gmckenzie

That looks like the middle sized one they had. The one's I bought are heavier duty than these. They had light, medium and HD ones. This is what I bought.

I've got new front brakes (my rotors are warped) and Bilstein 4600's for all corners and am looking to do it all myself. I did ask my normal shop about replacing the front springs if I brought in my strut assemblies, and got some lamed assed answer about not using customer supplied parts, so I went and bought a HD Spring Coil compressor tool from Princess Auto (Canada's Harbour Freight). It's their 2600lb version. I've no issue with everything else, but is this a bad idea to swap the front shocks myself? It's my Easter weekend plans.

******. Was hoping for about 1/2 that.

So, I've got a 2015 GMC Sierra that I use to pull a trailer, with the NHT setup. Very low mileage. Have not hit 45,000 KMS yet. But it broke on me last year and dropped an AFM lifter. Under warranty, but still cost me ~$1,500 as I was on holidays at the time and had to have it towed home, plus renting a 1 ton to get my trailer (underwhelmed by the GM 6.6L gas BTW). So I'm thinking I either sell it and buy a Ford with the Godzilla (don't want the headaches of diesel) or keep it and make it more bulletproof. Given the state of getting a new vehicle right now, and how unlikely it is I upgrade my trailer any time soon (RV market is similar to truck market, except the QA has gone to ******), I'm thinking it's time to dump the AFM properly. So, what do I need to dump the AFM and build a reliable trailer rig? Options all the way up to a Procharger if it is useful. Bigger issue is finding a shop capable of doing it. I'm in Central BC, Canada. I get that I'm talking cam and lifters, but what cam? And does the stock tranny (6spd) need anything? Truck has the bigger 3.73 gears, so I doubt I would upgrade those. Any advice? Anyone done something similar? Thanks for any input.

This is going to sound weird, but when my radio stops working (no chime or turn signal noise) I know it's time to plug my truck into a battery charger. I have a 3.5 km commute and a 6 yr old battery, so it needs a charge once a week or so and really seem like the radio stops when the battery is low. Waiting for it to warm up to put a new one in.

Enough so that I'm likely going to have a Ford in a few months. Been a GM guy most of my life (had a Jeep CJ in there somewhere), but between the 10 spd, a choice of axle ratios and a proper locker, the Ford F-350 looks appealing. I think both will be good trucks, but I'd feel like I was settling to stick with GM at this point.

I have a tiny shake in mine. Never enough to bother me, but I know it's there at ~120kmh. I don't go that fast often. But certainly wouldn't call it a death wobble, so that was new to me. But I do see it impacts all 3 brands for HD trucks. I wish the GM had the 10 spd.

I'm in the same boat. Towing ~8K now with a 1500 (max trailer) but looking at a 350/3500. Also not a Ram fan. Plan on upgrading the trailer in a few years, but not excessive so still want gas. Also, could get by with a 3/4 ton, but BC adds 3% sales tax to 3/4 ton and lower, so the 1 ton ends up cheaper. Been a GM guy all my life, but the lack of a 10 spd and axle choices are making me lean towards a Ford. What is the death wobble? Off to google I go. So why buy GM over Ford?

I'm trying to build and price a 2020 GMC 3500 online (in Canada). SLE trim with 6.6 Gas. I know I can't order it, but the site doesn't have the 2021 HD yet. I'm trying to get the Prograde trailering, but it doesn't seem to be allowed with other packages, like the Kodiak or the SLE convenience package. So I can't get power seats and a bunch of other nice to haves. Is the Prograde worth it? I do plan to upgrade my trailer at some point and would like at least a rear trailer camera.

So, I've got the same problem. So a bad battery will cause my chime and turn signals to not make any noise? I've seen what it takes to replace the battery in these things, and not looking forward to that. Might throw it on a charger first.

Well, I've got mine working. Not sure how helpful my solution is, but it did give me an idea of what is wrong. My low beams had nothing but my high beams worked. A couple years ago, I swapped out my headlights for some that were marginally better. Thinking my next step would be going back to the dealership, I went through the PITA of putting the originals back in so that the dealership wouldn't blame the headlights. Well, the originals work fine (or as good as they can). What I'm thinking is one of my low beam bulbs died, and it confused the BCM so neither worked. I tried resetting the computers by pulling the negative off the battery and taking a half hour before putting it back on, but that didn't do anything. Anyway, sticking with the OEM and griping about the headlights again. But if I were to start over, I'd try a bulb or two first.

Add me to the list with this issue, and not finding an answer....

Here is my story. It was a 2001 with a Duramax, so 2 batteries. Came to find the truck dead. Asked my wife what she did as she was the last to drive it. I was joking, but of course should have kept my mouth shut. Explain I'm joking and there is nothing she could have done to cause it. Charged both batteries and it was good for a couple of days, and then dead again. Part of the problem is I have a short commute, so batteries never get a good charge, but they should last more than 2 days. Weekend comes. I've stuck the truck on the charger so I have a good charge. Disconnect on batter entirely so I'm only fussing with one. Disconnect the negative and put an ammeter in line to see what's happening. I see a draw of about 2 amps for maybe 30 seconds, then a slight draw for a minute or so. Repeat. Repeat. I start pulling fuses one at a time. Of course I have to wait a minute or so as it's not a constant draw. One at a time. Cursing all the way. Well, I finally pull one and don't see the draw. Forget which one it is now, but it controlled stuff in the cab. Look online to see what was controlled by the fuse and somehow glean onto one item being the circuit breaker for the electric motors for the seat. Sure enough, I check the control and the seat cover has the control to push the seat forward jammed full back. Move the seat cover, replace the fuse and the mysterious draw is gone. Put everything back together and go inside. Remember above where I told my wife there was nothing she could do to cause it? Well, yeah dumb me (still kinda in a pissy mood) tells her I was wrong and it was something she did. God, some people never learn. Anyway, if you do what the above post suggests, then know that circuit breakers can draw and then not draw. So be sure to check for more than a minute.

First, ignore dry weight. It's a joke. Look at the gross weight and work from there. Tongue weight will be 12-15% of that. Mine works out right at 12.5%, but go a bit higher for estimates. Add 100 lbs to that number for your WD hitch and bars. That is the number to check against payload.

Want to see what a 7.3L 10spd combo does on the test. I tow in BC so everywhere I go is uphill. Not Ike grades but enough that my 1500 and 8,200lb trailer slow down. I do think GM missed the boat with the 6 spd for the gasser.