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So I took off the valve cover and cleaned the push rods and sent some b12 chemtool into the land of the lifters. The push rod hole on the offending lifter was clogged significantly more than any of the other one's. Although the cylinder next to it was second place. Not sure why that area is getting the most junk, maybe someone poured something in with the oil since it is right below the oil receptor? Anyway, decided I will be doing my own oil changes from now on as the filter I just had them replace was missing a bolt on the case I am sure they dropped and just didn't care. So that lifter also seated higher than the other 7 on the side of the engine I did. They appeared to all be uniform except that cylinder. I am not an expert on the design or operation of the cam shaft so I cannot say weather this is cause for concern, but it is an observation of something that is not uniform in the offending cylinder at this point. Not sure how to post a picture. Cleaning the cylinder and push rods with b12 did not fix the misfire in cylinder 2. So I think I should take it apart and check for cracks in the valve spring, as you say Enthusiast, and turn the cylinders by hand to check for any inconsistencies in operation. After that my best shot is to try 2 qts of auto transmission cleaner mixed with 4 qts of the oil for a week or two to try to clean it that way from the other end and then change the oil. After that I am looking at a kit of lifters and a few days of focused labor with a hynes manuel, a camera, and a notepad to ensure smooth flow. If anyone has insight into anything from here, thank you as many of you are much more experienced than I am!

The internet is just a place to exchange information that the government collects because they have complexes right? I have spent a few hundred but I am sure I won't forget how to do any of this stuff down the road and I have been consulting with mechanics the whole time. I do appreciate your time.

So injector is new, coil pack, wire and plug. Engine still idles rough, still p0302 cylinder 2 misfire, still loud. Is it better than it was? Yes. But I am not sure what to make of this at this point.

Replaced the Injector, and the noise is lessened, the truck is driving better, but the light still came on for a split second. I am hoping it is fixed but I just had some glitch. Going to drive it in a few again.

I did verify spark, my brother checked with some tool he put in (he works on cars for living but has 6 kids and very little time). For sure spark. Also the 1/2 copper pipe thing is based off a youtube video of someone using a screwdriver to test the injectors. The copper pipe worked much better than my screwdriver.

Used a spark tester, whatever it is called, and that is good. Interesting note, it does idle rougher than it used to and when I disconnect the power plug to the injector on cylinder 2, it runs the same. But it has spark, and has compression, and you can hear the injector working if you put a 1/2 piece of copper pipe up to it.

Okay compression test shows me at about 120-135k so that looks good. I only did a dry test, 3 runs on the offending cylinder. I have new plugs, new wires, new coil. Did a full synthetic oil change with a K and N filter. Now I can hear the spark plug working when I put a 1/2 piece of copper pipe up to it, is that good enough or do I need to do a voltage test as well? If definitely DOES make some rattling noise on idle sometimes. Goes away when driving. Would the lifters cause low compression though?

I have new plugs, coils and wires, and re swapped them again so those are good. Although the new plug is getting carbon fouled super quick. I am going to grab the stuff for the tests now. What is Valve clatter? It definitely makes some knocking noise on idle that goes away or becomes indistinguishable when driving. Could be electrical upstream I don't know.

Also, is it possible that gas is getting into the oil? It looks like there is a tad too much oil in there and when I last checked I don't think that was the case

I installed brand new plugs, coils, and wires. I did not check fuel pressure or do a compression test. I will do a compression test tomorrow. Should I just change the injector first? I did put a scredriver up to it and can hear it clicking, not sure how accurate that method is. Also I am hoping to fix this myself and not pay someone. Thank you for the help.

Okay so I have a 2008 GMC Sierra with 130 on a 5.3. It's my daily driver and now has some issues. Basically a misfire in cylinder 2 that I would like any good help with before I keep trying new things that might not work. So the stalibitrak and traction control lights also flash and are on regularly which started at the same time. Meanwhile the engine light has flashed for a couple seconds but is usually solid. It is a p0302 misfire. So far I have cleaned the MAF, checked for leaks, changed all spark plugs, coils, and wires, ran some seafoam through it at the brake booster line and some in the gastank. I pulled the new spark plug after it didn't work for inspection and it was very carbon fouled after 3 days and very little driving. It runs good at higher speeds but idles rough and loud I would say klunky. Has not stalled. So Does anyone have any ideas before I keep changing things that are not the problem? 2008 Chevy Silverado/ 08 GMC Sierra 5.3