hutch08

They're made by Bulletproof Bumpers.. but the shop i deal with has them custom made with their logo on it, Farleys Truck & Auto Addictions. CNC cut stainless steel kickback to clear larger tires, heavy duty rubber with all stainless hardware. These are the 12" wide, black powdercoat... but you can get them in plenty of different sizes.

No doubt that would probably look better... but I'm not about to pull the headlights apart. Too much effort for the end result haha, smoking them with film should cut down on how much they stand out.

Rough Country +2.5 level up front and +1 block in back. 20x10 -24 xd820 wheels. 285/55r20 Cooper At3 tires. 12" kickback flaps. Black vinyl wrapped all chrome. PPF over vinyl and full front end. Full Debadge. 5% tint over factory rear tint. 30% front tint. Vinyl smoked rear lights. Vanquish Auto LED's. BakFlip HD Tonneau. Planning on smoking the front amber signals as they stand out too much to me. Also, going to do a muffler delete to give it a little more rumble.

Haha thanks... GM should release the Hutch package. Leveled on 20x10s with AT tires and Kickback Flaps. Debadged/Smoked/Tinted. Black on Black on Black. I've probably done that same setup on half a dozen trucks now.... ?

Someone say black? 10th vehicle in a row I've bought black... Every time I regret it though Haha!

New 17' I just picked up. Traded in the 16' Duramax... didn't have a need for a diesel anymore.

Hey guys, didn't quite find what I was looking for. I have a customer with a 2015 and the LED back up lights in the mirrors. Anyone know of a way to turn them on while the truck is in drive?

Bumping this thread... any Silver Ice trucks with Black 22's ? Thinking about selling my black all terrain and going with more of a "street truck"... I'm tired of washing black vehicles. Found a pic of a silver rally edition:

I like the sounds of those measurements, but I agree not worth it if you're getting vibrations... How about putting the shackles back to stock and pulling the rear block instead?

Fender Measurements???

How has the black finish been holding up on these? I just sold my factory chrome boards and am planning on picking up a set of "new" black take-offs.

On stock 20's you'll be rubbing the upper control arms and sway bars at full lock with a 305(12.5") wide tire. I have stock 20's with 295/55r20(33x11.5) Toyo AT2 Xtreme tires that rubbed the UCA lock. I'm now running 8mm wheel spacers so my wheel offset is like a +19mm now, stock 20's are +27mm. That's the thickest you can go to remain a safe amount of wheel stud. They just clear the UCA now but I can still get them to touch if I crank the wheel to max in reverse. If you want ZERO rubbing on stock 20's a 285 is the widest you can go.

Yeah you can buy longer replacement studs but it's not necessary with this thickness spacer. I would NOT go any thicker though without replacing the studs. I did a bunch of research because I was concerned about stud length, safety, etc... and pretty much everything lead me back to the same information. No matter the size of the bolt, after 6 full revolutions the rest is "useless". Maximum strength is already achieved and it will provide no extra breaking protection or "grip strength". The general rule for vehicles is minimum 6 revolutions. The spacer manufacture even states, "ATTENTION: When applying spacers, it may require you to install longer studs on your vehicle's hubs in order to get sufficient tightening of the lug nuts. Minimum 5 turns!" Even though the I said factory position took 13 full turns, that's not actually true under further investigation. The stock lug nuts are only threaded probably the first half of the length on the inside, so of those 13 turns there was probably only 8 or 9 full revolutions making contact and the rest of the stud is just sitting inside the closed end of lug nut. Just go to a bolt/nut bin and see for yourself...even grade 8 bolts no matter the size, you'll only get about 4 full revolutions of the nut before the bolt starts coming out the other side. I compared some small 1/4" bolts to some massive 1" bolts we use at work for bolting high pressure pumps together and sure enough, after 4 turns the the stud is coming out the other side.

A late update for anyone else interested... I ended up buying a set of 8mm hub centric spacers, which is around 5/16" thick. A little bigger than my initial plan of using 1/4" (6.35mm) spacers. They're machined from billet aluminum and fit of the spacers seemed great. After installing them and the wheels I had just over 7 full turns until contact, then around one more turn while torqueing them down. Tires now clear the sway bar completely and I have about 1/8" of clearance at the UCA at full lock. If I keep the wheel pinned all the way and back up I can still make the tire barely touch, but I never do that on a daily basis. Track width was increased a little at the front, but due to the fenders and flaps it actually looks even like the back now.

Factory 20's are +27mm so either will stick out further than stock. To clear the 295's against the control arms you need a minimum +18mm offset. I'd personally go with the +12's unless you want to be wider than your fenders. "0 offset" means the hub face is exactly in the center of the wheel. The more positive the number the further in the wheels are tucked, less positive or even negative offset sticks the wheels out away from the vehicle.