ProModMike

Where did you get bags to fit our trucks lifted this much? I was told I would have to build something.

Careful. I'm at 83-1/2" with a 7" Full Throttle lift on a 2015 Denali with 35's and I went into a parking garage with a posted minimum height of 88". I was fine.......until I got to the first light fixture. They forgot to take those into account apparently. There were spikes at the entance, so no backing out. I had to let a ton of the air out of my tires to get out without remodeling or having a convertible. Good thing I have an air compressor and tank on board for my train horns with a hose and fittings to fill tires.

Can anyone suggest a couple Magnaflows? So far I only have the 12229/14229 on my radar. The goal is like I said above, remove the resonator, replace the muffler and relocate the flapper valve to achieve some startup rumble, WOT holler, but not rattle your fillings out on the freeway. We want to see how many, if any, of the Maganflows will do this using the above configuration.

With a fairly strong understanding of sound resonance, flow regimes and all that jazz, I looked into the flow mechanics of the GM Borla system and there IS significant effect from relocating the "flapper valve" upstream of the muffler. The stock muffler is actually fairly free flowing however, it creates turbulent or "dirty" flow downstream which the flapper valve helps to smooth out and is cleaned up by the resonator. Now, from what I can tell, and I used software that certainly wasn't designed for this application, but still similar, having the flapper valve upstream of an even MORE free flowing system helps to smooth the flow and control the velocity BEFORE it has a chance to become turbulent and create vibration, which in turn creates unwanted noise. Hence why Dynomax attempted to create a similar effect inside their VT muffler. I think I'm going to try an oval Magnaflow WITHOUT the resonator but moving the flapper valve upstream of the muffler. My goal is mimic the outcome of the GM Borla system. I want noise when I'm to the wood, wanna hear it idle, but don't want to hear a steady subwoofer racket on the freeway. I'm not overly worried about V4 mode as my truck is lifted 7" on 35's and, well, pretty much never sees V4 as a result. If anyone would like to suggest a Magnaflow that would be best, I'll give it a try and report back and try and use instrumentation during a video to produce real, measurable outcomes. I will be installing V-band flanges up and downstream of the muffler so I can install different mufflers to experiment. This venture will be subsidized by a local outfitter who wishes to be able to better tailor what its customers get. Meaning, they get a LOT of guys/gals coming through their doors every day asking for the same things as many of you, myself included, but don't want to shell out $1k+ for a catback system. So, we're going to try these theories out with about 4-5 different mufflers and record the results on video as well as with sound metering equipment for some unbiased results.

Happened to mine but down here below sea level and certainly not in tempertaures below 50F yet. I bought the truck in April, 2015 Denali. I took it back to the dealer and they said they would just use a heat gun to work the panel back flat. I laughed really hard and said, no, no you're not, Amos. You're gonna replace that piece that reaches from speaker to speaker. They did. I watched. It just unclips from the dash frame using those same metal "wedge clips" that almost all your trim panels use. The placement of the tab that holds the clip under that piece where it warps at is the problem. It doesn't allow it to expand or contract across the entire surface. That area sees a lot of temp fluctuation from sun, defrost, you name it. Mine is actually starting to do it again.

It will ONLY if you don't compensate for the increased downward angle on the upper control arm. Why? Because that's where the magnetic ride control reads the position of the front suspension from. If the downward angle increases on the upper control arm, which it will regardless of the position of the strut spacer, the mag ride will take this as the suspension coming unloaded and will anticipate sharp impact and will stiffen the shock to minimize the impact, thus giving you a stiffer ride. To fix this, fab up a bracket, many of us who have lifted these Denalis can provide you examples of our versions, and just install it and you'll be just fine. My truck has the FTS 7" kit and rides like a Cadillac. For the rear, if you only add a 2" block in place of the 1" factory, you'll be fine and will notice no difference. Why? because the bracket for the rear mag ride sensors affix to the bottom of the leaf pack BETWEEN the block and the axle. So you can put any size block you want and the truck will not know the difference. However, you have to be careful not to exceed the maximum fully extended length of the stock shock. With just adding an inch, you'll be fine. If more, you'll need to employ a shock extension bracket that can be purchased from FTS or Fabtech.

Sounds good. I'll check it out, but I get what you're saying. I'm going to run a mono amp with only one subwoofer. Thanks for the excellent posts!!!!

So these are the 2 signal wires to tie into to get the signal feed for the added aftermarket sub amp? Can I just use one of those PAC RCA adapters that has the 4 wires (2x+, 2x-) on one side and RCA jacks on the other?

Outstanding. Did you go with the complete catback or just swap in the muffler and delete the resonator?

So you're not getting any drone on the highway? Did you delete the rear resonator and valve?

Ahhhhhhh!!! The ultimate pasta rocket."Ducati - burning rice since day 1" You have good taste!!! (minus the Ford, lol) Between my race car and toys, the wife sure as hell isn't gonna go for me having one of those, lol.

Just to give you guys a taste of how old Mike gets down. Click the video, make sure your volume is up and just let it sing to you.

Thanks man!!!!! Means a lot coming from someone with an equally as well done truck. It's hard to beat black......unless you don't leave it under a satin stretch cover in the garage and you actually drive it, lol. Then it pays to have the white, lol. I almost opted for the blue because I was pissed they charge $1k for the white, lol. But I'm happy with it. I would have jumped on silver in a heartbeat though. Then I could match during towing..........

Thanks and no problem, any time!!!!