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Friz2

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About Friz2

  • Birthday 06/15/1964

Profile Information

  • Name
    Dan Frisbie
  • Location
    NW Florida
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2015 1500 Silverado, 2010 Yukon Denali, 1995 3500 Silverado CC, 2014 Indian Chieftain

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  1. I'm not here very often, either, so if we keep up this back and forth, it will be a long thread...If the 6 has parts tumbling around inside, there is likely more damage than you will be able to see. With all the running motors available, I'd scrap it. It would be a shame to spend money rebuilding to find out later that you have a crack in the block, crank, or main journal. Anyhow, I'm not sure if the I6 and V8 clutch are the same. I haven't spent much time with GM I6 motors. The manual tranny will be fine (3 speed?). The rear end will work fine, but as I said before, you are going to run some high RPMs.
  2. Unless you really want to go high tech/high horsepower, you are in luck. Just about everything from the 1960s and 70s will bolt right on. A small block with a carburetor and a TH-400 or TH-350 will slide right in. Upgrade to a HEI ignition and even a bolt on TBI if you want and it can be pretty trouble free. Your rear gear is likely a 3.90:1 due to the 6 cylinder. If you look around, you can find a similar year with coil springs and a V-8 that will have a 3.23 or 3.08 rear. It will bolt right up. The TH-350 should be the same length as your 3 sod, so the driveshaft will fit. The yoke(fwd joint) on the drive shaft will need to be changed to match the auto. A disc brake/power steering front clip from a similar body style and on into the mid 70s will bolt right in. I did this with a 1966, so I'm not tossing out BS. I put the motor, tranny, and front clip from a 1976 van on my '66. It was all done on the cheap, at my house. I did have a lot of contacts for parts as I was heavy into dirt track cars at the time, so parts were plentiful and cheap from my racing buds. It really depends on how hard you're willing to look and work.
  3. The front axle actuator is thermal and they do go bad. If the Xfer case is engaging, the front drive shaft should spin in 2wd and be fixed in 4wd if you are under the truck trying to spin it while the truck is stationary. I'm trying to remember way back when the actuator went bad on my '95. I do believe that the 4x4 light would not come on when the actuator was bad.
  4. The truck uses the same frame and brakes no matter what engine comes out of the factory. Front springs are probably a little stiffer for the extra weight of the V8. With a 6 cylinder, you probably have a 4.10 or 3.90 rear gear. That 454 is going to turn a lot of rpms, but it will get there quickly. Fortunately, there are literally hundreds of those rear ends lying around with just about every gear ratio imaginable. Back in the late '80s, I had a 1965 C10 with a 4:10 rear gear. I put a 350/350 combo in it and found a rear end out of an early 70s truck with aa 3:08 gear. They were both trailing arm rear suspensions, so the new rear end assembly bolted right in. I did have to fab a new sway bar due to a different mounting point, but that was pretty easy. If you can't find another trailing arm rear end, the center section can be swapped easily, you just have to shim the gear lash between the ring and pinion. The 4 wheel drum brakes suck. I put a front clip from a mid '70s Chevy van in mine. It bolted right in with disc brakes and power steering. GM vehicles are so easy. There is really very little that is different in models and years, providing you stick with the same general size of vehicle. On the other hand, if you rebuild the 6, you are going to want more power. Chevy I-6 motors were never known for power, but they are very dependable. You have a fun project ahead of you if you go with the big motor. If you're willing to search and work, it can be done very cheaply.
  5. Is the problem physically getting the lever into the 4hi or 4lo position or is 4wd not engaging in the front hubs?
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