truckguy82

Never in my life have I seen an amp, an or an amplified sub not have some sort of its own volume control

From the btr website when looking at the kit you got “THIS CAM IS NOT DESIGNED FOR A 6.2L - THIS IS THE CORRECT CAM FOR THE 6.2L” lol

Rural area - 1 brake application per mile urbun/suburban - 5 brake applications per mile just guessing

No you don’t, but I’ll paypal you $5 if you post a video doing a pull with 1500hp in your truck and hold up a sign saying “i’m an ****” 99.99% chance I will not be doing those things

Because we’ve been on forums for a long time and are not new to these dream builds that never happen. This is a textbook one. 1500-2000hp LS swap is hysterical. Like do you know you’ll be rebuIlding that thing after a few dozen pulls. Maybe 100-150 at most. If it does happen. I’ll be the first to congratulate you. I’ll stop posting negative things in your thread. But you are asking totally different questions than people that actually understand what they are getting into. people with open wallets that don’t have time to build the cars also don’t make forum posts on what parts to buy good luck to you. If it actually happens i’ll be impressed

There a huge difference between bolting on some parts to highly capable sports cars and 4-5x the oem power in a non performance oriented pickup he’s also not just handing over the truck to a shop like your friends. He doesn’t realize what 4-5x the power of stock means. Its not some engine trans/package you plop in.

Yeah but anybody that’s ever owned a highly modified fast car before is fixated on a lot more than HP.

If you want to know how to make 1000hp the easiest, you should be on the c7 vette forums. Unlikely you have the mechanical knowledge to do this if you were considering LS swapping thinking it was the easiest option. Pretty funny you just want to slap in 1500-2000hp to an oem chassis truck with what looks like no consideration for brakes or suspension. I don’t know if you understand what that much hp is like, especially in 5500lb pickup truck. It’s not a 1500hp viper that can already turn and stop above 1g. For your own sake. I would just let a shop handle it. if street driven, i’d first find out what the transfer case can hold, because 1000hp+ rwd pick up the street is going nowhere fast without a full drag setup. Maximum safe power while retaining awd should be your target unless it’s a dedicated drag car which means you probably shouldn’t start with a k2xx to begin with.

1500-2000hp? Yeah you’re missing a tube frame chassis and chutes.

And how did they flow through it when there is a thermostat that blocks the flow if the temperature is below 190.

Yeah except you can’t do that on our trucks unless you flip the pill. The thermostat prevents flow.

Bilstein 5100’s take away that feeling of bottoming out the suspension anytime you hit a pot hole or speed bump. Rough guess they are 10 percent stiffer while normal driving and little bumps, and 50-75% softer when you hit a large bump. It goes from the worst suspension I’ve ever felt for hitting a speed bump to what it should have been like from the factory. It will not be a tahoe though, need different spring rates for that.

Don’t bother, no apple carplay anyway. just use a usb-c car charger and connect to the car via bluetooth. I also have a 2014 slt which is the same infotainment. The usb-c charger for the iphone is about 10x faster charging. The built in port I believe only charges at 1/2amp, which is about what modern phones actually use running a map playing music. I’ve had my battery actually go down while plugged into the trucks usb port.

Which I never understood because the same motor and trans in the corvette and Camaro is amazing. The 1-2 shift feels like you got rear ended. Thankfully I have the 6.2 with 6 speed. Which is nice but can’t handle mods.

Yeah, but it was all recalls. Only legit problem I know of is the AC system. The AC system really pissed me off.