all, I am working on putting my 1986 K20 back together. I pulled the motor out to change the clutch and refinish the frame rails in the front. The engine was rebuilt back in the early 2000s, however the previous owner (my father) lost the built sheet for the engine. So while I had the engine out I pulled the cam to get the specs on that and fix a few small issues with the motor as well as repaint it. We figure the engine only has roughly 35-45k miles on it since rebuild since the truck sat and only was driven 3-4 times a year. My question is, when putting the cam back in, do I need to use assembly lube on the lobes and bearings or just coat them with a thin layer of oil and put it back in? The Lifters and push rods are all going back into the respective location that they came out of. So all the parts that have broken in together are back with their mated surfaces so I would assume just oil will be fine but I am not 100% sure with that???

Hello All, I have a 2007 Sierra 2500HD classic with 8.1L big block. For several years now I have had trouble with the ABS activating right before the truck comes to a stop. I figured I had a sensor going bad. I replaced both front sensors on the wheel bearing hub, that helped but didnt 100% fix the problem. I am aware that there is not independent wheel sensors for the rear wheels so in order for the abs computer to monitor the rear wheel speed it uses the speed sensor on the transmission/transfer case. Everything I have read or looked into about this issue, no one mentions that this sensor could be the culprit, everything always points to the front sensors. I have an Autel Scanner that I can monitor in real time the speed of all 3 of these sensors while driving, all sensors read the same while driving, however when slowing down, the rear sensor seems to be the first one to drop speed by about 1 second. I cant actually see if a sensor drops to zero before stopping because the lowest read out it will go to is 3.7mph, even without moving all 3 sensors read 3.7. Could the rear sensor in the transmission be my problem?

I didnt drop the tank or lift the bed when i did mine, it took alot of wiggling and having a friend help but i got it through. It might not be sitting exactly where the oem line sat but its possible to get it done. 2007 Sierra 2500 classic with extended cab 8' bed. By far was the best choice I made, took me about 5-6 hours to put the whole kit in. Make sure you either have a scan tool or a friend with a scan tool that can do ABS automated bleed or else the pedal wont feel right. If you need I can copy the information onto here of an inexpensive one i bought that can do the Auto Bleed.

Hello All, I have a 2007 Sierra 2500HD classic with 8.1L big block. For several years now I have had trouble with the ABS activating right before the truck comes to a stop. I figured I had a sensor going bad. I replaced both front sensors on the wheel bearing hub, that helped but didnt 100% fix the problem. I am aware that there is not independent wheel sensors for the rear wheels so in order for the abs computer to monitor the rear wheel speed it uses the speed sensor on the transmission/transfer case. Everything I have read or looked into about this issue, no one mentions that this sensor could be the culprit, everything always points to the front sensors. I have an Autel Scanner that I can monitor in real time the speed of all 3 of these sensors while driving, all sensors read the same while driving, however when slowing down, the rear sensor seems to be the first one to drop speed by about 1 second. I cant actually see if a sensor drops to zero before stopping because the lowest read out it will go to is 3.7mph, even without moving all 3 sensors read 3.7. Could the rear sensor in the transmission be my problem?

We have a car trailer that has a full size car battery in it for the break away switch for the electric brakes. The trailer battery went bad so if the trailer is hooked to the truck for 2-3 days without moving or starting; it drains the truck battery from the hot wire constantly trying to charge the battery. Try having the camper battery load tested.

Times are tough right now guys...HAHAHA Commuter Car... And sometimes I foreget its not my truck!