KMK454

It's difficult... basically like a black truck.

You're right, I fixed my typos!

Out and about on new tires with a fresh wash. Debating on leaving it be or somehow leveling it... either up 1" in the front or 1" drop shackles. And maybe remove that Z71 sticker...

I agree!

Thanks! I think they ride better due to having more sidewall; I only noticed a slight increase in noise and humming when I have the windows down at higher speed, but with the windows up I haven't heard any new noise. They're nice tires.

35x11.50r20s on a stock 2500HD. No lift, no level.

A flat Good Year Wrangler SR-A set the tire shopping in motion, and a 10% off sale on Nittos convinced me to try the 35x11.50r20 Ridge Grapplers. My goal was to get as much tire as possible without having to adjust the suspension so as to retain the stock ride, keep costs down, and achieve the aesthetic I like for modern 4x4 trucks. I was prepared to crank the front keys a few turns for up to 1" of leveling, but my preference was to avoid this if possible. Ridge grapplers have two sidewall designs on the tire; one side reminded me of Transformers, so I went with the more subdued sidewall. This doesn't impact fitment. After about 20 miles of driving and some parking lot testing turning the steering back and forth, the tires fit fine with only a few close spots throughout the range of motion. I've seen people report frame rub at full lock with these sizes; it hasn't happened to my truck yet, but I wouldn't be surprised if it rubs mildly while turning sharply over rough terrain. Rear clearance is fine. A few tips: Check the actual dimensions of the tire you're choosing. The Nittos are 35s, but the actual diameter is about 34.7". Each manufacturer is a little different, and most list the true dimensions on their websites. The same applies to metric sizes - a BFG may be narrower than a Toyo. Looking at my truck, 35x12.50r20 would have fit too, but would probably rub on the wheel wells while going over bumps during a turn. The 11.50s provide just enough extra room that my truck has yet to rub, though my mileage count is low (20 miles since install) so I'll update this thread as I add miles. Expect to lose fuel economy. No data yet, but I anticipate a 1-2 MPG drop. Aftermarket wheels change everything. The popular offset or "poking" look makes it harder to stuff big tires without a lift. If you're changing wheels and tires, disregard this thread. What's next? Fresh oil, a detail, and maybe a front window tint. I'd like a Corsa, but they're $$$. Please excuse the dirty truck:

Just did the 35x11.50r20 on my stock, no level, no cranked keys 2015 2500HD. They fit! Thanks for this thread, it definitely helped.

Looks cool. I've read that this exhaust is actually narrower (2.5") than the stock (3") - was that true, or is this bad info?

Are these 275/65/20 BFG KO2s?

I have the same color on my 2015 - I thought it was one year only, though. Your truck is a 2019? I don't see it on Chevy's website. I'd love to see them continue it, though, because Rainforest Green Metallic is awesome.

Nice looking truck, Bob! What brand and specs are the wheels? What size BFGs?

Gas 1500 vs gas 2500 is more about suspension and brakes. The 5.3 and 6.2 1500 motors are very strong, especially with the appropriate gearing. But there's a thing people forget: payload. I took my 6.0 2500 over the Eisenhower pass with about 7500lbs in tow, another 1000lbs in the bed, and my entire family in the cab. From a payload perspective, that would be over the 1500's rating (but interestingly not its tow rating). The truck was comfortable and fine up and down hill. Yes, passenger cars cut me off requiring me to apply lots of throttle and force downshifts for some high-RPM driving to regain traffic speed, but it wasn't crazy - as mentioned above, gas motors use RPMs more than diesels. Is the diesel better? It depends. It has more power, better gas mileage, and more capability. It's also far more expensive and, partly due to modern emissions equipment, is more complicated than a traditional gas motor. The diesel gas mileage will help costs at the pump, but you will have to drive a LOT to recoup the initial investment of buying the diesel. If you're not constantly driving and towing and amassing tons of miles, the math doesn't work out. You probably don't need it... but if you want it, that's different. And if you want to do a cool build that blows up the internet, you better have a diesel. If I was buying a new diesel, I'm not sure I'd get an L5P; I'd either go used 15-16 LML or look at Ford. The Silverado HD now appears on consumer reports least reliable vehicles and my guess is it's because of the 2017+ L5P. The L5P facebook page I follow has post after post after post regarding drive train issues. But who knows how much stock to put in this... https://www.autoblog.com/photos/the-five-least-reliable-cars/#slide-7456212

It's hard to get a single answer on this. I've seen people say max is 275/65r20. Then I've seen people say they've stuffed 35x11.50 or even 35x12.50 on a stock truck over at the duramaxforum, with pictures. Then there are guys that try those setups and say they had rubbing or had to crank keys a few turns. Some say they had to cut things. There's also a good post on the duramaxforum that talks about how none of these trucks sit at the same height when factory new. I called a few truck shops and they all said the forum guys with cranked keys and big tires have lousy ride, excess rub, and have to cut fenders. Oh, and their CV joins will explode in 5k miles. They then said I needed a $5k installed 4" to 6" suspension lift to do 34s - or if i feel like cutting, 35s - or a $1k leveling kit to run fat 33s. Lots of conflicting information.