Razorback7

I agree. My wife's BMW X7 has them on all the time at a nice low setting and it's a great look and also functional if you drop something.

It appears they are on any time the ignition is on. This solution would keep the footwell lights on all the time. If you just want them on when the doors are open, the post about using the lighted door sills would be an option.

For those with a center console, how about the LED light in the storage? It's on all the time best I can tell.

So the illuminated door sills for the refreshed trucks use "cavity #1" on the X1 BCM connector to power the door sills. Would that work for footwell lighting as well? See pages 17-18. 2022-sill plate.pdf

What makes the AutoStopStart eliminator the better product? Honest question.

I have a 2023 Denali with the LZ0 Duramax diesel. According to https://www.smartstopstart.com/chevy-buick-cadillac-gmc-products.html, their stop/start eliminator now support the refreshed trucks, including the diesel. Any experience with SmartStopStart? Any side effects? It says it is a 3 minute install, which I prefer to disassembling the dash with Autostop eliminator.

For what its worth, I was in the same dilemma as you on my 2023 Denali order I ended up choosing the Technology Package + power steps instead of the Reserve package. I didn't want the sunroof and I didn't want the 22" wheels. The 20's seem more practical to me. My gut also said they would ride better (many years driving BMW cars.) I just picked up the truck and am very pleased with the ride and the lack of road noise with the AT tires. They are Goodyear Wrangler. No idea how well they will wear, but they are quiet like a street tire. Looks are subjective and we can't answer that for you. But I would have no hesitation ordering the 20's again for real world use.

There are old pilot, bold pilots, but not very many old bold pilots. Same applies here.

signboy, do you have any strain relief on the red wire from the add-a-fuse? When I first installed mine, I just plugged it in to the fuse socket, added a small cutout on the fuse box for the wire, and left it at that. When I checked it later, it seem the wire bundle would slightly pull on the wire (and the add-a-fuse.) After my incident the other day, I took extra time to wire tie the red wire just outside of the fuse box and made sure that the red wire was not pulling on the rest of the add-a-fuse. We'll see if that helps any or not. I'll add a picture later when I'm near the truck.

From Jared via an email conversation about this problem: "The fuse is actually supplying the power to the led's and headlight bulb as it is clean power".

I had this happen last week as well. In my case the add-a-fuse housing split at the seams. I suspect the add-a-fuse got loose and created a high-resistance situation. I think the add-a-fuse is of poor quality. Gen5 already sent me a new add-a-fuse, so they are doing what they can to help. Does anyone have another option for where we can obtain clean switched power?

Sorry. These large threads make it hard to digest all of the info sometimes.

This may be old news, but I found out through Jared that the SLE to SLT housings he is selling are now factory HID. Apparently these are from the 2016 3/4 ton trucks which still have the 2014/2015 lighting configuration but with HID, built in ballasts, etc.

Here at work we have a 2014 with 125,000 on it without any issues.

I hope I'm not a light snob. I'll admit I'm spoiled by my BMW Adaptive LEDs that move, have adaptive high beam, etc. But that's another story