Rambodog

I wear a mask in more crowded areas because I respect others. I show respect to others by showing intent to keep my germs to myself. I carry a small personal size spray bottle filled with https://www.caseyjonesdistillery.com/distillery-hand-sanitizer?utm_medium=adwords&utm_campaign=&utm_source=distillery_hand_sanitizer&utm_content=distillery_sanitizer_responsive&utm_term=%2Bdistillery %2Bsanitizer&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8PPZ3YHO6QIVEL7ACh27uACZEAAYASAAEgJXXfD_BwE This stuff is like moonshine, it's a trip lol. I am navigating and learning to live within the confines of society as it is presented to me in a safe manner. The more and more things open up here in Western, NY I learn new ways to navigate the day. I can't say anything to someone else about how they wanna navigate this and not be a hypocrite and step on someone's rights. That in itself is what I navigate, reality and I have choices and so do you. People are gonna do how they seem fit, just don't disrespect me and we're all good. I don't like how people are taking advantage of the situation. My rights are threatened all the time and if this ain't a Peachy situation for that. It's way too easy if we all stay home and don't make an effort to live a new way. At least for now...

I have been away for a minute, I am using an HID kit. It uses a bulb that fits much like the factory halogen bulb does, only it is powered by a ballast mounted near the headlight. A 7/8" hole is drilled into dust cap. A grommet/seal fits into the hole snug, but allows wires from ballast to pass thru dust cap to bulb. It is as sealed as factory. Many directions state 1" hole , but at 7/8" the seals still fit, but they are snug. At 1" they can be moved slightly meaning a not so tight seal. I want to add something. The housings I have came with the harness connector kind of loose. The metal clip that holds connector to housing can allow connector to come detached. Now you would look at this situation and think, who cares it isn't going anywhere and your right it isn't and is perfectly fine until water comes into the equation. With the connector loose and more vertical than horizontal like the clip holds it, the connector can fill with water. Even worse are the northern guys that get salty water road spray. It will rust the connectors quick. Put some adhesive on the clip to be sure it stays put on the housing like the stock one does. Finding the truck end of the headlight harness to replace is freaking impossible. I had to clean my connector down to clean metal again with a tiny pic tool and a tiny file. I have to see if maybe a junk yard is an option. I would even solder one in if I could just get a replacement end of the harness. I am not sure what all the rest of that headlight harness feeds. Mine works fine so far all cleaned up, but I would still like clean and new again.

The Spec'd kit still uses a standard HID bulb and fits just fine under the dust cap on the LTZ projector, LTZ replicas by Eagle Eyes, Winjets or the reflector housings for that matter just fine with nothing but a 1" hole for the harness pass thru. I do a 3/4" hole for a tighter fit. The only thing that makes it Spec'd are the caps for anti flicker and an HD harness. I added my own caps to a standard Morimoto kit with HD harness to make my own Spec'd kit. I am confused about why anyone has had an issue putting an HID bulb in any K2XX housing and not have the dust cap fit back on. Maybe LED is what OP is thinking of cause many of the LED bulbs can cause dust cap fitment issues. Or if doing a retro like adding the FXR for example, there might be a fitment issue.

I have had mine over a year and so far so good. I can't say how bright they are with halogen cause I did HID, but if anyone cares. This is with a Morimoto bulb and 35 watt Diode Dynamics ballast. I have no issue with the performance and can see a good distance. I recently acquired a set of Morimoto 50 watt ballasts and am gonna give them a try. I had them for a different housing that isn't working as planned so why not.

I did new wheels and tires. Then balance beads in the tires. Sand bags (3) up against the cab in the bed. The weight in the center of the truck oddly helped a little. As did the balance beads. The wheel and tire switch alone did nothing. Most recently I did a full transmission fluid flush and it helped a little also. I have a TCM tune (6 sp) and all of these actions together make for a pretty smooth ride. I took the sand bags out and did a coilover kit and it seems to have cancelled each other out. I can do 70 now with no shakes. Outrageous to have to go thru all of this for a ride I would expect from pretty much any vehicle with 4 wheels and not one that feels like the wheels are out of balance. Although it's better it still isn't like it should be. My ATV with no wheel weights and obnoxious aggressive tires run smoother than my truck before all the changes I made. I think all the time about what if I had purchased a different truck and could have done better. Occasional regret I guess. I could have bought anything and chose the Silverado. I saved for a really long time to buy this Silverado. My first one and likely my last.

I have run the RC 2.5 with 2" rear block and I disliked the limited down travel it created. If the tire dropped out fast like speed bumps for example it caused the UCA to kiss the bump stops now and then. It also caused a clicking sound in the steering. I had the Dealer voluntary update to the steering rack and it didn't change it. I went to a 0-3" adj. coilover set at 2" and the clicking had stopped. I no longer hit bump stops at all. I kept the 2" RC block when I went to the coilover kit. It leaves just a touch of rake for towing or heavy loads, but looks dang near level to the eye. I would do the RC under strut 2" spacers and their 2" rear block to replicate what I did. My opinion of course.

I have had shake @ 75+ since new and was given the run around about it during my first free oil change and at the 2nd free oil change as well as the 3rd and final. They never even tried for me. I have since installed Toyo tires with balance beads and different wheels. I have a Halo adj. coilover set at 2". Kit came with rear shocks included. The shake is still there with shock and tire changes. I had an alignment when the tires went on and again when the shocks did. I did however speak to someone that mentioned the weight in back of the truck. Said something about "Nervous Chassis" and that may be the issue. I did try out his theory and it did actually help a little. I put 4) 70 lb. sand tubes up against back of cab in bed. Your trying for center of truck and it's this or the back of your cab, you choose lol. I ran like this for a week to avoid placebo effect. I think it is possible it masked the issue, but it did feel like it helped a bit never the less. A truck always runs smoother with a load and in this case it helps a little with the shakes. I needed the room for camping so out came the tubes and since it is rare to catch me going over 65 mph, I left them out. I run a 10 ply and lower the psi to 38-40 to absorb road chatter around town 45 mph and under. Once on the highway this soft tire will distort and cause some good shaking so check air pressure no matter the tire your running to be sure your not causing some shake on top of your shake. Simple I know, but you would be surprised by how many will look at more complicated reasons before the simple things lol. I would like to say I had the answer, but I saw that about weight in bed so I had to say I have heard it too and it helped a little in my case. It's unreasonable to be expected to do this for a smooth ride in a $40k truck even if it solved it completely. 2014 5.3 1500 6 sp 4x4

I had a slight vibration since new, but not enough to bother me. My truck sits parked for extended periods and it sat parked before I took it home from dealer. I checked it off as flat spots. After installing a level kit with different directional rear axle blocks, the vibration frequency changed for the better. Still a very slight vibration, but better. I have since replaced tires (aggressive) and the little vibration there still was seems to be masked by the slightly louder tire noise and feel. There may be something to this angle idea? One thing to add. I never tried to glide in neutral or switch between 2 and 4WD.

Parma,NY 20 min. north west of Rochester