black-n-gold

It wasn't too bad. I was able to remove the tire and inner fender well and had all the room I needed. I removed the remaining bolts that held the manifold on, the spark plugs and pried the manifold down enough to center punch and drill out the center of the broken bolts and used an easy out to remove the bolts from the head. Bolted everything back up with new bolts, started it up and no more noise. about 3.5 hours of work... What fooled me was the noise only happened when the engine was cold and it went away after 15 seconds. You would think the noise would be there as long as the engine was running and got louder with acceleration. It sounded like lifters to me, lol Now lets see if BTR will give me a refund for the parts I ordered By the way, If you ever want to change the spark plugs I recommend doing it from the fender well, way easier that way at least for the gen v trucks.

While waiting for the back ordered parts from BTR due to the GM strike I took your advice and took a look at the bolts. F'ing 3 bolts are missing from the passenger side and exhaust is staining the heads on those ports with the missing bolts, so definitely leaking there. The bolts are broke off inside the head so I may have to pull the heads anyway. Thanks for the advice. Now I'm not sure the tick noise is from the exhaust leak or the lifters or both. I'm going to attempt to remove the fender well to access the broken bolts, then see if the noise stops.

going with stock profile cam that came in the kit

I'll keep y'all posted on how it goes. The lifters and head gasket are on backorder due to the GM strike but I think the strike was settled today. Hopefully I can get this fixed before more damage occurs.

Thanks man, You've been a great asset.

So, I'm about to get into the AFM delete. After it's done I will have to turn off the AFM with a tuner. The question is, will the tuner also disable the codes that are associated with the delete kit? Or will I have to sent out the ECU to have them disabled.

I've rebuilt plenty old school chevy V8's in my days, so I think I can tackle this job, however I wont have any time to dig into it until about 3 weeks. I'll baby it until then. Looks like it will almost be easier to pull the engine to do the work. Thanks for the replies and information.

Do you have a list of parts? Or maybe just trade it in, lol

Damn, that's what I was afraid of. AFM delete. Will installing a programmer to disable afm work or will I have to dig into the engine How much time do you think I have before more damage occurs

I have what sounds like some lifters ticking initially when truck is started after sitting for a while. It's a 2014 Silverado 5.3 with 112,000 mi. It just started making the noise a few days ago. It wasn't like it developed over time, it suddenly started making the noise as you can hear in the video, It last for about 15 seconds and goes away. Oil and filter changed regularly @7,000 mi intervals using mobile 1 full synthetic 0w-20. Any help would be appreciated.

Problem solved; when I removed the shaft the steering wheel must have been turned 360 deg. so I removed the shaft again and turned the wheel 1 whole turn and re assembled the shaft and no more stabilitrak error messages. lesson learned, lock that steering wheel down when working on steering parts. Thanks for those who replied

I thought it could be a wheel speed sensor, its just coincidental that it happened at the same time I worked on it. The steering wheel did turn while it was disconnected, it could be 360 deg out. Is there a way to reset it without disconnecting the shaft? I won't have another opportunity to look at it for about a week, but I'll get it scanned for the c codes. thanks.

I have a 2011 suburban. the motor mount on the drivers side needed to be changed. In order to change the mount I removed the steering shaft that connects the steering to the gear box. I marked the steering shaft so I can reinstall it the same way it came off. Everything went smooth changing the mount. After putting everything back together now I get a service stabilitrak , traction control off warning, also at low speeds the vehicle seems like the abs is activating randomly although I dont get any abs indicators on the dash. I dont have a scanner so I brought it to autozone th have it scanned and no codes were found. I tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes but the warnings come back. I'm thinking that the steering position may be slightly out of sync or I may have damaged the steering position sensor some kind of way. Any ideas what could be going on?

Just finished installation. Took me a little longer due to being very meticulous about routing the wiring harness. I used a different method of connecting the wires though. I routed my wires all the way to the engine compartment and went in through the large grommet under the brake booster. Then I connected the blue and green wire to the grey/green and brown/yellow coming from the x6 bcm connector(pink) just to the right of e-brake pedal. Pins 2 and 4 as per http://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/474/2014%20BBM%20Electrical%20section_10_18_2013_WIP.pdf page 155 and 156. What I did was skim a very small amount of wire insulation off and soldered the wires together. To me it seemed a lot easier then taking apart the door sill. edit: Oh yeah, 1 click of the remote unlocks the drivers door only, and 2 clicks unlocks the rest including the tailgate

Electrical and chassis manuals among other manuals http://www.gmupfitter.com/pdflists/view/34