Jump to content

efritz

Member
  • Posts

    303
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Minnesota
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2001 suburban-310K, 2002 2500HD CCSB, 2003 Tahoe

Recent Profile Visitors

5,803 profile views

efritz's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (5/11)

69

Reputation

  1. you just need to add a diode from the current carrying side of the DRL relay (also, and separately) from current carrying of the headlight dim relay to the coil side of the fog relay. you can easily do it from the top of the underhood fuse panel by inserting the ends of the diodes in the relay terminals. I've done it twice.
  2. You will hate yourself by the end of the decision to swap... Just enjoy the fact that you don't have to worry about window motors and lock actuators failing. You basically have to install all new wiring harnesses, BCM, and panels thru out the truck...
  3. The head almost never has to come off, even for the rear ones. If you clean the top of the remaining bolt really well, get a good MIG welder, and make an "extension of the bolt" out of weld and then weld a nut on the end, then quickly cool the stud with an ice cube to shrink it a bit, then they back right out. I have done many of them with 100% success and no need to pull heads.
  4. Well, the only way to get them out is to try to get the remaining good ones backed out with the head of the bolt, then weld a nut on top of the ones that break off just below flush with the head. So, if he quoted you around 500 dollars i would say go for it. parts alone will be almost 100. plus all the welding work etc...
  5. Pull one of yours and see how many holes, then order the same ones if you have determined it as the cause. Did you check fuel pressure and the condition of your O2 sensors? These engines do not have common fuel injector issues, in my experience the p0300 code is often misdiagnosed, and the true cause is leaking intake manifold gaskets as the GM ones from 99-07 shrink over time and allow leaks causing mixture issues. As old school as this sounds, you can still pull the plugs after a hard bit of driving and see if one cylinder is grossly lean, tiny variances are not noticeable.
  6. Yeah rust doesn't happen in the winter... It happens in the summer as the salt absorbs moisture and sits wet on the metal.
  7. The bed is two pieces on these, and where they meet there is V shape above the wheel well in the sheet metal that is created. Salt and dirt collect here, stay moist, and rust the metal. There are three washout plugs on the upper backside of the rear fender just above the upper lip. Pull them out and flush with lots of high pressure water a couple times a year, especially in the spring. If you have rear wheel well liners (i.e. rust collectors) remove them and throw them away and then you can get at these plugs, otherwise they will be hidden. there are also a bunch of these plugs on the backside of the rocker panels, for your flushing convenience. Do this and the sheet metal will last twice as long, I do.
  8. I would pull your 1-2 accumulator to see if it is cracked, it's easy to do in the pan, when one cracks, you get a slipping 1-2. Also see if the Vette servo helps, it may allow for more apply pressure. More than likely the 2-4 band is toast, along with the reverse drum. If you just want to limp a few more months, dump a couple bottles of lucas trans fix in and keep limping it along, but it's probably toast.
  9. well, a horn is designed to work intermittently, if it were on whenever the truck was on that would be annoying. I'm of no real help, just wanted to be a jacka**.
  10. I've got 250k on the burban and it has seen more and done more than a semi and baja truck combined over those miles, all original drivetrain. Just normal replacement stuff like u joints and fuel pumps, etc.
  11. I missed the 2wd part... that makes your plan more viable as there is no cv worries. It is however a better idea to go with one that relocates and braces the front end to compensate for the added height.
  12. Save your money and get a good lift... Those kits just damage the front end and handle terribly. The type of kit you are looking at just cranks the angles really far and damages CV's and ball joints as the front differential and suspension components stay mounted high while you drop the wheel. Get one that drops the front diff, was new spindles and relocates control arms. Like the rough country 5 inch. You will be happy in the long run even though it cost more.
  13. I accidentally bought a lower temp stat and it did that. The only possible negative effect would be very slightly lower mileage as temps would be lower. You really need to get a scantool that can read live data to make sure the gauge isn't inaccurate.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.