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dwchapmanjr

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About dwchapmanjr

  • Birthday February 13

Profile Information

  • Name
    David C
  • Location
    Houston, TX
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2015 Yukon Denali 2WD

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  1. You may want to start a new thread. This one is specific to the 8 speed which has a few lawsuits against it and your issue may get mixed up in that. Frustrating to hear you're having to deal with it. I had to deal with it for 2-3 years on my 8 speed before the new fluid finally fixed it. I'm 2 years out on the new fluid and was hopeful the 10 spd was going to be better. Good thing you got a pico scope done on it. I have never been able to get that done for various vibrations.
  2. Yes, if you have a valve body code they may replace/open it up. 99% of the shudder issue are fixed by either fluid and/or TC replace which doesn't require valve body work/replacement or any tear down. The TC is just a mostly enclosed unit that mounts between engine and transmission and allow power transfer from engine to transmission.
  3. Should be no reason to take out/replace/open up valve body for the TC issue unless you have another unrelated issue like bad transmission fluid temp sensor and you have the one piece harness.
  4. Relatively speaking the TC replacement is pretty non invasive. Engine and transmission do not have to be torn down to replace. TC is just the part that connects engine to transmission. I was definitely concerned about my transmission being town down at my original dealer until I realized it was just a TC replacement.
  5. This is more important than you realize. I purchased my vehicle from a GMC dealer and they had no idea what they were doing with this when it happened. Granted it was early on and PIP5337 was only at D. But they had it 1 week and said it was another 2 week wait time for a tear down of the transmission eventhough they knew about PIP5337D and it did not specify a tear down. Brought it to another dealer. They started with the flush and told me it was a first step and that if it still happened it would likely be a TCC replacement (best information at the time). I eventually got my TCC replaced and it worked for a year. After that they were well aware of the new fluid. Point of the story is you can take it to any GM dealer. Try to find a reputable one that has been there for a while. Talk to the service advisor and ask them about this issue and see how knowledgeable they are about it. Call a few dealers. Some may be a hike. I have 2 dealers on my way to this dealer I go to that would be more convenient.
  6. Oh for sure. I did one of the fronts myself but the fronts do require a little more skill and care. The hardest part about the fronts though were the connector and the pick tool!
  7. Well except for the spring compressor which many people don't feel comfortable using on such heavy duty springs. And if you actually swap the magnetic ride front shocks, the connector can be quite a pain to transfer.
  8. I think it depends on how bad it was and when it was manufactured. If you drove on it a long time with the shudder it probably did start to shred the TCC. I'm nearly 2 years on the new fluid and its the longest its ever lasted without recurring so in my mind it is solved. I have been through 2-3 other fluid changes. My TCC was also replaced early on when they though tit was a manufacturing defect. I'm about 3 years out on the new TCC. During the time they thought it was a manufacturing defect there was some unsubstantiated rumor of it for 2015 and 2016. May be true, may not be.
  9. Mine started about a year after I purchased it and maybe 9k miles, no towing. I imagine in more humid climates its worse of an issue because the fluid will attract more moisture.
  10. Awesome, yeah I'm nearly 2 years in on mine since the new fluid and its been great! I started having this issue when it was first documented as PIP5337A (they went half way up the alphabet on revisions).
  11. Likely my last post. Dealer took it for a drive on a known smooth surface and they could still slightly detect it but said they've just had complaints bout this particular tire type/tread(Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza). Said I should likely replace with some Michelin tires the next round. That the tires on there are perfectly balanced but this type of tire has this complaint. Unless I want to cough up $900 or so for a new set, it'll probably be a few years unless this gets worse. Dealer has been reputable and knowledgeable so I believe them and for my sanity (if there's any left), it has gotten good enough to live with (for now). Interestingly with the cold weather and transmission work I had done its better. We'll see how that holds up.
  12. This ended up being the fluid sensor and they replaced the harness and changed fluid due to having to drop the pan. Rides much better and gets up to temp as expected.
  13. My 2015 had the shake about a year in and it took about 2 years for them to find a permanent fix with the new Mobil HP fluid. I went through quite a few flushes and even a TCC replacement but the Mobil HP flush I had done early 2019 fixed it. The issue with the other fluids is that moisture builds up and causes increased friction. You don't mention your mileage but in my maintenance schedule it indicates 45k miles for fluid and filter change which I imagine for a 2018 you're probably close to that.
  14. Sounds like the old TCC shudder - Make sure they're aware of 16-NA-355 - https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10163890-9999.pdf They'll likely need to flush transmission fluid. If your TCC is shot, procedure is to flush first and see if it comes back and if so likely replace TCC. Around 1250RPM the torque converter doesn't completely lock, its pulsated and light acceleration causes a bit of slippage with the old transmission fluid due to moisture in the fluid. It can also be exacerbated by AFM kicking on and off around the same RPM. You'll get a different shudder when it switches and M7 typically deactivates AFM.
  15. Long history but short of it is long standing vibration seems to be related to tire temperature. 2015 GMC Yukon. New Tires (Bridgestone Dueler HL) 1/31/2020 w/Alignment. They noticed front right strut was leaking and replaced. Vehicle seemed to drive without issue for at least 2-3 months. COVID-19 hit and I hardly drove anywhere for a few months. There was a month span where my truck left the garage only a handful of times. Tires have 3k miles on them despite being 9 months old now. Around July I started driving a bit more and I noticed a pretty bad road vibration and started looking at remaining shocks. Replaced 2 years and it seemed to help as they were leaking and then remaining front strut as it was leaking hoping this would resolve my issue. Took it to the dealer and they road force balanced and rotated, not finding any suspension or tire issues. When I drove away, there was a hard pull to the left. Took it to local shop as I figured it was an alignment but alignment was dead on. They road force balanced and rotated and pull went away. I later found out one of the tires had conicity and was replaced and pull went away. This week in Houston we had a bit of a cold front and I noticed it was driving back to normal, like earlier in the year. Yesterday I was driving around and noticed as soon as the tires started to heat up to 38psi (Cold tire pressure is 35psi), the vibration started to get worse so I pulled over and deflated 2 psi. Next tire got up to 38 and vibration started and I did the same thing and it went away for 10 minutes but came back as the tires seemed to warm up and inflate more due to that. Today I drove trying to reproduce and it seemed to drive better than yesterday and took about 40 mins to get some vibrations that were not even as bad as they have been before. Am I working out some flat spotting? Or is it possible that some tires that have issues that show when they warmed up? Or is it possible I have a suspension issue that slightly under-inflated tires are masking? I plan on going back to the dealer and have them run a picoscope to confirm the source of the vibration and look again. Questions I should be asking them, things I should verify they're checking, etc? This issue has been driving me crazy for months and seems to be going away on its own due to cold temp (55-60F in the mornings, high of 85F) versus the triple digits we were getting in the summer. Looking back at the Jan-March timeframe it would have been around the same temp here so I'm wondering if I'm exposing a temperature related issue with the tires that shows up when the ambient temp is much warmer or the tires have a chance to get hotter. I have the full story documented here before I even thought it might be tire related
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