awright2009

So, looking into videos now, found this one that shows the thermostat and sensor location, not too sure about using teflon tape on there, but a good reference:

Hello, running into this issue now at about 150k miles. Long road trip to the Guadalupe mountains, about one entire fuel tank worth of distance cruising down the highway. Turned truck off that night, no problems, camped near the truck, no noises or leaks that I could tell Headed to the national park visitor center the next morning and when I turned it off the radiator fan kept running. Looked under the hood and didn’t really see anything. Radiator overflow tank had fluid. Suspecting the sensor or the thermostat. The fan turns off eventually. Later that day after hiking the Guadalupe peak I noticed the temp stays at 160 degrees pegged low. I stop at a rest stop not too far away and the same issue, fan turns on, eventually turns off. I got back on the road running the heater full blast, watching oil pressure like a hawk, ambient temperatures were 75F or so high with 50F lows, so not anything extreme. Get to a hotel as I wanted a shower pretty bad at that point. The fans stop again, impossible for them to stop that fast if it were really over heating Next morning after the hotel stay, everything works, temps normal and no radiator fan issue I was ready to replace the thermostat and sensor, but if it works now I won’t bother. I assume the long drive stressed a relay or sensor and normal shorter drives fixed it

I’m at 130k, got the truck at around 36k or so. Part Failures: Rear driver door lock failed AC Condenser failed AC Compressor failed Fuel pump died (but around the mileage they tend to die at) Maintenance items: new front brakes pads around 100k replaced rear brake pads, but old ones still had a lot of meat New Tires (had new ones when bought on it) Replaced brake fluid recently Lots of oil and filters Changed at least once a year if not more, always use Mobil 1 5w30 (Once used Valvoline, but noticed it was in worse shape when drained) New Air filter new cabin air filter Two Batteries Pretty solid so far, not too tempting to upgrade as the trucks are just getting uglier each year imho Edit: Oh yeah replaced the horn once, and maybe a brake light bulb and a turn signal light bulb

Yeah, I'm use to DOT5 in motorcycles that lasts a whole lot longer, I'll do the bike next and I think I'm a believer in terms of flushing brake fluid now, not as frequently as recommended, but definitely not never either. Here's a good video using the same stuff I bought: (Different vehicle though, and I didn't put any brake fluid into the pump as you can keep it clean and just use the reservoir) Here's one on a vette that is similar except for the larger gasket being used:

So, supposedly my motorcycle needs to flush the brake fluid every two years, and it's been 4, so I figure I'd better do that, and also do so without spilling a drop of brake fluid. Eventually I get to thinking I should probably flush the fluid on my truck as it's going on 8 years. -- Normally I'm the type of guy that never flushes brake fluid, but I figure it would be good practice for the motorcycle. I've used those harbor freight hand pumps before, and I do have a mityvac hand pump that I never used, but they kind of suck. For the motorcycle there is an air compressor connected vacuum pump that seems to work pretty good, that I'll likely use for the bike. I also have a C7 Corvette, and those guys use a "Motive Products Power Bleeder" So I figure I would give that a try on the truck, there is one with a plastic cap, and another with a metal cap. Supposedly the metal cap can hold more PSI, so I got the power bleeder with metal cap, and they also make a bleeder bottle for collecting the fluid, I accidentally bought a copy from a company called GENESIS , but it works very well. Anyway, I figure if I'm flushing the brakes, might as well use good fluid as it tends to last a long time. So it seems Castrol "React" SRF is the best, which is better than some fluids even at "wet boiling" which means after it has absorbed some water already. Kind of expensive though, $50 for one liter I took all four wheels off, one at a time, and noticed Discount Tire has air tooled my Gorilla acorn nuts to death, so I put back on the stock lugs that I saved. You can put the bleeder bottle on, get a 2.5mm zip tie and secure it down some past the nipple, then a 10mm to loosen / tighten. I did not use the box end so I can be sure the hose stayed on good throughout the process. I had some trouble with the pump not building pressure at first, I looked inside it and used some of the grease already on it to better seal near the cap, and after a while it would build up to about 4/5 PSI, but I could hear it coming out at the brake reservoir. I was using the small gasket as at first I couldn't get the big gasket to fit on there. On my second try it went on easily, maybe the sun softened the rubber up as it was quite toasty outside. With the larger gasket it would hold pressure and pump more easily, I tended to put it at around 14 PSI. Before attaching the pump I used a turkey baster from walmart to get the old brake fluid out of the reservoir. I ordered a mityvac syringe meant for this, but it was still in the mail and I had everything else. I do not recommend using a turkey baster as it drips fluid like crazy and the brake fluid will 100% ruin the plastic on it, but it got the job done. Remember brake fluid will ruin paint in seconds, so you don't want to be careless with it. So the old fluid looked a little dark gold, but not too bad, except for the driver side front, which had some red rust color to it, I think my bleeder screw was not very tight on this side for some reason, so I expect that it got a lot more moisture in the fluid because of it and started rusting stuff. Interesting to note that the color of the brake fluid in the reservoir can be very different from the color at the calipers So, if you need to bleed the brakes the power bleeder works pretty darn good, (use the big gasket with the metal cap) but the old pump the brake pedal method works great too, albeit you might round out your bleeders quicker using that method. I still dont recommend flushing your brakes unless you have too though, and dont do it yourself unless you've bled brakes before I would say Another note, for the crazy enthusiasts, Harley has stated that you need to actuate the ABS and then bleed again, now I'm sure their recommendation to flush every two years and do an ABS flush every two years is excessive and probably more to drive up for service business. But it had me wondering, how do you even flush ABS? I have never ever done this on a car/truck with ABS or even heard of anyone doing this. Short story is it's probably BS and you dont need or want to do this on Harley's or anything. But essentially with an ODB2 connector you can get a scan tool that has "bidirectional" communication that talks to the ABS module. I got a cheap one off amazon that does this for about $100, I'll probably return it. But it will allow you to actuate pumps on the ABS module and also do an auto bleed. I'm convinced Harley is doing the auto bleed between these two manual brake bleeds. There is a distinction between a "Bleed" and a "Flush" Bleed means get air bubbles out, Flush means push fluid through the lines including the ABS module. The GM service manuals actually describe a ABS flush procedure where they open the bleeders on each wheel and activate ABS while they are open flushing fluid. From what I see on Harley's they dont, they just bleed normally, have the ABS do the auto bleed, the bleed normally again. So that doesn't really flush anything as opening and closing the ABS valves may or may not move any fluid. So my conclusion is that it's probably BS and should be ignored outside of maybe flushing the fluid every now and again... But maybe that explanation is best saved for the Harley forums I figure if you flush your brakes at least once every 10 years you are doing better than 99% of drivers out there... and I'm sure there are a lot of shady mechanics who just refill the reservoir and say they did it

So the price would be for a new compressor, new belt, and a recharge, so my guess is if the belt is damaged it seized up as I doubt the dealer replaces anything they don't absolutely have to, but I'll take a look tomorrow

So, had my condenser leak, like everyone since the part is bad. Dealer replaced it, and I had them replace the AC hose that has the bracket "fix" for it that was October 2020, they have a two year warranty on their work. After the freeze we had here in Texas, the AC went out again. So I took it back to the dealer to figure it out. I noticed the compressor was not running, I think it has a clutch that disengages it when it detects no pressure. They want a $1,007.16 to fix the AC, but don't really tell me what went wrong. I ask if it is holding pressure and if it leaked. They say it leaked from between the clutch and compressor. Which sounds like BS to me, there should be a high pressure hose going out, a low pressure hose going in, and that's about it, maybe some seals. But to me it sounds like they didn't properly vacuum the lines when they replaced the condenser and killed the compressor. So I think it would be stupid to give them more money to mess the job up again. But tomorrow I'm going to take a look at it and probably pick it up. They want $160 for diagnosing it. Replacing the compressor is probably at least $500 just for the part, but maybe it's just a seal around a hose going in or something. Since this happened right after a freeze it seems like it was water expanding that caused it more than anything. Not sure if anyone else has had something similar in terms of their AC system that was not the hose or condenser. Other than the compressor there really isn't much else to it other than where it expands and cools I think. Edit: Oh yeah, 2014 Silverado LTZ crew cab with around 128k miles

And I’ll chalk this one up to the “I should always do things myself” column, picked up from the dealer $1423.15 for new fuel pump installed Breakdown was something like this give or take (not exact from memory left the paperwork in my truck) $169 diagnostic $69 15% shop service fee $400 for part $900 for labor I was expecting $900 total (which even I thought was high) but cost way too much. But it was very convenient as I didn’t have to do anything. Supposedly should be 4 hours of labor, so labor rates must be outrageous

Decent video for changing the pump, different vehicle shown, but it's pretty similar and this one is decent in terms of technique And the fuel pump part number kind of shows the bolt locations in the explode diagram: https://www.chevroletpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-fuel-pump-13513408

Likely the float sensor attached to the pump module, if your pump has a lot of miles I’d replace both as you are already there. But the float sensor can be replaced separately. You can test them with a multimeter too

Just checked the codes again today, without any drama from being stuck in a roadway, turns out there is one more code now: p023F Which is the same set of codes this guy had: https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/191694-truck-stalled-with-fuel-pump-codes/?tab=comments#comment-1862743 Which leads me more to believe it's the fuel pump

Oh yeah, 2014 Silverado 5.7L 127,000 miles, so it's probably due to go out just from age. Maybe the fall season cold morning temperature cycles contributed some. Maybe my old gas was fine, but timing seems suspect, it looked a little green but I dont think it had anything floating in it. Never had any issues with the fuel system before now, I usually run Ethanol, but have maybe 75% gas to ethanol currently, only thing I've really done on the truck was the A/C condenser in terms of service

So, driving to the home depot this morning I didn't get too far, when accelerating the engine died and a check engine light appeared. I was able to restart and limp it closer to home, before finally towing it with the front tow hooks and a strap with my dad's truck. So google says this generic OBDII code is something like: P0232 is triggered when voltage in the fuel pump secondary circuit is shorted to vehicle power through the relay Which searching around on here seems to be related to the fuel pump, which makes sense. I recently put some old gas from my motorcycle and an old gas can into the truck to burn it, this was a tank and a half ago though, so I would have assumed it was all used up. (maybe 5 gallons total of old fuel) I think the gas may have had some stabilizers or cleaners in it, so maybe those loosened some trash up in the tank. But who knows maybe the pump just gave out, but I figured a clogged fuel pump would quickly draw a lot of power causing the ECM to kill it to prevent it from burning itself up. Looking around online, it seems people either drop the tank, or loosen the bed bolts and lift the bed to access the fuel module at the top of the fuel tank. I figure I'll just use AAA to tow it to the dealership and have them fix it, as dropping a tank is always a pain in the behind. I suppose I could try to figure out if this is an electrical problem instead, but I highly suspect a clogged fuel tank. Let me know if I'm on the right track or not, maybe it's not the fuel pump at all

After all the trouble of finding ordering and paying too much for this minor cosmetic thing, turns out the part is backorder and wont be in for months (assuming covid stock issues) so I'll just forget about it for now. Probably better off in the long run as I'm sure it wouldnt be long for the new part to fade

Looking to replace this little plastic piece that goes around the wind shield wipers along with my upcoming new window. Anyone have the part number? (It's the part that goes under the window, looks almost white from UV damage) https://ibb.co/N6XgV10 I believe it's called a "cowl cover" and might be this part number: 23207951