citydriver

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Check for the wiIring harness that runs over the transmission bell housing to the back of the right (passenger) cylinder head. Make sure it didn't get pinched between the trans and the engine block. Also make sure the ground on the back of the head is secure/tight.

Tail gate light bars sometimes mess with the lighting system also, if not installed correctly, or even the control board for the light bar goes bad without you realizing it. I would start by returning the stock bulbs into the tail lights and recheck. While you are in there take a good look at the lighting harness and check for damage. I don't mean anything by using the word "cheap" it's just that sometimes when you put LED bulbs in place of standard bulbs, the resistance values of the circuit changes and causes the BCM to miss read and causes issues with it's intended operation. It usually takes more research and parts to correct it. The electrical systems on newer vehicles can be quite the pain when doing even simple mods. Good luck. I need to go into work now.

Sometimes cheap LED bulbs or tail lights will cause feed back issues with the BCM. Have you done any modifications that may have caused un intended circumstances? Just throwing it out there. I work really weird hours, and sometimes cant reply for awhile, but some on the forums may be able to help with more information. This link may help you better understand how the electrical and lighting system works. Go to electrical and look for description and operation https://www.gmupfitter.com/pages/body-builder-manuals.

Depending on the Model and year of the truck , there may not be power to that wire unless the ignition switch is in the "on" position. Almost ALL lighting functions are controlled by the BCM (Body Control Module). You can get an accurate description of operation and wiring diagrams on the link https://www.gmupfitter.com/pages/body-builder-manuals.

It's been awhile, but if I remember correctly the blue and red wires are taped to the trailer wiring harness near the under hood fuse block. The red wire is for the battery +12v terminal on the 7 way trailer connector. the end near the fuse block should be attached to one of the studs on the fuse block and you may need to put a fuse in the block. The decal under the fuse block cover should tell you which slot to use. The blue wire is the electric brake wire that goes to the 7 way trailer connector, this is where your trailer brake controller wire (usually blue) gets connected to. Check this link https://www.etrailer.com/faq-cbc.aspx

If there was a trouble code set, and the Check Engine Light was on, the factory remote start will not even attempt to crank the engine. The lights may flash, but as soon as it "reads" the code, the computer will shut down the process. If it will not start with the key, but still cranks, there is another issue that will have to be diagnosed. Check all of the fuses. Check the battery connections. You should be able to hear the fuel pump turn on and run for a second or two when the key is turned to the "run" position before you try to start the engine. These are just the first couple of things I would check.

How bad was the damage? where the brake lines damaged and replaced or removed to perform the repair? The shop may not have bled the system correctly. Also check the rear brake adjustment. If the rear drum brake shoes aren't adjusted properly, the pedal will sink and almost feel soft.

Is your check engine (Service Engine Soon) light on ? The factory remote start will not work if there is a fault. If it is an aftermarket unit, you will need to find out what make and model it is before you can even begin to troubleshoot it.

I've also seen the lens of the 3rd brake light/cargo lamp crack slightly, either due to over tightening the screws or just plain sun fatigue. Plastic doesn't last as long in sunny climates. My friend in central FL is always battling the sun drying plastic out.

They all leak, there is no such thing as a permanent seal. the gutter is there to catch any moisture that seeps past the seal in a pouring rain or pressured car wash, or even seal shrinkage due to age or dirt on the seal. I've even had bug guts on the glass and cause a slight leak when its closed. I'm not saying that there couldn't be a leak at the 3rd brake light or roof marker lamps or even the mouse/shark fin antenna on the roof. All of these are a possibility. But anytime you put a hole in the roof for something, there is a possibility of it eventually leaking. It just requires more attention when you do your maintenance inspection.

Also. if you find that you have a clogged drain, the recommended procedure is to use compressed air to clean the tubes. But that is a pain, I use string trimmer line, I don't recommend using any kind of wire, you don't want any sharp edges to nick or puncture the drain hose. There are plenty of online guides/videos for checking and cleaning the drains. Just be careful, brute force is not required here. you don't want to knock the drain tubes off of the gutter assembly.

When you open the sunroof fully and look from above, you should see what looks like a plastic tray, stretching across the front. There are holes in the front corners aprox. 1/4 inch diameter. the rear drains are harder to see. but you can usually make them out using a flashlight. I usually take a bottle of water and slowly pour a little water in the trays and make sure the water is flowing out.

I have a '13 with a sunroof. after a couple of years my fastening hardware became slightly loose on the passenger side. I really didn't notice any leaks, however I did notice that the glass was not seating correctly on the seal. The glass was slightly higher than the roof. When I looked for an adjustment is when I noticed one of the screws had loosened. Once I tightened it after making sure the glass sat right, I haven't had a problem. but I do keep an eye on it. I also make sure to open it fully and clean the seal on a regular basis. I also lubricate the seal with silicone spray and a rag, not to mention making sure the drains are kept clear and in working order. There is also a Sunroof motor/actuator teach/relearn procedure that the dealer can perform after all adjustments have been verified.

Just something you guys can check that I've run into a couple of times. If the fuse is good and the contacts in the fuse panel/block are clean (corrosion is an issue at times in the under hood fuse block, especially in areas where road salt is used in the winter). Check the main wire harness connector under the seat. Check for power AND ground connections on both sides of the connector (sorry, I don't have pictures). I have found problems with the main ground losing connection due to corrosion. If it's corroded, that damn connector is a royal pain to get apart. If it was loose and caused arcing, the connector body may also be melted. But it's usually that main power connecter under the seat that causes the issues if only one seat is not functioning.