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phydiux

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phydiux last won the day on January 6 2015

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    Michigan
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    Male
  • Drives
    2014 Silverado 1500

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  1. You are defeating the point of the relay. Upon turn signal input, the relay is cutting power to 87a by energizing the coil. If you have a diode going from 86 to 87a, then when the parking lamp input is on, the light won't blink because you're getting current from that instead. If you can manage to source enough current through the relay's coil in the first place - they aren't meant to do that. jakewake23: I like the setup. How are you dimming the parking lamp input?
  2. Have fun with that. It's not going to work how you think it's going to work.
  3. phydiux

    Random

  4. Mostly. What you're describing gives you running lights and turn signals, yes, but only when the running (parking) lamps are powered. When you don't have the parking lamps on, you won't have turn signals on either. The turn signals on the mirrors are also inverted from the rest of the turn signals on the truck. If you want them working even when your parking lamps are off, you would need to wire them like the XOR relay setup I posted in the first post in this thread.
  5. The controller doesn't fix a broken wiring harness. If your harness is wired as a 2015+ (with DQS mirrors) harness is wired for parking lamp voltage supply on pin 1, then the controller will modify the functionality of the clearance lamp to also operate as a turn signal. On JKStephens' truck, he has found that pin 1 on his mirror harness is the puddle lamp supply voltage - this was the same configuration my truck originally had. I had to run a wire from the parking lamp supply voltage to the puddle lamp supply voltage wire running to the tow mirrors. On other trucks, I have no idea if this wire is even populated on the door harness, but I think there are other threads on the forum that outline how/when you would need to update your truck's door harness to support these mirrors.
  6. On the 2015+ trucks with DQS mirrors from the factory, the yellow LEDs on the front of the mirror operate as clearance lamps. They only light up when the parking lamps are on. My controller takes a mirror that already functions in that manner and changes how these yellow LEDs operate. With the controller, they operate as clearance lamps like the factory would, but it also detects when your turn signal is on and flashes those lights in unison with your turn signals. That being said, I'm working with a manufacturer to supply me with the last parts I need to have a small batch of these made up. I will end up making about 25 sets of controllers for those who have shown interest. No definite timeline on that yet. I'll let you know when I know more. Thanks for your patience everyone!
  7. Hey Everyone, I'm still working on what I need to do to make these available to those who have expressed interest in them. There are some non-technical challenges that need to be overcome, some of those being where/how I can sell them and whether I am able to source a supplier of one item in order to make these available in plug-and-play form, which is what everyone wants. Yes, I know I can just accept Paypal, but it's more complicated than that and I'll just leave it at that. And, if I can find a cable assembly supplier for a small run of part of what makes these a great thing to have, everyone will be happier about it, price and effort-wise. I do have a small batch of boards (some of them in the previous photos posted) that I have assembled and tested but they aren't quite completed yet. Anyway, once I have those issues ironed out, I will let everyone know. There are a number of people who are excited about these, and I understand that, but they are simply on the verge of not-commercially-viable, so just hold tight because I'm trying to make them that way on some level that's sustainable. Seriously, they dim a light and they're going to cost >$75 for a set at this point in time. Most people would think that's insane to pay that for what they do. I didn't, and I'm glad you don't, but I'm trying to make these as cost-effective as I reasonably can. @Duramaxxx: I think there's an temperature sensor in the passenger mirror that's used in the diesel trucks as a signal to the engine computer for information regarding ambient temperature. You may have an issue with the sensor, or with the plug on the mirror harness or something along those lines that is causing your CEL. There are other threads on here about that you may be able to find; I don't have any of them off the top of my head.
  8. I don't know when to leave well enough alone. My original boards required external diodes because they had a dedicated power input for the LED array. What does that mean? Well, I made a slight revision to the board, and then sent the design out to be fabbed up. And even though it has more components on-board, My new board is even smaller than the last one. I also had a few of them made: And I commenced testing. The original boards with their external diodes were diode-limited to be able to support ~1A of power running through them. The LED array on the tow mirrors uses 125mA according to my multi-meter, so this is more than adequate, but the new boards are good for 2.5A continuous without a problem, which is a nice increase in capability over the old ones. And, of course, I had to make a smaller harness for it, too: Compared to the originals: I also updated the software on the controller to increase the frequency of the PWM output just so that all looks just a little better and puts less strain on your eyes. Not that you're staring at them forever, but it's still a nicer touch and you can tell if you're *really* looking at them that these control the light output a little better. The final piece here is that I know a few people want to purchase these. I'm sorry to say that I'm still working on that and don't have much additional information other than that right now. I'll keep those interested updated when I know more.
  9. phydiux

    2015 DQS Tow Mirror turn signal controller

    A microcontroller I created to allow the clearance lamps on the DQS towing mirrors to also operate as turn signals.
  10. So, it came up a few posts back on the last page that a BCM program would be able to fix the SLE/SLT conversion, but then there are no other comments from anyone as to whether GTPprix has actually done that for them. Can anyone confirm whether there's a realistic and working solution to this?
  11. It's a heat wave here, hitting a high of about 33 degrees today. That meant it was time to get the controllers installed: I'm very happy with how they turned out.
  12. Hey Henry, Since there are a number of people wanting these, I'm trying to figure out what my best option here is. I actually designed up a through-hole version: But, I'm not happy with it because it's simply huge compared to the surface-mount version that I came up with and because I think making this design available would not be very helpful to people. I mean, seriously, who's going to buy this bare PCB, then go source all the other parts for it and solder it up? It's not cost effective, it's large, and nobody would end up with a controller they're really happy with. The SMD version really is the only way to go with this, but the main problem there is that most people won't be able to solder or program it themselves. I was looking into having a small run of a few dozen boards made, but haven't gone to that extent yet because that's me laying out a nontrivial amount of cash and a bit of effort just so others can buy them. By no means am I asking for a group buy or for people to commit to them, I'm simply stating issues with this type of distribution. So, what's the best option? Would you be willing to buy a PCB you could solder and source components yourself? Or would you want a complete controller, programmed and ready to splice into your harness?
  13. Well, keep in mind that a project this small and precise is probably a little out of the realm of doable for most people unless you're an electrical engineer or simply kind of crazy and obsessive about details. I'm not an electrical engineer. Most people aren't comfortable designing their own boards or soldering surface mount components, let alone programming mircoprocessors. I enjoy the challenge of making something very small and developing the software for it, so that's why I did this. The programmer I have was about $40, but from past projects, I already had it and so I simply used it. Once you start making things like this, it makes it easier to make more things like this in the future. I also have a Weller soldering iron, with an exceptionally fine point tip which would be required to solder something like this. Chances are very good you wouldn't be able to put this together using something like a pencil iron you pick up at Radio Shack; you need something with a smaller tip to it or you won't be able to individually solder things up. Yes, around $75 was for the PNP versions. The connectors and terminals are manufactured by a company called JST and are available from suppliers online and aren't that expensive: The connectors are: ARVWSB-18C-3AK is the male wire-to-wire connector; they cost about 75 cents each ARVPB-18C18-3AK is the female wire-to-wire connector; the cost on these is also about 75 cents each. Terminals for them are: SNAC3W-A021T-0.64, which are about 8 cents/each SAIT-A03T-M064, which are about 4 cents/each. So, you're looking at a total of about $7 for the connector components, not counting wire or the few hours of work you have to put into them. But, you can't just use those cheap yellow/blue/red barrel crimpers you picked up at the local auto parts store; these pins are small and need a crimp tool designed for small pins.
  14. For the three I made (I made one to prototype and develop software for and two for the truck) I ended up spending under $75 and a weekend day, plus a few hours after work during the week to make the schematic and layout the board. Cost also depends on the tools you have; I already had a programmer, crimp tool that worked well enough and soldering iron small enough. Making even a small run would reduce cost a bit, PNP harness aside. I spent more time on that part than I spent on anything else for this project. It would be so much easier to cut the tow mirror's harness and that wouldn't affect the harness on the truck. The controller is about the same width as the connector on the mirror, so it should fit through the hole in the door that the harness goes through, too.
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