650h1

So I bought a set of Kensun HIDs off Amazon (I know...), and hooked everything up. I did not run a wire or harness to the battery, and I will not be doing that (because it's bullshit). The issue is that the lights work perfect when the truck is off, but when I start the truck, the HIDs come on and warm up, then shut off and will not come back on... I don't have warning cancellers/capacitors, will they fix the issue?

I have a leveling kit, and it did NOT fix my issue. FYI....

Loved my tundra... Never should have traded it in. The 12mpg kind of sucked, but knowing what I know now, I'd gladly take that truck back... Shit I'd pay to have it back!

Anyone try using spring clamps to balance their driveshaft and see if it improves their vibrations? I'm thinking of trying it...

Test drove a couple Rams today... Would have bought one but I'm too upside down in my lease to even remotely make it work. This is a really depressing situation...

I'm thinking that shims should fix the issue - we just need to know how to line the driveline up perfectly and get someone to test it.

Anyone have any updates?

Has anyone here actually spent some time working on their trucks to find the issue for the vibration? If you look at the leaf springs, GM put blocks in the rear of these trucks, I'm guessing which is why they have so much rake, and probably helps with payload. I had a Tacoma a couple years ago that I lifted, and used blocks in the rear end, but the blocks in that lift kit were angled, and they came with shims to further angle the rear axle up or down to keep the driveline in line. I know there were low speed vibes (10 or lower) with my Tacoma that were caused by the lift - the vibes were corrected by using a carrier bearing drop kit, to keep the 2 piece driveshaft straight, and not at a weird angle. Basically, I'm wondering if shims or a custom driveshaft would solve our issues. There are only so many things it could be, and I really like my truck BESIDES this frigging vibration. If I could fix it myself, I'd rather just drive out my lease instead of losing a shitload of money on trading it in, or having them mock me with their retarded buy back offers...

The issue is that GM is selling thousands of trucks. Thousands. There are like what, 20 of us here actively participating that have an actual vibration NOT caused by the wheels or tires? GM or any business out there will take those odds every time. People don't come to forums because they have no issues with their cars, they come here to find solutions. Unfortunately for us, there aren't enough people out there pushing the issue for it to be a cost benefit to GM to put time into fixing these trucks. They don't care. They are still selling trucks, and flooding the market so our trade-in values aren't shit, and they could not care less. GM isn't stupid, they know lemon law is too much hassle for most, they know they'll win most of the time anyways, and by offering $3500 in trade allowance, most of the dubs who buy these piles of shit think they won and will trade in for another pile of shit in a different color. There are too many retards out there who are brand loyal to their sisters, cousins and GM in order to get any of this fixed, and all it does is **** us, who actually care...

Surprised no one has been able to figure this out yet. How do you make a truck with an "un-fixable" shake? There should only be so many things that it could be...

Look up the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act - advise them they need to find a link between your air intake, and the transmission failure in order to deny the warranty work. If they still give you a hard time, send them a certified letter from your attorney.

After it snowed I was able to get out and torque my U-bolts to 100 ft/lbs. Vibration is pretty much gone...

So none of this worked for you? Wondering if you tried a set of 18s, if your issue would be gone. I've wondered that about my truck...

Hopefully going to try this tonight when I get home from work - will update everyone after.

what exactly did you do?