J-Jeezy

I know this is an old post but did you ever find the solution to your problem?

7.5" RCX lift OEM 20s Mud claw 35x12.5x20 Going to work next on painting up a backing plate to go behind the RCX logo to give it a subtle pop.

yeah as far as these, if ANZOs and spyder use the same projector then a mini will not bolt straight in. I ended up scanning the bolt pattern of the existing projector as well as the new one so that i can get a few adapter plates cutout. I was able to test using a mini because its what i had readily available. Im sure that i could squeeze in a FXR with 2.5" lense but then again i never had a good experience with FXRs and there solenoid/bulb issues.

As much as I'd want to fxr is a "slight bolt in" for the oem version of these headlights. I know being a retrofitted that's something I'd have to make work. But for right now, is like to gauge this as a starting point to see how t ends up.

going to crack open my auto dynasty LTZ reps today. Going to stuff them with some mini h1 7.0s, 5000k bulbs, and anti-flicker h1 harness. Potentially end up doing some paintwork aswell while im in there. Ps. Anyone good with photoshop? I wanna paint the shroud around the lenses chrome/anodized red and the () in the high beam / low beam area gunmetal grey.

Goodluck on the wait. Hopefully the product your purchased isnt on backorder. Alot of them are. I know its not there fault but i waited almost a whole month to recieve my last order.

Just a simple color match here. Next is getting the chrome around the bowtie wrapped in red chrome.

Cant wait to order my LTZ replacements and throw some real projectors in there. Still debating on the color scheme for the truck. I minimalistically have hues of red going around (Z71 badges, clearance lights, FD sticker,). What do yall think?

Late post. But did anyone find a replacement screw? Body shop that had my truck backed out the screw too far and lost it :/. Im looking on gmpartsdirect and cant seem to find a part number or thread pitch for the bolt.

Finally got my exhaust on. 2.25" piping from the cats back to a flowmaster 2.5 x-pipe, piped to a flowmaster dual in-out muffler, then piped off passed the tires at a 90.

if i can find my old pics ill post them. there is 2 level you can go to, to achieve this mod. some people will bore out the bottom of there air box opening inorder to allow more air flow. Other people will actually go ahead and modify the fender cowl and open that up a little bit more to accomodate for more air into the box. The plastic induction tubing and plenum act as a strong noise supressor for the intake, and dont allow as much of it to be heard in or out of cabin.

Couldn't the same thing be accomplished by just turning the knob one click over to the right?

i have the under cover flex, i purchased it in combination with the pop-n-lock tailgate lock and amp research hd max bed extender. All three work together well as a storage, cargo management system. Only thing i thought was a pain in the rear was how much went into aliging the flex the right way. if pushed to far off to one side, the slam latches would work on one side and wouldnt latch onto the other. I was reading on a few other various forums and saw where people would use washers as shims to space the rails slightly further inwards to allow to latches to slam better, anyone else have any experience with this?

Good ole oven cleaner trick for removing chrime from plastics.

They looks good. Just a tad too wide to be raptor style IMO.