StretchASU

Hardly surprised. Just more of a statement on how people aren't held accountable for shit these days.

Thank god for this thread. Add another one to the list. 2016 with 80k miles. Going to take it in to get tested during the next oil change in a week or so and see what the dealer will do. If I get told to just pound sand, I'll just get it diagnosed and replace what is necessary. Its absurd that this many vehicles have issues and nothing is being done about it.

DiabloSport Intune i3 added today. Have a couple hundred mile road trip this weekend with a little of everything mixed in. looking forward to seeing the differences.

Stock was 18 city 20.5 highway averages Leveled, bottom of air dam removed and 295/70/17 Toyo RT's and its 16.5 city and 18.5 highway averages. Hand calc'd.

And from what I saw in my months of looking before and after I bought a truck, those people never seem to report back with long term reports on how ball joints and TRE's handle the extra stresses of those "successful" kits. It's the ones that say "I put this 3"+ leveling or budget lift on my truck and realize I effed up" then come looking for the advice that already litters this board and can be found with a simple search. Those of us that actually heed the great advice on the board should at least get to have a little fun at someone's expense while we correct their issues.

I think at some point, we just let the ignorant weed themselves out. Can someone sticky an "I Told You So" Thread? It will be filled with How do I fix my 3" leveling kit and budget "Lift" kit questions.

Keep it under 2.5" and you're fine on stock components. The geometry really gets out of whack after you go above 2.5".

In the end, no matter what kit, the geometry is the same as the mounting points are all retained. The design of the MotoFab kit makes it a little more cumbersome to re-install the strut if you use a top spacer only. You basically fight tension on the lower shock bushing. Not a big deal for a street truck. But that is why you see all the high end coilovers utilize a uniball style shock eye on the lower side. It just allows the strut to move more naturally rather than fighting a rubber bushing.

Only VERY slight rubbing of the fender liner at full lock in reverse. Not even enough to warrant ziptying the liner back until the next time I am under the truck.

I'll snap a few more tomorrow. I actually prefer the look of the smaller wheel, as long as it's something with some substance to it. These, Raceline monsters, Walker Evans legends etc. not a lot of little spokes. That's probably from my off-roading background too. No offense to anyone on here with them, but just about every truck in my area has 20" Fuel Mavericks or something very similar and I wanted the complete opposite.

Disclaimer: I have been wrenching on my vehicles for a long time and just about anything short of serious engine work is in my wheel house. So take my assessment with a grain of salt. Installed the one on my truck at the top of the page the other night. Nothing other than some basic hand tools, a floor jack, hammer and some jack stands. Ratchet wrenches make the upper strut bolts a breeze. Did one side at a time. 3 hrs start to finish with a dinner break and I wasn't in a rush at all. Just go get an alignment after for $80 and save some coin on the install. Its an easy project. Have a 1/2" electric impact and you can cut some serious time out of the project. Follow MotoFab's directions and it goes smooth. There are a few little things that I will scrutinize about the kit, but its just nitpicky stuff. I would still recommend the kit to any K2xx owner. 1) The 2.5 kit that uses only an upper spacer is intended for you to install the strut 180* from how it is originally placed in the truck. (I assume any of their upper spacer only kits are the same) In theory this should work, but the lower shock mount is clocked about 10* to match the angle of the lower control arm at standard ride height. When you re-install the strut 180* out, the angle of the lower mount does not align with the upper and you have to push the strut back into the tower AND jack the control arm up at the same time. Kind of cumbersome, but not a big deal. Just annoying. If I did it again, I would just pull the front end apart and switch the struts left and right to solve that problem. From looking at the part numbers, there isn't anything special about valving or spring rates as far as I can tell so it shouldn't affect the truck one little bit. I could go into a whole thing about shock/strut placement and angle, but at the end of the day, for a street truck that occasionally sees some dirt, no big deal, so I wont over-complicate it for the masses. 2) The upper strut mount hardware they supply is specified as 16mm, mine was 17mm. No big deal, just a different socket.

295/70R17 Toyo RT 17x8 +0 4.5"BS XD RG1's

Smoked the sidewall of one of the stock SRA's at the hunt camp a few weeks back. Figured it was a good excuse to level and upgrade.