CaptainMcFunk

After a quick google, it appears the fix is to replace the valve: https://www.samarins.com/glossary/vent-valve.html Some GM trucks were known to have this problem which causes the code P0466. The repair includes vent valve replacement and some modification of the vent valve setup.

I get this code about once every 2 months or so, and I just clear it and move on. I haven't been able to replicate it under any specific instances, so i'm not really sure. I know that's not helpful, but i'm glad to know it's not just me getting this code!

Still haven't figured this out. My problems are so random - when the headlights are in the auto position, and I put the truck in drive or reverse, they start freaking out flickering like crazy until i turn the headlight knob into the "on" position, and then they work fine. other times, neither will come on and work at all. i called TRS and whoever I got on the customer support side wasn't having a good day. I asked them if the anti-flicker capacitors "go out" frequently and they told me no, and I needed to test it with a multimeter. Well, i dont think i should have to go out and buy a tool to test an item i purchased from them. The guy just kept telling me that i have to test it and nothing else will be done until I do that. not too helpful to me to be honest....not really sure what to try now, but it makes me not even want to drive the truck. I've moved my ground twice now, so i dont think that's the issue, but who knows. I don't have it ground to the negative battery terminal anymore because I have 3 or 4 other things stacked up on it for my light bar, side steps, stereo, etc.....

hey guys, i have a 2015 GMC Sierra SLE. I purchased the Morimoto Elite 35w HID kit, with the HD Relay and the Anti-Flicker Capacitor Link from retrofitsource back on 10/6/2016. The things have been perfect ever since installing them, until about a week ago. When I got in the truck to head to work, I noticed the headlights didn't turn on like normal. I tried to flip the switch on and off, and got nothing at all. I turned off the truck, got out, closed the door, waited about 5 minutes, then tried to start it again. The lights came on just fine, no issues. Yesterday, I got in the truck to head to a family gathering, and they wouldn't turn on again. I did the same routine, but this time, nothing. i can't get anything at all to come on. I spent about an hour going through my connections to make sure a wire didn't come lose anywhere, and everything seems to be fine. I checked all inline fuses, and all fuses in the fuse boxes, and none were blown. I can't really swap ballasts and bulbs from driver to passenger side since neither is working. Any ideas on what i can try next? i would greatly appreciate any help! Thanks, Captain

So i literally just did this/dealt with it. The easiest way is to tap into your rear door speakers to get your new front door signals...if that makes sense? The chime is tied to the front door speakers.....so my wiring goes like this: Factory wiring for rear door + & - --> new wire to my line output converter (LC6i) --> RCAs to my aftermarket amp --> new speaker wire from my aftermarket amp all the way to the front doors into my Hertz Audio component speakers. Let me know if this doesn't make sense and I can try to explain it in more detail, but this was the only way I was able to keep from amplifying the front door speaker chimes. i didn't have to tap into anything at all behind the dash.

I have this too, it sounds like a valve tick from my old LS1 days -- It's pretty loud. i can mainly hear it at idle -- when I stop to get the mail and i get out of the truck every day, it's louder than my Borla XR1 muffler w/ deleted resonator......yet it doesn't throw any codes, and the dealership told me its the injectors, and it's "normal" in these engines.....i've had people walk up asking what's wrong with the truck...so that's fun.

This is the one I went with and WOW did it go up in price from when I bought it! I bought the 5.8ft version of it of course https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012BVG6GM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tyger is a great company -- I did buy their bed cover and it's been great for something like $110 when i bought it off of ebay. Took me all but 10 minutes to install, and doesn't leak at all. Glad to hear they stand by their product. It blows my mind that people will drop $2,000 on a bed cover. That's just silly in my opinion. but to each their own I suppose!

90 views and no responses. cool. But for anyone reading this later, I got it figured out, it was my amp that was cutting out, there's some sort of short in the level adjustment screw; moral of the story, stay away from cheap power acoustik!

Hey guys, I've been battling this car audio gremlin for about 2 months now trying to track it down, and I'm exhausted. I want to see if someone smarter than me can help me out. here is my situation, and equipment list below: 2 - Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-12 subwoofers. They're 2 ohm DVC Subthump Dual downfire box with amp space: http://subthump.com/Chevrolet-GMC-Custom-Subwoofer-Boxes/Silverado-And-Sierra-Crew-Cab-Custom-Subwoofer-Enclosures-by-Subthump/2014-Up-GM-Crew-Cab-Dual-Downfire-Box-With-Amp-Space-Hot-Product.html Power Acoustik Edge EG1-2500D Amplifier -- 800w RMS @ 2ohms PAC Audio PDLC21 2-channel Digital line output converter Here is my problem - After about 10-15 minutes of playing my stereo, my subwoofers just cut out, but the amp DOES NOT go into protection mode, or shut off. The light still shows it's on, and the light on the line output converter shows it's getting power/signal. I literally cannot figure out what's causing it. The amp is not hot all all (to the touch, I don't know if it could still be hot inside by any chance?) Secondary question: The subthump box has terminal cups on each side of the box for each subwoofer. My issue is I'm trying to wires these subs to a 2ohm load, which would be this diagram here: My problem is because I have to go through the terminal cups, Sub 2 goes to the terminal cup, then from the terminal cup to Sub 1's terminal cup, then from Sub 1's terminal cup to the amp. Does this still get me to 2 ohms in theory? If not, could this be the issue? Let me know if there is any more info I can provide to hopefully help out? Thanks so much!

I bought the 40085 and have no plans to install headers or remove the cats Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

You're right on this one, I went to install it last night, and realized the 3" borla was bigger than the stock piping, so i need to get adapters. Also, for anyone running the XR1 muffler on a 2014+ 5.3 -- Did you remove the resonator at the rear of the truck (that's over the rear axle)? I have the 3" in/out XR1 muffler that i'm going to replace the stock with, but need to know if I also need to remove the stock resonator at the back of the truck, or leave it in place? Thanks all!

You're a god among men for the last line of this post. I've been searching forever for the stock exhaust size so I can just cut mine off and replace with the XR-1, THANK YOU!

He's correct, no drilling at all. Literally 0 drilling. Don't even have to jack up the truck to install. There are 3 nuts that are welded to the body (i think thats what it is?) that are already threaded. you sit the bracket over the threaded holes, and you screw in the included bolts.