Bobber

I have a Century High-C cap from my 2104 mid-length bed that is sitting at Jerry's Camping Center in Madison, WI just waiting for a new owner to come buy it. It is silver. Sorry this isn't the best picture of it. But you can get all the info you need from Century Cap's website

Here is a link to the power-folding mirror update...

I agree with everyone else... I have a thread out there about my Tekonsha P3 install for the same reason. Of which I'm still trying to sell, now that I own a 2019 which has the integrated brake controller. If your dash as the upper left 'coin pocket' above the 2W/4W drive/range selector... then take a look at my post: (The Bed Rug and Camper Shell are sold already).

You should be able to when in park, but not in gear without a “video in gear lock-pick”.

Go to gmbodybuilder.com and pull the circuit info from there. There were sealed terminals in the under-bed junction box on my ‘14 for brake and bed lights (if you don’t have the factory bed lights -which I did). I would assume they did the same on the ‘17. You just need to buy the correct terminals and seals (avail on amazon) and a terminal tool to remove any terminals (if you want to dbl up any existing wires).

Can anyone else comment on similarities or differences between 2014 and 2015? I know the body didn't change much except maybe trim and headlamps; and the dash looks the same. Powetrains are all the same... I doubt too much changed electrically until the 2016 (I think) with WiFi Hotspot, wireless phone charging, and stuff like that... So it would probably depend on how optioned your truck is as to whether it would do you well as a complete reference, or be missing key content for ya if you had a 2016+.

Can a moderator move this to For Sale for me? Thanks!

2014 only. I don’t know how similar 2015’s are. But the book set states 2014 on each cover.

Haven't posted on here a whole lot, particularly in the last couple of years - just been driving the heck out my truck! With 163k on it and the transmission starting to act the way it did prior to having it replaced under extended warranty (@109kin Oct 2017), I decided that I should get out of it before it cost me the nearly $5k that the dealer would have charged without the warranty. So, I'm now a proud owner of a 2019+ (new 2020 body)... Most everything else (feature-wise) is the same (as I really liked the last truck, all things considered). I'll post content about the new one in the new (2019-2020) forum section... (For those that want to know about residual value on my 2014... They gave me $14,153 for my truck, which for this dealership is a "purchase/buy back" or "trade" value; they would buy for that price regardless of taking on trade or not for a another/new vehicle). He considered my truck to be in Very Good condition; actually commented about how clean it looked inside and out which surprised me. And, I am not one of those OCD types that keeps my truck spotless... - no disrespect intended if you are one of those folks -- just saying that I didn't even wash it to remove the bugs from my last trip to the UP, one week prior; let alone spend any time making it 'pretty' before taking it in to look for a replacement! But, I did pull a few things off the truck before trading it in, and have other item(s) I won't need anymore: I have the Helms Manuals for 2014 that I no longer need (and want to get the 2019 set when they come available). It represents about 30# of paper, and I wouldn't even begin to estimate how much time it saved me. (just wish it as a pdf with links to related tasks!) I also have the Tekonsha P3 Trailer Brake Controller and left IP panel (the headlight & transfer case switch panel, see pic below) available with the P3 harness for direct plug-in. You can find my posts with pictures related to the install here: The P3 was ~$135 and the replacement IP cover was $25... So, if I can get $110 (+actual shipping costs) for the pair I'd be ok with that. (My new truck has a built in Trailer Brake Controller) My Truxedo Tonneautrax is also for sale, and is no longer available from Truxedo - apparently they can't source the side rails anymore... I used the adjustable tie-down points that are part of that system (250# rating per point) a few times since they sit higher than the ones in the bed and can be moved anywhere along the length; but the tonneau hasn't been installed for a few years now. I'll need to get the tonneau cleaned up and new pictures taken of it (for anyone interested). It has been sitting in the garage... (I hadn't removed the Century Cap (Hi-C) for the last 3 summers - until two weeks ago for trade-in). I know new Truxedo tonneaus are almost $500... and everyone worries about "old vinyl" due to UV, so used ones don't usually garner anything close to new prices. This one not having been installed for several years (and sitting in the back corner of the garage); and having been treated with conditioner before I stored it... I'd think it would be a good unit to own; especially with the added features of the adjustable load-points that you can't get anymore. I'm open to discuss offers. I have a BedRug, TGC07 (for '07+ GMT900 thru early 2019 K2XX Std Bed). It was mostly camped in/on, very little usage with any real loads other than lumber... and a snowblower & lawn mower a few times each. I'll post up some better pix to anyone interested, this pic was taken right after I pulled it out (I need to vacuum/pressure wash it). As stated above, I had my Century Cap installed on the truck for most of the truck's life, or the tonneau installed; so this was "under cover" all of it's life. I'd like to get close to $300 for it... BedRug still charges the same price for these as they do the newest ones ($439; both are available on Amazon for $390). Bedrug provides replacement velcro; but I didn't use most of the velcro attachments points (the 2014 had a Line-X liner as well); so there is a lot of velcro still useable. The full width velcro (hook) piece at the top of the tailgate is really the only "truck-side" piece that I can't include with the set. The new (2019) truck bed is actually 1 or 2" longer, the bed rails are further apart (tail gate width), and floor of the bed is wider (for 2019+ they pushed the inner walls of the fenders out by about 3" on each side and narrowed the width of the top rail of the bed). The Century Cap (Hi-C) I had on the 2014 is getting traded for the new one that's unique to the '19/'20; just waiting for it to come in. But, if you live in the Madison, WI area and want a really nice camper shell (~39" opening height from bed rug to top of rear window glass, its about 6" taller than the cab)... Stop into Jerry's Camper Service and tell Dan I sent you...

Here is my 2014 CC LT with the black OEM boards before I put the Century Cap on it.

I have the Power Stop Z23's (K2069/K2083) on mine - have had for about 1.3yrs and ~25k miles (which surprises me now as I think how many miles I had been putting on in previous years!) I posted a thread about mine back when I did the swap. The truck had, (IIRC without going back to my thread), ~110k miles on the OE brakes when they finally started to warp bad enough for me to want to swap them. I would have been quite happy if I could get true OE rotors and pads as replacements after that kind of life on the first set. But, I went with these for a variety of reasons listed in my thread and at this point am quite happy with them. I don't have the 110k+ on them yet so I don't know if they will go as far... but they sure do look nicer (more to do with the anti-corrosion coating that is applied) after a WI/UP-MI winter. If the Z36's are a "high ceramic content version" I don't know if I'd like them as much since I hear a lot of guys with squeakers/squealers when they try to use race-bred brake materials on the street. But, obviously, I don't push my brakes THAT hard...

Hit 103k last night... basic maintenance and recall stuff; you can find my "history" on this site so I won't retype it here. All in all, I'm quite happy with the truck...I've gotten as high as 25.4mpg in 25miles, 22+ in 50, and 20+ in 400... so I'm happy with that... wouldn't mind even better though (read below) A few things I wish i could resolve without spending money: The clicking/shifty drivers seat - I've just lived with it since the dealer couldn't/wouldn't fix it. It spends less time in V4 mode now than it used to on the same daily route - I think this is why I'm not as good on mpg as I used to be (previously, my best 25 mile stint was something over 26mpg before the battery died. I'd discussed this in another thread as well). I feel like it is down on power/torque slightly compared to when it was newer. Trans shifting/Throttle response - hunts gears sometimes, or just can't seem to "pick one gear down" when I give it a little gas... jumps down two instead of one, then upshifts again within 5 secs. (may have to go the way Gone Fishing did with a tune - but only if I can keep the V4 mode!) Trans/Engine can be "lurchy" sometimes when coming to a stop or when trying to pull away from a stop.... driveline clunks, rpm stumbles and recovers (drops below 500rpm), won't launch for a split second... They showed me a bulletin that indicates that the transmission is "in transition" and commands "zero torque" from the engine until it is finished downshifting. I've wondered if it was TPS related, or if I have torque convertor clutches acting up... At least I'm on record complaining about it (prior to 100k miles)... so if something happens in the near future mileage-wise, I can argue it for coverage. More power when pulling my enclosed trailer (as I've mentioned above, and mentioned in other threads regarding my rear axle ratio choice..) Oil consumption/loss (same as Gone Fishing stated) Oil Leak - leaves a few drops a day - haven't looked into where it's coming from.... may force the dealer to evaluate it since they just changed the oil. A "harmonic" oscillation/sound at ~58mph that is likely in the exhaust - so I just drive faster Plugging an iPod into the USB in the center console storage bay results in the MyLink and iPod locking up after a few tracks or so... The radio reboots, but I need to reboot the iPod manually, then it starts over like it was never connected - really sucks when listening to an Audible book. I've gone to using the headphone jack and Aux input instead; less integrated (need to control the iPod from the iPod instead of the dash - I know this is a "1st world problem", truly NBD,

I'd stick with the 3.73's if I were you... I certainly wish I had someone tell me this when I was buying mine; if I did mine all over again I wouldn't go with the 3.42's. One thing that everyone talking here/now (about fuel economy and higher numerical ratios) seems to forget about is the AFM system... I certainly hadn't really taken it into account when I bought mine. I was thinking, just like everyone else, that lower rpm is better - especially with all of the highway miles I drive. Sure 200rpm faster consumes more fuel - but ONLY if you are thinking V8 vs V8. If you can get the similar torque from the engine in V4 mode (when spinning 200rpm faster) as you get from the V8 mode 200rpm less, then you can operate in V4 mode instead of V8 - and that is where the fuel savings comes from. Tthe axle ratio would actually help by putting the rpm at a point where torque is high enough in V4 mode to maintain cruise without bumping out of AFM (back to V8 mode) at the slightest grade or headwind buffet. The longer you can spend in V4 (AFM) mode, the better your fuel economy will be. And I've pulled my 4000# 7x16 enclosed (7' rear door / 9' OAH) V-Nose cargo trailer several times now... that trailer wasn't something I had (or even considered) when I bought the truck. It definitely would benefit from the 3.72 gearing when I'm trying to pull that much of a brick through the wind!

Maybe... until you need to use the manual lever on the P3 and end up banging your chin against the steering wheel while you try to reach under the dash to activate it... Or, you want to increase the boost level a little bit and have to go hunting for the buttons and to see the display. I for one don't like having my eyes and attention off the road that long. There is a reason that GM mounted the OE unit up high on the dash... You can call my install "hideous"... I don't care. But, it's installed where I can easily access it; and I use it several times a year. It sticks out as far as it does so that there isn't a long slot cut underneath it to accommodate the manual gain lever. My trailer is not loaded the same way every time (sometimes it's got my 1000# Ranger and other camping gear, other times it's nearly empty) and needs to have the boost level adjusted accordingly. And, sometimes I don't remember to adjust the boost level before departing after loading up the trailer... so the manual gain lever is handy at my first big braking event from highway speeds. Then, after I get stopped, I can easily bump the boost level up to my usual number/setting by reading the P3's display. If you decide to mount it under-dash... I'd suggest doing it as a temporary mount and use it a few times before you make it a permanent install.

Not quite, but close, to 92k on my '14 LT... Fluids changed at 70k IIRC; otherwise, normal scheduled maintenance only, (except for the various TSBs and Recalls, including the T-stat/radiator swap). Replaced the battery last Nov...just up and died one morning. My only complaints are that: - I seem to be down a little on power (and economy) compared to the past (before battery replacement), Spend less time in AFM (V4); and mid/upper-teens for mpg (used to have a 400 mi avg of 20.4; now it's 15.9). Hopefully it will come back up with the warmer weather. - When I connect my iPod via USB, it oftentimes crashes the MyLink/radio computer causing a reboot (and locks up the iPod). Which means it goes back to first track in my music list (after everything finishes rebooting). If I plug in using the headphone jack to aux input, everything works fine. (Which means iPod integration is non-existent, so I lose dash control of the iPod). - HD radio range sucks... seems like it is constantly trying to re-acquire HD signal. Have occasionally pulled a 7x16 (9' tall) enclosed v-nose trailer with my Polaris Ranger and hunting/ice-fishing gear inside (maybe 4800 GTW). (Maybe 4 trips per year). If I had it to do all over again, I'd have stuck with the recommended axle ratio.