hardloaf

Man, thanks! I'll do this ASAP. Assuming that amp is in the back - are these rear floor panels on both sides? Picture would be nice for some of us

Couldn't agree more on that POS Bose sub. The sad part is that I actually like rest of the system. Not a big fan of Bose, but this one actually sounds really nice to me and would be perfect if they wouldn't cheap it out with that stupid buzzer which they call "subwoofer". Anyway since I also have that Kicker sub installed I'd like to clarify what settings you ended-up with. All switches up and EQ is flat except slight bass boost? Is that correct? I tried that and this is way too much for me. If you manage to balance the whole system out please let us know. I also thought about disconnecting that Bose sub completely, but don't have enough knowledge to balance the system after, so would be interesting to know how you do it.

OBD II is the best option of them all - cam knows exactly when engine is on, so it can drain as much power as it needs. Everything else - go to parking mode, i.e. low power drain. OBD II also can provide enough power on its own and it works same way in all vehicles. That kit should work fine in any car, actually. With that engine start/stop tech they have a twist now - engine off doesn't always mean that you are parking, so they have a delay for about 3 minutes before going to power saving. Most of vendors just occupy the port permanently and even have on/off switch on the plug, but I don't like that. That harness is much cleaner and gives you OBD II port back, so we can use it as originally intended without unplugging anything. As long as it works it's fine, but with OBD weird stuff may happen, so I hope GM actually did some review and testing before giving it part number. Other options would be fuse box tap (no hanging wires and doesn't really know when engine is running) or cabin 12v/USB ports, but that usually means hanging wires and same problem with engine state.

Thinkware is a Korean well established brand, conservative and reliable. Korean dash cams are more expensive in general. $400 for top of the line full HD dual cam kit with hardwire harness is a decent price, I wouldn't pay GM $500 MSRP for it. By giving it part number GM made this choice easy for me. This is the range for such setup with real parking mode which is very tricky to do right so it's actually useful, lasts long enough and doesn't drain your battery to death. If you don't want such parking mode price should be below $200.

I've got it, $400 online. Easy to install, comes with pass-through OBD II harness (so it doesn't occupy OBD II port), seems to be working well. Comes with 32GB card, too small - got 128GB Samsung Endurance (you'll need endurance, regular sd card may not last long). People say 256GB should also work. For two cams it needs 160MB per minute. Video quality is ok, nowhere close to gopro or something like this, but not bad either. Parking mode also seems to be working. Didn't try ADAS - don't care and actually don't want it to make any sounds or signals and usually it's like that. One thing - glare from windshield is very strong, you'll need CPL filter for front cam at least. Rear seems to be ok without. I've ordered one for $20 on Amazon, will try it tomorrow. Should help.

Yep, no need to trim anything.

I had Elite for over 4 years. Very dependable, well-made and not a drop got through over that time, but looks kind of meh. Now I have MX4. Looks way better, but it's not waterproof and can't be due to construction - some water gets inside. Not much, but enough to notice. Also it doesn't look like anybody took pride in making them - metal shavings, rough edges everywhere and overall workmanship is not impressive for the price. I went with MX4 this time because after Elite I know that unrestrained access to the full bed length is more important for me. If fold-a-cover would make a cover of the same style as MX4 I'd go with them though.

I've installed that CXARC knob with mounting tape under my seat. This thingy really helps - no need to mess with switches, so I restored them to factory defaults. GM should've included it in the kit!

I've uploaded video to youtube - I think this works better than pictures. GM Sub, installed

I'll make pictures tomorrow. Here is PDF of the manual, BTW. 19417164 - 20190208_.pdf

I've just got the new one installed on my AT4. 4" Bose factory sub doesn't do it for me, so I ordered this one and had it installed in a shop. Took guys about 1.5 hour - not super easy. It looks well made, guys said it's a 10". $600 online with shipping. This sub comes with an amp mounted on a side. Amp looks bare, but if you unscrew it there are adjustment switches on the bottom and one plug next to harness. Kicker support says I can connect this knob there to adjust level: https://www.kicker.com/CXARC-Remote-Control-for-Kicker-46CX-Series-Amps Initially I hated the thing - it was so obnoxiously strong that I started to worry that paint will peal off the cab. Adjusting bass in the head unit EQ helps somewhat, but still not enough and affects sound in a bad way. Wrote email to Kicker and they told me how to adjust gain with those switches - this info is not present in the manual, for whatever reason. Switches 1,2,3 control it. No idea what other switches do and I wouldn't touch them. They also said that I can use that knob for fine tuning, so I'll also install it on Sunday and see how it works. Anyway now after changing gain with those switches it's a completely different thing - sounds really good, deep and not annoying, makes huge difference in all kinds of music. Love this thing!

Does anybody have those bed side storage boxes? Look a bit pricey, but I like the idea since the bed is wider now and they don't eat space in front. Looks like a good compromise to me.