SouthPawCO

For anyone that is curious is my above post works, it does 100%. This now allows my HID's to run 100% perfect with no issues with the 9v DRL. It also deleted the standard headlight DRL and now my park lights are my DRL. I would suggest this anyone that is either wanting to get rid of the DRL headlights or run HID/LED's without have to buy/use the relay kit. Now its plug and play.

Ok, after digging through this thread, I quoted all the relative information. Has anyone tried this on a 2016 Silverado 2500HD with success? I am wanting to run either LED's or HID's but the DRL function obviously kills this idea. I also despise the DRL feature and would love to have it disabled. Would you be able to just un-pin the DRL supply voltage wire completely out of the plug and not have to worry about swapping it? If you skip to 3:17, you will see the plug this is referring to:

They actually did work lol! I ended using the OEM ones though and extending those but the aftermarket ones worked as well.

Interesting. I like the idea of using the factory remotes. I think you may have sold me on it for $120. Do they provide connectors or what do you recommend?

Has anyone used the plug and play kit from MPC for remote start? Reviews are mixed but I think my Tahoe would greatly benefit from this since I am up around 4:30am on most days and hate having to run out there to start it and use a second set of keys to lock it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OU3XDHU/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza Or does anyone know of another company that is fairly easy to install?

Put in a Walbro 450 and something else is on the fritz. I turn the key on now, fuel pressure goes to 38pis, then bleeds off.

According to my fuel pressure gauge (autometer), I am currently sitting at 30ish-psi and at running/WOT it jumps to 40psi. I changed the plugs, wires, regulator and fuel filter but I am getting the same readings. My experience with these fuel pumps is they are either good or bad. I haven't had one getting weak, they just die. I keep having a misfire on cylinder 6, that clears up some when driving. Injector balance test shows the same across the board at 38psi (again, on the autometer gauge). Where would you look next?

So I checked it out and it was right in line with what I thought it would be. The body is in excellent shape with really no damage at all. The interior is on the better side of fair with minor issues here and there but everything works, including the seat warmers. Either the front diff, tcase or half shafts are shot. When you put it in 4x4, it binds pretty almost bringing itself to a complete stop. When I had my '05 Silverado back in 2008, it did the same thing but I never had issues with it other than it making noise. It pulls like a freight train on the highway and sounds really good. The check engine light was on for the misfire but it never ran rough on me but he said it does do it at random. Steering/suspension felt tight and trans felt good. I talked him down to $3k so I think I am going to pull the trigger.

Good information, thank you. As easy and cheap as it is to change the injector, I might just throw one in. The only scary part about it is if it will pass emissions with a misfire code. Colorado has been cracking down on stuff like that. I’ll definitely make sure the trans is good. I think the 4L60 will hold about 400hp without serious abuse but as cheap as they are around here ($300 used) I could pick one up and toss a shift kit in it pretty cheap. I have my fingers crossed it is what he says it is and I can finally start my fast Tahoe build.

Kind of what I was thinking. My plan is to pull the headers and supercharger off to put in my ‘03 Hoe since I like it more and have been fixing it up. I’d sell my truck and be sitting pretty if it works out.

I am going to look at a 2001 Chevy Tahoe tomorrow that I think I can pickup for a pretty decent deal. He originally had it posted for $4500 and has been reducing the price slowly. I've been talking to him the last couple of days and I think I can pick it up around $3000 +/-. It's has a Magunson MP112 supercharger installed, all leather, 200K miles, and the body looks to be in excellent shape. The interior seems to be in fair condition, with some minor wear and tear. He said recently it threw a check engine light for a random misfire on cylinder number six at idle. He did a tune up on it thinking it was bad plugs/wires but it still is present. I talked to my buddy about it and he think's since it is only at idle, it's probably a lazy injector which I agree. It hasn't been for sale that long but I think the way he has it listed, it is hard to find so that's probably why someone hasn't picked it up yet. I found it by accident honestly lol. Does this sound like a pretty decent deal if everything checks out? Also, is there an easy way to test the injector? I can bring a code reader from work but he seems like a pretty honest guy. The mileage doesn't really scare me if it has been maintained well. Hell my 2005 Silverado 1500 has 219K on the clock and I drive it everyday and wouldn't hesitate to take it anywhere. He also just had new tires put on which tells me he was planning on keeping it at least for a little while otherwise he wouldn't have wasted the funds for that. For me that is kind of a tell tale sign if it's a decent rig if someone is willing to spend the coin on some new skins for it. Reason for sale is supposedly to free up some cash. Let me know your thoughts, I'd sure appreciate it.

My '05 1500 burned 1-2 quarts between oil changes. I ran 5w-30 synthetic it since the day I owned it. Around 100K is where it started to do it the worst. I switched to 10w-30 dino oil and it virtually stopped. The oil light would come about almost exactly when the oil change was due was a 1/2 or so quart low. Your oil consumption seems pretty excessive and if it is running out the tail pipe that fast. I recently got out of all my car payments and drive some older rigs and I wouldn't change it for anything right now. At $500 a month +/-, $4500 is only nine months of car payments, after that, it's paying for itself. I'd scrounge craigslist and junkyards for a low mileage used engine if it were me. Reseal it before you drop it in and run it!

Slowly but surely, I am bringing the Tahoe back to life. At this point, what I have invested in it, it is going to be around for awhile. The body currently is about 10-15 footer but anything closer than that, you can see it's imperfections. The ones that stick out the most right now are the driver side door (poor repaint job) and the front/rear bumper. The front bumper has some rot starting on the passenger side and the rear bumper has been used as a... well a bumper at least a few times. Has anyone used the aftermarket ones on eBay/Amazon? It looks like I can get a complete set of front/rear for about $580 shipped. This would include all the plastic/trim pieces top and bottom. They come powder coated black which would be a close enough to the gloss black on my Tahoe now. One thing I did notice is that it says the Denali/Z71 brackets are different on the rear bumper but I cannot see where. The 'Z71' bumper is also about $100 more. Anyone know the difference? Front bumper link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-2000-2006-SUBURBAN-Z71-MODEL-FRONT-BUMPER-FACE-BAR-BLACK-CAP-AIR-DAM-BRACKET/122208932726?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Rear bumper link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Step-Bumper-For-2000-2006-Chevrolet-Tahoe-Suburban-2500-Powdercoated-Black-Rear/351655990791?fits=Year%3A2003|Model%3ATahoe&hash=item51e0549607:g:edwAAOSwVIBcIDNF:rk:8:pf:0 I also might do something like these on the rear bumper while it's out: https://www.amazon.com/Liteway-Driving-Reverse-Daytime-Warranty/dp/B06XCYJTFR/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549318492&sr=8-4&keywords=7"+light+bar+flush#customerReviews

As long as there isn't any water in your oil, most likely pump/t-stat. Might as well do the hoses and belt while you are in there as well. Also be sure to burp the system when you refill it so you don't end up with any air pockets.

I swapped the cluster in my '03 Tahoe for one out of a Duramax with a trans temp gauge. No additional programming was needed but with a trans cooler out front, it takes awhile for it to start getting warm. I think the hottest I have ever seen it was around 150*-175* and that was on a 3.5 hour drive up the mountains. Usually it stays around 100*-125*.