15silver

I think the steering geometry from what I've been reading is better with the shock than the spacer. The better shocks will make it ride different, but not softer. Better for off road with better damping to reduce motion from uneven surface. I've had shock upgrades do pretty much nothing, to making a world of difference on past vehicles. I'd pull the spacer if you use the shock for leveling, or do a proper lift kit if you want 4-6 (or more) inches. I have RC2" and stock shocks/tires. Nice ride. Added air springs to re-level with load for trailering, and leave about 10psi in em. I find it firmed the ride a bit, but in a good way. Less bouncy I guess. Seems to be less lean in corners, but the ride is still smooth.

the 33" LT tires are adding to the roughness you are experiencing. KO-2's are LT tires and I believe are an 8ply C load range or 10 ply E load range depending on size. Much firmer than the P metric tires that came on the 1500.

click image for full size 2" level kit, stock tires, 17" rims

very normal.

dual zone is a different airbox The A/C, fan, diverter assembly is a different component, and it's a large assembly. The whole IP (dash unit) would need to be removed, and a different "air box" assembly installed. Supported wiring, solenoids .... Really not a home project unless you're a masochist. Nice to have a bit more bling though.

slotted rotors - did that with ceramic pads (supposedly dustless pads) the 'bite' when applying the brakes was very impressive. Much more aggressive than stock. still got brake dust on the rims you do get a whizzing sound of the pads over the slots when braking

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z9ffld8pa65i3y3/truck%20-%201.jpg?dl=0 rainforest

Great advice - just what I'd do. Maybe 400 grit wet sand the rotors as well to dull em up. Can of brake cleaning spray and some rags to clean everything. One thing often overlooked is the pins for the caliper that the pads slide on need to be removed periodically, rust and dirt removed, then lubed with high temp grease. If they are bunged up then the pads dont release fully ... drag and squeal. Havent had mine apart, so they may have a different arrangement than pins ... seen different design where caliper has slots, the pads 'ears' slide in. Same deal ... remove calipers and clean (small wire brush) and service. Care not to get lube on rotor and pads. Only need a film, more to prevent corrosion. Done this service to past vehicles with great results.

Stuffing a diode into a connector isn't professional workmanship. All I'd need to see myself to think whoever did that kind of install was clueless. Opens up the suggestion maybe he poked it into a different hole by mistake and maybe even another until he got it to work. Not saying that's what happened, but seriously - you'd expect a tech to see that kind of mod and think .. 'cool !' ? Other ways to do what you want - eg disconnect the fogs and run through a relay triggered by low beam lights. Power supplied by a fused connection to battery. Run everything in wire loom and use proper connectors and wiring practices. If you don't have the experience to do it right, then dont be surprised when the dealer cries foul.

no I didn't .... great tip. Haven't had the stall again, so am encouraged to keep it in. Will try the battery trick to see if it runs any different.

Just did the AirRaid tube with stock filter performance- cant say there's any difference not disappointed, as I was mainly looking for dress-up options under the hood. negative - can't say this is a direct cause/effect, but I generally drive just brushing the pedal. of course I wanted to see if i felt any difference, so was more liberal with the throttle. while cold, I had a flat spot right (pause) on the start of pushing the pedal down. soon as I got around the block - even mildest warm-up, didn't get that again. never had that before, but then again was driving differently/more aggressively. as long as that was a one off, I'll keep it in, otherwise will revert to stock. sound - maybe just a bit deeper induction noise. Not objectionable at all like an open cone filter. So it passes the sound test. Quiet when cruising, and a bit deeper on heavy accel.

Eibach's site info for the shocks - 2" Summits photo looks like a pic of the rear shock - this is the front shock specs from Eibach's site: # E60-23-006-03-10 Front: +0-2" rha Footnotes: Ride Height Adjustable Ring Slots To Allow For A Lift Of 0-2"

Poor fuel economy? With the larger tires, the speedo/odo counts revs, not distance traveled. Vehicle goes faster/further per rev. IE the speedo is under-reporting your speed. Also under-reporting distance travelled. You will need to apply a correction factor using your odometer's readings to get true mileage. Use a tire size calculator to get the difference between stock and your size. Apply the correction to your MPG calculations.

when I worked at GM, they made 1350 trucks every day at our plant. Even 1 or 2 shifts on Saturdays to boot. There were 2 other truck plants cranking out 2 or 3 shifts worth each. So letting that sink in - any comments on any forum represent a miniscule percentage of the number of produced vehicles in a year. Trying to get any dealer to take a forum's results seriously based on that alone, is pretty optimistic. It is great none the less for folks to share their experiences. Given the different levels of interest one experiences across dealerships, its good to have a resource like this to compare each other's results and see what worked, considering a lot of dealers drop the ball. Personally I'd like to see the manufacturers forced to list the top 20 issues and their success rate of repair. Not likely to happen in my lifetime.

2015 crewcab 4x4 5.3L shortbox. Mine's smooth as glass - or so I thought. Speed limits around me are 55-60 most everywhere. Was going 70+ the other day and suddenly found the vibration. Had to slow to about 55 for it to go away. Could then go back up to 65 no issues. I don't know what to think about that - but sounds like im wasting my time with the dealer and balance. Since its not going to arise often for me, and 99% of my driving is 65 or less I can live with the situation. When I noticed it, I'd say it was a mild imbalance kind of level. Noticable to annoying., esp. if day to day you had to drive 70 on an interstate. 4-5 out of 10, where 10 is sell the dam truck. If I had it constantly at the speeds I drive I'd be upset - so i can feel for those who live in a different area.