colton_m

The pictured switch set is not an off-the-shelf item. You have to buy part #23145202 and #23145158, then take them apart and combine them together. I just went to my GM dealers parts department and ordered both.

Nice work man, any 30" seems to work just perfect mounting to those angled supports. The height below the GMC emblem is spot on. It really is quite satisfying when you dont have to drill into the truck. No going back if you mess up the height haha. Now I think I need a curved light too. My standard single row isn't cool anymore lol. Anyone reading this that's interested in those mounts feel free to shoot me a PM. I just made another batch.

Be sure and snap some pics of the install, have to show off the sweet mounting hardware!

As far as I am aware there is only one "upfitter switch" which has 4AUX toggles. Those other part numbers just cover all the other variations of switch banks that control OEM truck options. Below is a picture of what it looks like once you combine part #23145202 with #23145158 (upfitter). I've been working on this for a long time and it's very difficult. Each switch does not have its own wires, rather they push buttons that are mounted on a circuit board inside the thing. If you look through my other thread it explains what I'm trying to do, I just haven't finished the project yet because it's so annoying. AUX1 used to be "Lane departure warning" AUX2 used to be "Exhaust brake" I'm going to try using the signal from those two systems to trigger relays for the lights. Here's where I'm at so far - two switch sets mixed together:

This is slow going, but here's some progress:

I have no rubbing at all. The level is actually 1.5"

2014 Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L Crew Cab 6.5' Box Tungsten Metallic 1.5" Level and BFG All Terrain KO2's 285/65-18

That's why I went with 1.5 level. The back still sits about 1/2" high, which looks level at a glance. Add about 600lbs to the bed, aka camping gear or ATV and it levels perfectly.

I have a 1.5" levelling kit, but it appears that these would fit just fine without it. Pics coming, weather is crap haha.

So far only 250km on them. I haven't noticed any vibrations so I guess the balance is good. Road noise is the same as stock IMO. At the tire shop they did tell me that these larger types of tires are harder to balance and that they would do it again for free if I noticed any problems. So far I've noticed the truck rides a lot smoother than stock when going over bumps. I'm running 36psi. Update - I've added pics to my uoiginal post

I added some new tires: BFG All Terrain KO2's 285/65-18 on stock rims I got 5 and another stock rim, going to rotate in the spare. So far they're real nice:

Hey guys, I've been busy, here's what I've done so far: Only the work trucks with a certain RPO code come with the 4 extra relays in the fuse box to run the AUX switches in a plug-and-play fashion. We can't even add the relays ourselves because without that RPO code our trucks dont even have the terminals to plug the relays into. Just useless empty slots in the fuse box. That being said, it's not what I was originally trying to do anyways. I've got an LTZ with a bunch of options already controlled with switches, so replacing all my switches with the AUX switchbank isn't an option or I'd lose my pedal adjust, hill descent control, parking sensors etc. I ordered the switch bank pictured below AND the AUX switch bank everyones been talking about. The AUX ones are back ordered, but when they show up I am going to take the plastic toggle that says AUX1 and AUX2 and put them in place of the Lane departure warning and the exhaust brake buttons below. After that, I have looked up what pins on the circuit board give a LDW and exhaust brake signal. I'm going to solder on there and control my own relays that will turn on my light bar and my backup lights. I just havent done it yet because the AUX switch bank is out of stock apparently and I don't want to take my dash apart multiple times. LDW and Exhaust Brake will become AUX1&2 - then some custom wiring:

On the LT trucks you would have a reflector housing, in that case it doesn't really matter what side of the bulb that pillar is on. It's reflecting light everywhere so no shadow haha. Is $30 for real? lol. The stuff I need is $185 + $10 shipping + duty and exchange rate... So about $250, damn bright though, I'll never change back

After a few nights of driving I discovered that I have two shadows in my beam pattern leading from the front of the truck up to the cut-off line (on both bulbs). I spoke with TRS about this, it's because the Silverado projector needs the "XB35" brand bulbs. The difference is the post that runs the length of the bulb outside the glass is on the opposite side so it doesn't create a shadow. Grinding down the longer tab on a standard H11 bulb and rotating it will solve the problem too. At any rate I ordered a set of XB35 H11 bulbs and a capacitor link, I'm going to try them both out and report back. I don't like to assume but it's looking like the best HID combo for an OEM silverado projector is going to be: HD Relay Harness + Capacitor Link + XB35 H11 bulbs, oh and the 50watt ballast is sweet

Turns out I was wrong, see my edited post above for details. I am now running one canbus between the OEM light signal and my relay. OEM signal > Canbus > HD Relay > HID Bulbs Running good! Again lol