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jmpidgeo

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  • Location
    Taylorsville, In
  • Drives
    2005 GMC Sierra

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  1. Not to mention that they went through 2 oil changes worth of Mobil 1 since they dropped the pan twice, LOL. Obviously only charged me for 1 oil change worth.
  2. Not too far off then, probably rounded it off to 7 hrs @ $100/hr. $100/hr seems like the going rate for a dealership, if not more expensive in some cases. I especially don't feel bad since they had all day yesterday and half the day today working on it, so I bet they put a solid 12 hours of labor into it between diagnosis, oil pump and seals round 1, and the oil pump seals round 2
  3. No, I only paid for one round of the oil pump R&R. The oil pump was quoted as a 7.5 hour job by the service advisor when I called them up to discuss how much it might cost. Overall he quoted me $950 for the oil pump R&R and around $350 for the pickup tube seal(s) job separately (parts + labor). They charged me a flat $700 for labor.
  4. Aaand I have my truck back. Just as I thought in the back of my mind, the tech messed up installing the pump so the pickup tube wasn't properly sealed to it. All good now, $700 in labor later plus parts. 40 psi at idle sure makes me feel better than the previous 3-15 psi
  5. LOL. Just got the call. As luck would have it, he got it put back together with new pump, seals, gaskets, coolant, and oil, started it up, and it had 0 oil pressure at all. Guess they think that the brand new pump is faulty, so they're doing it all over again with a new pump arriving in the morning. I don't mind driving this new truck more, so at least I have that going for me. It just seems odd to me that the brand new pump is faulty, but I'm also not sure what else could cause 0 oil pressure when the pump and seals are all that has been changed from the 208k mile stuff.
  6. Waiting to get the call back from the dealer, patiently. Supposed to be buttoning the truck up and test driving it this morning.
  7. turns out that the tech, lead engine tech, shop foreman, and GM think that the oil pump is the culprit since the seal at the pump and pickup tube was 'good'...so its getting a new oil pump. oh well, its only money LOL edit: I would rather spend the money now rather than toasting my engine later, even if the pump may not be 'bad'
  8. Brought it to the shop today. Hopefully they come up with the same explanation to my oil pressure issues, the low pressure when cold that gradually increases with oil temperature just seems to make this repair make sense. I'll gladly pay 3 hours of labor for the fix to save me the headache of dropping the pan. If they want me to replace the oil pump for some reason...I won't be very happy LOL. At least my loaner 2013 GMC 1500 truck with 800 miles on it is freaking sweet!
  9. Damn, 3 hours isn't bad at all. Probably would take me at least 3 times that to get the job done assuming nothing went wrong! Whaddya have access to? Alldata or something like that? I wish I could still access alldata. Would be amazing.
  10. Man that looks like a whorish job. What's the book time if I were to have a shop do it?
  11. Hello all, 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 L33 5.3 with 208k miles. I did some research, and found that my oil pickup tube o-ring is most likely causing my oil pressure 'issues' The 'issue' is that in the morning during the first start up of the day, the oil pressure registers low enough to trigger the low oil pressure warning. At idle in PARK it will usually stabilize (when cold) between 5 and 20 psi, but it will drop below that when idling in DRIVE as well, during the first few minutes of operation. Asthe engine warms up, the oil pressure increases, and generally driving down the road when cold it reads 20 psi, when warm its 30-35 psi. Like I said, I believe the culprit is the pickup tube o-ring. My question is, what is involved in dropping the oil pan to replace this $5 part? Do I HAVE to remove the front diff and everything associated with it?
  12. I think I found the root cause too. I assume this gives the computer the position of the actuator. Cool!
  13. SUCCESS! My drivers side climate control works again Ended up removing both front seats to move the console because I couldn't get to two of the console bracket screws. Much easier to remove the seats anyways, and it gives an opportunity to clean up all the crap that falls down there over time. The previous owner must have really liked Corn Nuts Anyways, here's to hoping I don't have to do the passenger side actuator anytime soon.
  14. yeah I know. I am dreading the day that happens. Ideally, it won't.
  15. Yes. Youtube FTW. I had no idea it was that easy to replace it until I saw that video.
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