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Delta Hotel

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    64
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Profile Information

  • Name
    Dave
  • Location
    SE PA and Savannah, GA
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Motorcycle racing, Outdoors, boats,fishing,shooting, small arms, Martial arts, training and PT.
  • Drives
    2015 Silverado, Audi and motorcycles.

Delta Hotel's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (3/11)

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  1. Were/are the 6 speeds in the 15's a problem too? Wondering what's on my horizon as I have a 15' LT crew, 5.3 with 40k on it that seems ok, for now..... I can't afford problems.
  2. Mine has the H11 lows and the 9005 high beams. All 4 stay on with high beam function. I had HIDs on my Audi S4 years ago and loved them. Just worry about the packaging and room for the ballast and stuff on these trucks. As for fitment on LED heat sinks, you can get the dust cover for the low beams on the Silverado and trim the tabs to use on the high beam and it works as they are a deeper cup. They're almost $50 from a stealership or $32 on line thru GMParts-dot-com. Did you have any issues with the HID install and what year model is your truck?
  3. They are. HID's are going away and LED's are the future. That said, I am not impressed with the output of these as they claim 6000 Lumens each and there's no way. I have a two sets of Rigid auxillary lights, spots and floods and they're rated at 3500L's each and they smoke thses. No contest.
  4. I'll try a set. The ones I got were $129 EACH.....and they don't fit on passenger side high beam. (9005)
  5. Wow. Very cool. They look almost the size as the originals! (Halogen) Any idea on quality? I will order some as that's a way the ones I got should be...
  6. Just tried a set of LED's made by Heise. H11 low beams went in OK but 9005's were iffy fit on my 2015 1500. Passenger side dust cover on high beam is a no go so I am pissed as I was told these are plug and play. I'll check them out at night and see if rigging something is justified but may just go back to halogens for high beams as I have aux driving lights. Still, pissed off that these manu's make shit that does not work. Heat sink is too long for cover to fit. Crap. Avoid this brand.....
  7. Thank you Ryan! I ended up having a stereo installer fish wires thru with bad results. He used engine cover/hood release cable hole rendering release inoperable. Had to go back and he then slashed big grommet by master cyl and went that way. Had to patch with black RTV. Idiots. Top Tint of Savannah. Ok on window tint but they SUCK at wiring. Thanks again, Dave
  8. MXZEATR, your truck looks great with that tint. Travel a lot to the south but here in PA tint beyond factory is illegal and that's passable for stock. Quick off topic question; who fender trim/flares are those? They look like GMC OEM's and I love that look. TIA, Dave
  9. After decades of racing motorcycles (Roadrace Superbikes, both air and water cooled) and sports cars, mostly European, I have never understood the rationale for extended drain intervals. Oil is cheap, motors, not so much. As for weights and brands of synthetics, as long as film strength and durability under heat load are present, the lighter weight oils are best, especially in cold climes. BUT, that is hard to tell... On brands, there is a great big reason why some oils are formulated to price points in what is a very hotly contested retail market place. I will say from racing and engine building over 30 years, that premium brand oils like Redline, Amsoil, Motul, Silkolene, and of late Royal Purple (RP) show marked improvement in surface wear, oxidization, and evaporation. Even a street car like an Audi Turbo of late, shows marked reduction in "coking" and oil evaporation deposits when one of the premium oils are utilized. HOWEVER, much of the above can be mitigated on a low stress engine like a V8 if frequent intervals (3-6k) are utilized. (but then savings, over a premium brand diminish) HTH and this has simply been my experience over 30+ years. DH
  10. Bump for: Question is: Harness from Rigid is rather short and I am on the battery side with wires now so want to use passenger side door hinge grommet and was wondering how to get the plastic end panel on dash off to access wires once I push them thru the grommet. And.....passenger side grommet would work? Plastic end plate on dash, visible with door open, has no visible fasteners so not sure if I should just pull?? Thanks! Dave
  11. I put a set of Rigid spots on my '15 Crew 1500 and used the tow hooks as mounting points for aluminum home made mounts. Works great until I get my PB400 push bar. (I'll post pics if anyone cares) Question is: Harness from Rigid is rather short and I am on the battery side with wires now so want to use passenger side door hinge grommet and was wondering how to get the plastic end panel on dash off to access wires once I push them thru the grommet. And.....passenger side grommet would work? Plastic end plate on dash, visible with door open, has no visible fasteners so not sure if I should just pull?? I too aborted on the idea of using the nipple on the big grommet by brake master cyl as I just couldn't figure out where wires would come in and was nervous of jamming a hanger thru that grommet.... Thanks for any and all input guys !! Dave
  12. There may be, and that would depend on other laws such as Castle Doctrine and such and one's perception of if they truly believed that their life or well being was in imminent danger of grave injury or death, even though BG had only the intent to steal a TV or whatever. EG: It does not matter what initial motive for entry into your home was if a stranger is standing in your hallway at 02:00 after breaking or breaching a secured door. Basically, self defense to the degree of lethal force is best reserved for the 'No other option" scenerio, unless the idea of a long prison term is a of little concern. Be careful and safe.
  13. Waumo1, Either I mis-phrased my statemment or you misunderstood my intended point (likely a little of both) of my post. To clarify; my intent was to state that the ONLY legally justifiable reason to use a firearm against another is to protect the life of one's self or a loved one. That's it. This has NOTHING to do with the RIGHT to own a firearm and The Second Amendment. As among other things, a former employee of the NRA, I am fully aware of our rights to keep and bear arms.
  14. Get some training and quality instruction of someone with credentials. NRA Cert a minimum. Owning a gun no more makes you a gunfighter than owning a piano makes you a pianist. And if you need a gun to protect life of you or loved one (only justifiable reason in most places) you're in a gunfight. Taking your and your families self defense as in part your responsibility is just that, a HUGE responsibility. Range time and instruction matters, equipment matters little. Your mind is your weapon and the device a tool. Knives make very bad self defense tools as they are contact weapons and require very advanced levels of training. And, you will likely be cut in a knife fight... Never underestimate the level of ferocity your attacker may possess. Firearms are force multipliers far beyond that of a striking tool or edged weapon. Be safe, get instruction, and stay practiced. Best wishes/safety, etc. Dave
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