mikeyk101

Don't bother. They are completely useless and I have yet to hear anyone actually helped by them. They come on here about once a month, post that exact same post to various threads only changing the name of the poster and you never hear anything further from them. Oops, I just noticed that now they don't even acknowledge the poster's name that they are "responding" to. If you go to their profile page and look at all their previous posts, you can see exactly what I mean https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/profile/92340-gmcustomerservice/

Take a look here. This is @pgamboa site https://harnessdr.com/product-category/jump-seat-to-center-console-conversion/

I have a feeling that you don't have the full navigation but rather the "turn by turn" navigation. That requires OnStar and then you just hear the directions through the radio. Kind of useless IMHO. That is what came on my 2016. As far as XM radio, I'm not sure but it sounds like it might be an antenna issue. Maybe it became disconnected from the module. These have also been known to have issues with the antenna. Do you have the sharkfin antenna on the outside of roof above driver side?

Ooops, forgot about that one...

Sorry, I can't help with question on springs but... I use Brave as my main browser and it blocks pretty much all the ads not only on this site but pretty much all the sites I use. You might give it a try.

The reality is that many times when these are stolen, they swap out the ECM under the hood with another one. The ECM is tied into OnStar and preprogrammed with your VIN and when swapped out with a different one, OnStar no longer able to "see" your vehicle. It takes all of about 5 mins from when they start the stealing process until they are driving away in your vehicle. GM is fully aware of this shortcoming as well as other issues but turns a blind eye to it...

What about Redarc? They have a knob type brake controller and you can buy one of their dash mounts which will make it look factory. They also have dedicated harnesses that will make it basically plug and play. I will admit I haven't used them before, I have a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 that I mounted to knee panel under the steering wheel. It doesn't look factory but also doesn't look too bad IMHO. https://www.redarcelectronics.com/us/chevrolet/silverado-1500

Mine which is on my 2016 is also a 6L80 and just failed at 96,000 miles. And if you search through this forum, you will find many other 6L80 failures as well. According to what I have found, GM is aware of the problem and just chooses to ignore it. Surprisingly, mine gave no warning that it was failing. Although I tend to have the tunes on all the time while driving so maybe I just didn't hear it. I do recall the rpms jump a little on a few occasions but nothing that seemed out of place. Many have said that the torque converters on these are a poor design and a disaster waiting to happen. If you catch it soon enough before the torque converter fails, you can probably save the transmission. when it fails, it sheds all kinds of metallic shavings into the transmission and then you have no choice but to rebuild it replace it. You can tell if this is happening by dropping the transmission pan and seeing if there are any metal shavings in there. If you're lucky, you won't find any and then think about replacing torque converter with a quality aftermarket one. Some have suggested getting a billet one. Just wanted to add, my 2016 is still covered by the GM Protection Plan. It saved the day a couple weeks ago when my trans failed and they covered the replacement. Because of this, I have only done mild mods to mine. But I was warned that if during inspection if I had oversized tires (mine are just 275/60R20 instead of 275/55R20 so a slight oversize) and/or lift kit, they would have voided my plan and denied the approval to fix. I was told that oversized tires and lift kits put too much strain on the drive train. I'm guessing though that you have no warranty coverage so repairs are on you. But with you re-gearing I will bet that helps some...

RPM jump leads me to think of transmission related. Possibly torque converter? both of those are weak points on these trucks. How many miles are on your truck and do you have a 6 or 8 speed trans?

If that doesn't work, you need to do a little surgery on your own but software upgrade would be easier.

There is a software upgrade TSB 17-NA-269. Check with your dealer about having it done.

That's unfortunate and I agree that there are a lot of variables involved. Your experience with a rebuild is encouraging, thanks.

Up until lately on my 2016, I had some expected issues but nothing major. I had a fuel injector go bad 2 years ago but also had a leak coming from upper oil pan last year which could have been expensive as well as a transmission cooling line leak at same time. Coolant thermostat went bad about a year ago and that was a cheap fix. I had a bearing in front left go bad towards end of last year. I also changed out the rear shocks and front struts recently but consider that just basic maintenance. Biggest problem until recently was a crack in front right shaft housing. I wasn't able to find a reason as to why it happened but that happened during original bumper to bumper warranty and got fixed. A month ago, my starter went bad and needed to be replaced. And just a week ago my transmission failed and required a remanufactured replacement be installed. I am at just under 97,000 miles right now. I did the recommended 50k transmission fluid replacement as well as changed out the transmission fluid thermostat to the updated 70c one a couple years back but still had failure.

Sorry, this is going to be another of my long rambling threads so I'm apologizing at the beginning... I am one that has been using a Range AFM disabler for last couple years as I also wanted to disable the V4. The conventional wisdom is that by running in V8 all the time was that it should help mitigate the collapsed/failed lifters by keeping everything working and oiled all the time. And also for those that changed out exhaust, it kept it from droning sound while in V4. The Range disabler is/was a cost effective way to keep V8 full time but still be able to easily revert back to stock if/when needed. After my recent transmission failure (although not related to V4) I started wondering. I still have the stock exhaust so droning wasn't an issue. But I did like the fact that the Range kept motor in V8 so everything was working all the time. I figured this was a good insurance policy for possible premature engine failure. But now I have been running for a week or so without the Range disabler. I don't really notice the difference when switching between V4 and V8. I have been tracking it by watching the fuel economy screen which I have set to show last 50 miles. I have noticed that I am able to get it into V4 more by driving without cruise control and kind of feathering the accelerator. But this got me wondering about lifter failures based on different styles of driving. Aggressive vs less aggressive. It seems that when driving aggressively, I don't see V4 mode hardly at all. When driving more casually, I see V4 more frequently. Also in areas of even just rolling hills, while going uphill, it's pretty much V8. I can get V4 mostly in areas of steady speeds and flat lands. So would aggressive driving (less V4) actually work as an advantage over less aggressive (more frequency of V4 mode)? So I have been rethinking the use of the Range disabler. I'm in a unique position as I still am covered under the GM Protection Plan on my 2016 for another year or just under 20k miles so I'm not too worried about failure and then needing a replacement. And if it does fail, turns out like my GM reman transmission, it would be covered for 3 years or 100k miles. I am planning on having my 2016 for quite a while. One major weak point component (trans) is now not an issue to my pocketbook forbat least another 3 years. If it does fail again, I will just get another reman but will have the torque converter changed to a better quality aftermarket one right away. If it holds out, (original lasted 8 years) as it gets closer to end of that warranty and still fine, I will replace the torque converter. And although clock is ticking, the motor won't be an issue for another year. I'm hoping that if it's going to fail, it will do it in that time frame. And if it does, I will wait until that warranty on replacement is almost up and then consider doing an actual DOD delete. If it doesn't fail in next year, the DOD delete will be done to ensure many more years and miles of use. So in kind of a long rambling thread, do others here think that aggressive vs no aggressive driving habits have any effect on lifter failures?

What I have done before is pick up some 3M emblem tape. If there are nubs on the back of emblem, cut/grind them off. Take the emblem tape and remove the red tape from one side and then completely cover back side of emblem. Use an exacto knife to cut off the excess around edges and inside any openings on emblem if it's not solid. Take some rubbing alcohol and completely clean the spot you are putting the emblem on to. Make sure the area gets dried, take off the other side of emblem tape and then push emblem on and firmly push on the entire emblem. If done right, it will stay forever.