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JimmyVal

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  • Name
    Jim
  • Location
    Shelton, CT
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2014 GMC Sierra Double 1500 Cab 4WD Z71 SLT

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  1. Yes I do. However it goes away after the first drive. I did put hose clamps on all connections as well as Teflon tape where the fittings enter the can. (I have the RX can). Before I did this, the smell was worse. but did eventually go away.
  2. GDI Tech - First thanks for the time you've spent sharing you knowledge on the DI process and the history of catch cans. I've learned quite a bit. I've had this site 'time out' on me during long posts I had prepared. What I do now is to use a good text editor and prepare my response, when it's long, in the editor. Then cut and paste into the dialog box on the website right after clicking the quote button so the site doesn't time out. I then can add any extra HTML related gestures after the paste pasted. If for some reason the text doesn't post, I still have it in the editor. Hope that helps!
  3. You replace a cam on the original lock with one provided by Pop-N-Lock. You continue to use the original key to manually lock and unlock the tailgate. I don't think you'll ever use it once the Pop-N-Lock is installed.
  4. Great. Good luck and post picture of the completed project!
  5. I leveled my truck using the RC kit. It will definitely be easier doing the job with 2 people. The actual spacer install under the front strut is simple enough after you have disassembled everything. The 2nd person helps when it comes time to compress the strut, that now has the new spacer under it, so you can catch the nuts on the bolts that secure he strut to the lower control arm. I tried using a jack to lift the lower arm, but it raised the hole truck. Instead I had a friend push down on the upper arm, compressing the strut enough so I could catch the nuts. I used the video shown on the RC website. Haven't been to the site in a while, but it was there at the time I did my truck (about a year ago).
  6. MJ, Where did you get the 5.3L sticker on the front of the Caddy engine cover? Or is it molded into the cover? That engine looks real nice. Good job! Thanks
  7. I just connected it like stock. The connector locked in place as you would expect.
  8. I think your truck is beautiful. Like the color . Does the color match antenna come from the factory that way? Good luck with it.
  9. I bought the same touch-up paint and it seems to match my 2014 pretty well. I agree that it's really difficult, and a lot of work to do correctly.
  10. The 3-9 positioning was recommended by the guys in this thread. XenonDepot doesn't mention it anywhere in the install instructions as I'm sure it's particular to our trucks. As far as adjusting goes, after I installed an RC 2 inch lift, and I had lots of people flashing their high beams at me, I decided to adjust the lights lower. I setup a white board in my garage, noted on the board where the top of the head light beam hit (cutoff line), while the lights were set to low beam. Using the easy to access adjustment screws, I lowered them 1 inch. The distance between the truck and the light board was about 7 feet. I did this when the 9011 lights where installed (replaced the factory 9012 bulbs), as at the time there was no other reliable alternative for more light. The result of the adjustment was no more pissed off people and an acceptable light pattern on the road. When I installed the first LED bulb, I checked to see the cutoff line on the white board I had used previously. It was exactly the same as it was after my initial adjustment. Replacing the other side yielded the same results. That's what I meant by checking the alignment. I'm hoping to check the LED's tonight. Didn't get a chance last night!
  11. I just completed the install of the XenonDepot 9012 LED headlight kit and the 5202 led fog lights on my 2014 SLT. I should have paid more attention to what you guys said about the color temp for the fog lights. I ordered the 6000k and they are too white. Oh well. Anyway, the install is like everyone has said, Plug And Play. The damn air box was the only hassle. Not really obvious how to remove it. in order to get to the passenger headlight. On my truck, in order to get the LED's positioned at 3 and 9 I had to mount the light with the power connector pointing down. Lot's of room in the lamp housing for the power pack for the LED's and the cooling mesh. I did one side, then checked headlight alignment to see if it caused any shift, and it was exactly where it should be. I'm very happy with the results. Haven't had it out at night yet so I can't say how well they work. Just looking at the light in my darkened garage, they look quite bright. So far I'm happy with them.
  12. I found the exact same thing with the axle strap nuts. I was shocked at how loose they were vs the torque specs quoted here. I set my wrench at 40 ft lbs and 3 out of 4 spun on the passenger side, all 4 on the drivers side. I had to revisit this thread to confirm the spec I thought I read here. I tightened the nuts to spec (78 ft lbs), and took the truck for a 75 mile ride. My issue has been a clunk while downshifting from 3rd to second and then accelerating while the tranny was in the process of downshifting (if that makes sense). I can say the issue in my case is gone. In fact the tranny shifting in general seemed smoother and it got to the point where I stopped thinking about the problem as nothing noticeable was happening. So far, my problem is gone. Thanks to all for bringing this issue to our attention.
  13. Sorry for the delay in responding... We've been away. I'll check them out. Thanks.
  14. Ron, Like the covers. Where did you get them? Thanks...
  15. Really does look great Mike... Nice job!
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