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Xenawise

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  • Name
    Carl Miles
  • Location
    Rio Rancho, NM
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2016 GMC Sierra Denali 1500 4x4 White Frost Tricoat

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  1. Are both of the running boards doing this (driver AND passenger)? What if when they are retracted and you press the foot switch on the end of the running board, does it swing out to the rear position? If pressed again, does the running board fully retract? There is a Hall Sensor (basically a sensor that detects magnetic fields) inside each motor that senses the position of the running board. Not entirely sure what happens if these go bad or if these sensors are actually replaceable. I would think this is a sensor issue since the running boards do extend and retract, they just don't extract to the proper position when you open the door. As I said the Hall Sensor is inside each motor and needs to be wired up to the control module. Each Hall sensor uses 3 wires, a +5V Reference wire, a ground wire (or Low Reference), and the sensor output wire. These go to the X2 connector on the module (the 12-pin connector) and they occupy pins 1 thru 6 of said connector. On the motor assemblies themselves, there is an 8-pin connector for each, and the Hall Sensor uses three of the 8 connections (pin 2, 3, and 4). You can see these in the Upfitters Body Builders Electrical manuals for the Sierra 2016 and above. I would double check these wires are correctly pinned, as if they are not the sensor would not work to tell the control module where the running board position is. Good luck and keep us informed on what you find. Xenawise
  2. So are you saying that if you kick the switch on the back of the running board, it does NOT make the boards go fully back for access to the bed? If that is the case, I would suspect that the kick switch is either faulty or not hooked up properly to the running board controller module. I assume the passenger side also does not work? The Running Board controller module handles all these functions, there is nothing inside the truck that will affect this. The truck interior communicates with the running board module via the data bus. The module gets info like the door is open or closed from the data bus. The disable signal is separate from the data bus and is a discrete wire run to the module (if I recall, its been a few years). So again, if you can get a wiring diagram of the running boards it will help you determine the problem. But the kick switches go to the module directly. I don't have a wiring diagram, but do see the pin-outs for the module from the Up-Fitters site manual for the the 2016 model. Maybe the 2017 or later manual might have actual wiring diagrams. Anyway, on the 12-pin connector on the module (the other connector on the module is for power and motor control), the left kick switch is pin 11, the right kick switch is pin 12. I suspect when you kick the switch, it will provide continuity to ground (basically short the wire to ground). These are all weather-pak connectors so you will have a hard time probing them with all the weatherproofing on them. But you could unplug the connector and hook up meter leads from a Digital Multi-meter to pin 11 and pin 7 and kick the switch and see if your meter beeps (set in continuity mode) when you press in the kick switch in the left side and hold it in. When you release the kick switch the beeping should stop. Move one lead over to pin 12 (keep the other lead on pin 7) and do the same for the right side. If you get no beeps, then the wiring up to the module is bad and you have to trace back to see where it is broken. Now, each running board has a connector that connects to the module and it is an 8-pin connector: Pin 7 and 8 are for the kick switch. Unplug this connector and do the same test as you did before, just use pins 7 and 8 for your connections. If you still don't get continuity, then there is probably a problem in the harness that runs in the running board to the kick switch. There is also a 2-pin connector close to the switch as well that you can check. Basically either the switches are bad or maybe even missing, or you have a wiring harness problem, or depending on how the made the harnesses to connect up to the running boards and the module may have even left this wiring completely out. in any case, good luck with what you find. Hopefully it can be easily resolved. Xenawise
  3. Search that document for "BRS" minus the quotes. That is the running board RPO option. You will get much more information. Where the power comes from (Connector X4, Pin G6 (30A Fuse) in the Underhood Fuse Block - Page 6-48), the ground goes to G420 (search that for a location diagram) - Page 6-85, and the Running Board Disable Signal (CKT 7462 (search "7462" to get more info on where this circuit goes) - you will find it comes out of connector for the dash switches (Page 6-836, Pin 8, you can check if this is populated in your truck - since it is an SLT I bet you it is there), and goes to X138 Connector (Body Harness to Chassis Harness). Look at pin 2 (Running Board Disable Signal) and pin 11 (low speed GMLAN Serial Data). That is what you need to get the module up and running. You truck did not have the BRS option so the chassis wiring harness will not have the wiring or the connectors to plug into the module. So you either need to make up your own custom harness from scratch (with all the connectors and pins and wire) for this or get a chassis harness from GM that has all the wiring for the BRS running boards already in it and strip the wiring out of the harness and adapt it to your truck. The Upfitter manual I was referencing to above is the 2019 Lite Duty Sierra Electrical manual: https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/1162/19_sierra_1500_body_builder_Feb_20_19.pdf Xenawise
  4. That in under the dash inside the truck, the running board control module is mounted to the frame of the running boards so that would be on the outside of the truck. So no, that connector is not for the running boards. I have no idea what that would be used for. Would have to look at a wiring diagram to even phantom a guess. Maybe the Trailer Brake Module? You would never see an exposed connector on the outside of the truck where water and such could get into the connector and start corrosion and other bad things. All connectors on the outside of the truck should be a sealed type to prevent water and oil from getting to the contacts. Xenawise
  5. From the looks of the 2019 articulating running boards on a 2019 Denali, they look just like previous model so I would dare say mechanically they are probably the same. I believe the electronics in the 2019 is new, so the data bus is probably different so the running boards would need a new control box to talk to the 2019 data bus, and that would just require a new control module. Not sure if it physically is the same as the old control box, my guess would be it is. If not, then it would need a new retainer as well to match the new control box and mounting to the running board frame. The wiring harness would more or less be the same, differing in relation to the frame of the truck and how the routing over to the passenger running board is done. All in all, it should not be much different from the older running board setup, just have to keep in mind maybe a new control module would be needed as well as finding where the proper pins are in the truck harness to attach the data bus line as well as the running board disable line, if it even needs that any longer with the new control module. You would also need a new switch bar that would include the running board disable switch, and I bet your SLT will already have the wiring in-place to handle this. Just some opinions from having done this on my 2016 Denali. Good luck with the conversion! Xenawise
  6. You should be able to extend or retract the motors on the individual running boards by applying +12V and Ground to the thick gauge wires going to the connector on the running board. Don't connect to the module connectors, connect to the running board connectors. You will only see two thick gauge wires, those are the motor wires. The rest of the wires are for the sensors and kick switch. These thick gauge wires go to the motor and depending on the polarity you hook up, the motor will extend or retract. Hook +12V to one wire, and ground the other. The motor should work and the board will extend or retract. If it extends, then just reverse the wires to the connector and the motor will retract. Xenawise
  7. I think you want part number: 23180142 SWITCH, VEHICLE STABILITY CONTROL SYSTEM(BLACK CARBON)(5 BUTTON BANK) Fitting Vehicle Options CK1(43)(BRS,JF4,UD7)(EXC JHD,UHX) This has 5 buttons, BRS= Power Assist Steps, JF4= Power Adjust Pedals, UD5/UD7= Sensor Indicator - Parking Assist I believe all the button banks have the Traction Control Switch and the Cargo Lamp Switch. Xenawise
  8. More info since SoonerTA has asked me: The cheapest wiring harness with the BRS running board wiring harness inside that I could find is part number 84006174. You also will need the interior switch bank with the seven switches so you can turn the running boards on or off and that part number is 23180146 (fully loaded 8 switch bank - others are available). I purchased them through www.mygmwholesaleparts.com, best price and shipping rate I could find. Delivered in two days! Excellent service from these guys! Xenawise
  9. Don't know of any dummy plugs to go into the harness. Guess you could just get some harness tape or electrical tape and tape them shut. Maybe pull the fuse for the running boards unless you are using the same circuit for the AMP boards. Be careful if you ship them out to someone in the closed state. During shipping, the running boards may push into the stops and bend the boards at that area. That's what happened to mine. Not a big deal, but it could of been avoided if the boards were extended a bit outward. What are folks doing with these running boards once they get them off? Anyone looking to sell? Xenawise
  10. I would recommend that you open the door on the side you are going to remove so the steps come out. Then you can unplug the harness to the motor on that step and begin removing the bolts that hold it to the frame. These are pretty heavy so you will need to support the step as you remove it. It is much heavier on the front end of the steps where the motor assembly is. It is pretty easy to get all the bolts out. You will probably ship the boards if you sell them in the extended state as this will help prevent any damage to them. That is how they are shipped out from a GM dealer as well. The harness you detach from will stay with your truck. It is part of the main chassis harness and you cannot remove it (without a lot of difficulty). I think there were like a dozen bolts that hold the boards to the bottom of the cab. Some are higher up and go through the motor mountings and some are on the lower lip of the running board frame. Just make sure you support the boards so you don't damage them once they come loose from the cab. I think they weigh in around 60-70lbs per board. I suppose you are replacing these perhaps with some AMP boards? Are you looking to sell these take off boards? I might be interested if the price is right. Good luck with the removal and enjoy your new 2017 Denali! Regards, Xenawise Here is a parts book blow-up of the system. Does not show all of the mounting points but #19 and #26 are the main bolts. #4 is the frame that all these bolts will go through.
  11. Nice lights on the boards. Would be interested in learning more about them. How you hooked them up, what kind of lights they are, etc. I also see you have the lighted door handles. I have my handles, just need to get them painted and then do all the wonderful wiring. I might wire them up to the door switch night lamps. that way, they will come on and stay on even when you are moving. I believe the interior door switches illuminate when you unlock the vehicle and stay lit for a while when you remote lock the vehicle. In any case, awesome work there and congrats on a sweet looking truck! Xenawise
  12. The kick buttons have a separate wire harness that runs the length of the boards and plugs into the motor harness which plugs into the control module. You can unplug this harness from the motor harness, and maybe that is just not plugged in. If the boards extend when you open the doors, then you should be able to tap the kick switch and the boards should articulate to the rear position for bed access. The close the door and they should fully retract. Then tap the kick button again and they should articulate from the fully retracted position to the fully rearward position. If the boards show disabled, then yes, they would not extend when the doors are opened/closed, but they might still work when you press the kick button. I have not really tried that scenario, so I am not sure. Good job on getting them installed and working! It's a lot of work but I think it makes the truck much more streamlined than having the factory running boards sticking out all the time. Xenawise
  13. Hopefully Tleesmith14 will report his success or failure with the switch he ordered. I know when I did mine, the wire was already there in the switch harness. I find it interesting that the Running Board Disable wire was already existing in the LT harness. It does seem this could be used for a couple of different options so as long as you are using only one option at a time maybe it will work just fine. Perhaps the OP could also order the switch and see if it works for him as well. I know when I did my conversion, I was already working with a Denali, so if there is BCM programming needed, it already had it. I do get DIC messages when the boards are disabled or enabled, so I would be interested to see if this happens on the lower trim trucks as well. Anyway, this is not an "easy" modification to do, but if you have the means, the case and know something about the wiring of these trucks, you can certainly do this. Props to the OP for all the raw terminal and connector part numbers! I was having a rough time finding these and by the time I purchased all of it along with the wire and my time to build the harnesses from scratch, I kind of cheated and just purchased a new truck harness (cheapest I could find with the BRS option) and stripped out the running board harness from the rest of the harness. That way I had all the proper connectors and everything was hooked up exactly as the factory would do it including the harness that runs over to the passenger running board and all the mounting hardware so you can just push the wire harness retainers into the existing holes in the chassis for the passenger side. Even with the factory harness, you do have de-pin the +12v battery voltage wire, the GMLAN wire and the disable wire from the new harness, but you don't have to crimp any new connectors and only have to take the fuse box apart and just slide in the connectors in the trucks existing harness. So much easier for someone who would be challenged making up their own harness (and crimping the connectors and getting the "right" crimper tool and de-pin tool(s) which are a bit costly for a one-time job). Just goes to show that there is always more than one way to skin a cat! Also, excellent video describing this process! I only wish I could do such as good a job as you did. Major props! Xenawise
  14. Why are you taking the Tri-Mode running boards off? Putting on AMPs? If so I might be interested in picking up another set. Xenawise
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