ruggerag

OK, this may be a little long, but here goes. I have a 2015 z71, and the ranchos were pretty soft, so at about 30k miles I installed bilsteins on all four corners. I put the ring at the slot to add 3/4" or so, and I run slightly larger tires. I'm now at almost 150k miles. Last year I replaced the upper control arms with cognito ones that supposedly correct the ball joint angle. I also replaced the CVs, and figured heck, it's only a couple bucks more for extended length CV axles. (I also replaced the lower ball joints). So I'm sitting at about 1.5" in front, and I've got the improved angle control arm, and extended length CVs (they telescope a little). I think I need new shocks and springs, so while I'm doing that, does it make sense to replace the hubs too? I'd like to get another inch or so, but I have no idea how to do it. I'm looking at the eibach pro truck stage 2, shock and coilover, which says 1.75-4" lift. Do I do a hub with built in lift? Whats the best way to get about an inch more of lift while I'm swapping the shocks? I'm really all over the place. Thanks!

Has anyone seen anything decent for black friday? Specifically I'm looking for a zone 4.5 lift, spark plugs and wires, new brake pads and drums, etc. What is everyone else trying to pick up?

My brakes are squealing, and have been for a while. I took my truck in and was told there is some uneven spots on the rotors but it doesnt affect function, it's just annoying. Well, I'm tired of it. I'm at 45k and its probably close enough. So as per my lurking, I think I want to go with the police package brakes. Anyone who has these, will they affect braking in the cold/snow/wet or while towing? I was looking at this thread below and someone linked a photo of the parts from rockauto. It shows a couple different parts for the front pads and rotors and rear pads and rotors- do I want bendix, raybestos, or acdelco when I have an option? Are the prices for the rotors per rotor (vs per pair)? This is the first time I've done brakes. Any tips? I have a 2015 Silverado ltz z71 4wd. Thanks!

If you are having a rattle from the suspension after you installed a block, try tightening the nut on top of the shock assembly while you have the truck on the ground. The nut is accessible through the engine bay.

Does anyone have the PN for the little plastic pop rivets that keep the engine bay cover attached? The front-most cover, that goes all the way to both sides of the truck and then covers the front lip of the grille and the radiator. My truck has two types of pop rivets on the cover, one seems a little more heavy duty, and looks more like a drywall anchor. They are getting all chewed up, and the ones from autozone aren't quite the same (and really expensive amyways). Thanks!

I did Bilstein 5100s at the 3rd setting, and continental terraincontact tires, 275/60r20 on the factory rims, no offsets, and a 1" block in the back. It rides pretty good, and I do not rub. I was rubbing with the 275/60R20s and the factory shocks (just slightly on the wheel well liner). I have a 2015 LTZ Z71, came stock with the rancho shocks, and I'm pretty sure my control arms are steel.

I've got continental terraincontact 275/60R20 and just got my bilstein 5100s set to 3rd setting, and 1" block in back. I get no rubbing, and the tires are awesome. I had some rubbing on the fender liner before the bilsteins, but not any more. For anyone planning on going this route, I paid under 850 delivered from discount tire direct, including tpms. Definitely loving the setup. Gained about 1.5-2.0 inches total from the tires and shocks I think.

I installed 275/ 60 r20 tires on my factory 20" wheels. I got a tiny bit of rubbing on the wheel well protector when I maxed out turns. If you don't have the wheel well liner you will probably be fine. The wheel well liner looks like carpet material but it's really stiff. Pretty sure the 275/60r20 and 275/70r18 is the same tire diameter.

Thanks guys, I moved everything back to the leveled setting on the bilsteins, swapped the factory top nut (which is about 1/4" taller), tightened it up to show three threads at the top (started getting pretty tight, I had two full threads above the bilstein nut, so it's definitely tighter), and then when I reassembled the truck and dropped it back on the ground I hit the nut with the impact from the top. It moved pretty easily about 1/2 turn then tightened up again. No more clunking and I think it actually rides a little better than before. I can't believe I wasted so much time taking everything apart, trying to put lift blocks in, swapping ride heights, etc, when I could have just hit it with the impact from the engine bay. Thank yall for the help!

Ok thanks guys. I spent five hours yesterday removing the shocks, changing the length/preload on the 5100s, and trying to install front blocks instead before deciding there was no way they fit, and giving up. So I am going to pull them back out, put them back on the 3rd ring setting, and then tightening the crap out of the top nut. Since I am going to pull the shocks anyway, and have to put them back on the spring compressor, how will I know when the nut is tight enough? Thanks!

This is the one nut that keeps the spring attached right? With the shaft passing through it, where you are supposed to use an adjustable wrench to keep it straight and tighten the nut with a crescent? How did you get an impact gun over the shaft? I tightened mine to have 2 full threads above it, I feel like I could tighten it for a long time with the spring compressed...

Which is the castle nut? The one on top, maintaining spring pressure? Or the ones on the bottom on the sides, mounting it to the lower arm? I don't understand how this noise could be due to either. I spent a couple hours messing with it today, so I guess I'll try those next?

I just installed bilstein 5100s on all four corners of my 2015 silverado 1500. I set the front shocks to the third notch (supposedly about 1.5" of lift), and I swapped the rear block with a new 2" block (1" more height). I got an alignment afterwards. Now I am getting some major clunking from the front end when I go over small bumps. Does anyone have any idea what is going on? It's not the bump stops, and I don't see anything else making contact, and it happens anywhere from very small to large bumps when I'm turning and going straight. Thanks

I ordered from shop chevy parts, 35 plus shipping, got shipping confirmation the same day

You should be able to go into your settings for the driver screen and add the page in or remove pages you don't want. Had a buddy who said he didn't have the screen but turns out he just hadn't turned it on.