ShotgunZ71

I replaced the OE tires a couple months ago and went with the new Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac RT. Slightly different tread than regular Duratracs, plus Kevlar for extra stability and puncture resistance. Very happy with the ride, noise and towing our fifth wheel.

You're quite welcome. I'm far from a diesel or emissions expert, but all I can offer is my personal experiences and opinions. I can only recommend you make the best decision for your uses and budget. I've been on both sides of that one, too! Some say work the crap out of modern diesels and some say to treat them like fine China. I say just use it normally like any other vehicle and do regular maintenance like any other vehicle. Crap can happen to anything and anybody.

I think the main thing is what the manufacturers have learned regarding emissions, their standards, and their equipment the use to control the emissions. Many have noted that DEF consumption has increased for all manufacturers the past couple years, and some have stated longer regen intervals. Much of that can vary depending on how the vehicle is driven. However, small changes in programming can help meet the ever increasing standards without a hardware change. Yes, I would be (and am) fine with the GM diesel. I think the Duramax, Powerstroke, and Cummins are all three good powerplants across the board. I also had good service from my L8T. I could go back to one and not think twice.

The CP4 hasn't been used in GM trucks since 2016. Since then, they have used a Denso fuel pump which has been a pretty good piece and reliable. I think you'll be fine with any L5P if you want a later model GM diesel truck. While the emission regulations are getting tighter and tougher, the issues are fewer and reliability better among all brands. That is good for the consumer, but does leave some doubt and hesitancy in buyers.

As some have read in the other thread, I sealed mine myself. On a previous truck, I had a dealer do the repairs and I ended up redoing that hack job that kept leaking. This time, all was done by me. No, I'm not going to keep doing it if it comes back. I'll either have a solid glass put in or I'll just get rid of it.

We've had a couple good rains since repair. So far, it's doing well. Time will tell how long it will hold. Either way, I've more faith in my own repair than the dealer again for this issue. I'm done with GM and their sliders until the design changes. If leaks return, either the truck is gone or a solid glass will be put in.

I recently repaired by leaking slider and posted in the 1500 section, but wanted to post here since many likely don't frequent the 1500 section if the only have HD trucks. I recently sealed my cracked, leaking rear slider. First, I took the headliner loose to about the middle of the cab. Then, I removed the spoiler and cleaned the roof and window frame with compressed air, water and then rubbing alcohol. I then applied AC Delco seam sealer along the top of the window frame all across. Let that sit for a day and then put 3M strip caulk on every bolt mounting surface and the 4 bolt holes on the ends. Once the spoiler was in place and nuts and bolts tightened, there was strip caulk sealing each side of every bolt and nut, as well as the 2 alignment pins. We've had some rain since and so far it is holding well. It wasn't a bad ordeal, but not something I want or will do on a regular basis. Too many other other choices of trucks to deal with this poor engineering, design and suppliers. Short of going to a glass company or body shop and having the fixed glass installed, this is good way to try to stop the leak yourself without going to the dealer and the aggravation of such. YMMV.

I recently sealed my cracked, leaking rear slider. First, I took the headliner loose to about the middle of the cab. Then, I removed the spoiler and cleaned the roof and window frame with compressed air, water and then rubbing alcohol. I then applied AC Delco seam sealer along the top of the window frame all across. Let that sit for a day and then put 3M strip caulk on every bolt mounting surface and the 4 bolt holes on the ends. Once the spoiler was in place and nuts and bolts tightened, there was strip caulk sealing each side of every bolt and nut, as well as the 2 alignment pins. We've had some rain since and so far it is holding well. It wasn't a bad ordeal, but not something I want or will do on a regular basis. Too many other other choices of trucks to deal with this poor engineering, design and suppliers. Short of going to a glass company or body shop and having the fixed glass installed, this is good way to try to stop the leak yourself without going to the dealer and the aggravation of such. YMMV.

Back in the day when you had the ignition key to start it, then the oval key (GM and Ford) for the doors and trunk. Two keys, but still a simpler time.

I'm hearing that Ford has tightened up some things for 2023 Super Duty where Forscan doesn't get everything as customizable as before. Not sure, as I don't know anymore that has gotten a 2023 yet. It would be nice if GM would allow you to at least switch the tachometer and speedometer locations on the newer trucks!

If it has the OEM "Ranchos", you could have changed them when you drove it home. Other than that, the Bilstein 5100 or 4600 series are very good replacements. Some have gotten a set of Fox shocks, too. I changed mine out before 25k miles and have been very happy with the improved ride and handling, especially when loaded. I went with the Bilstein 5100s. The stock shocks were already shot, but no visible leaks.

My current truck got the power step update when I had the oil changed. So far, they've been great since.

Ok. I know they work on the pre-24 HD trucks. Probably due to the new electrical architecture on the refresh. Maybe someone will have an updated test plug for you soon, or you can rig something up.

Harbor Freight has test plug for $4 that will allow the turn signal camera mode to be active. Works very well!

That looks very good at night. It's not overpowering, either.