mgoodling44

Good afterenoon, and happy new year to everyone. I have a issue that I cannot seem to nail down. I have a rim that is leaking air at the bead with new tires. I've been told that the rims needs to be replaced. My issue is that I cannot locate the rim/style/design of what exactly it is to find a replacement. The stealership offered up a $576 rim, but seriously, that's seems out of control. I'd be happy to use an aftermarket replica or go to the junk yard and pick up a used one. attached is a pic of the rim, but I cannot find any specs to use other than the dimensions. Can anyone tell me the style, name or design of this rim? Rim is 20x9, factory (I believe it is listed as "design 3"). 2014 GMC Sierra. 275/60/r20's.

Crap, I see this post is in the wrong forum. Sorry about that, but any info out there would be nice to hear..... If a mod could move to the correct forum, i'd appreciate it.

2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE; 5.3L So, I was having a malfunctioning shutter in the passenger side headlight. I replaced both headlight assemblies with OEM parts. The only difference was that the original headlight assemblies were a 9012 type bulb, and the new assemblies are 55w H7 bulbs. Got everything tore apart, new assemblies in, and reassembled. Problem.....check engine light is on. Won't go off. If this is related to the different bulbs, how can I get the check engine light to go off?

Are there any known conversion to replace the single bulb projector to a two bulb headlight assembly. I really do not like the single bulb projector one the 14-16's. I wish I would have thought about this prior to buying, but you never test drive in the dark. My mistake. Just looking for options. Any help is appreciated.

So, I've read through this thread, and it sounds like if you have a 2014 model, that you cannot project android auto to the screen. Is that correct, or did I misread?

Changing to a different language, and then back to English also fixed my issue. Good find, and great advise. I was told by the "stealership" that the only thing that they could do would be to hook up to diagnostics ($55) and then determine if a software upgrade was needed ($80). This fix noted above worked for me. Very simple. On the screen, select HOME, then SETTINGS, the LANGUAGE. Select another language, exit out. Go back through the same steps, and select English. Suddenly, voice commands are working, as intended. Thanks again for the help. Intelllink Voice commands not working.

Just my $0.02. If you are concerned about driving back to a stealership, or spending money on the tool, just keep the pressure the same in all tires. If one drops a bit, stop and have them checked for equal pressure, or do it in your garage. Yes, I understand it's a really crappy set up with GM vehicles (among many other things I hate about my GMC.....vibration, shift pattern, etc.), but nonetheless, not a big deal. I think the only answer, if it bothers you that much, is either spend the money at the stealership, or buy the tool. Personally, for me, I could care less.

smcgillis10 Just watched you video, and mine is NOTHING like that. That is crazy. Wow. Just a quick update from me. I'm taking matters into my own hands. The Stealership will not get another dime from me. Next steps are taking to an independant differential/transmission/rear end shop. The owner told me that they will check the operating angles and pinion angles, and if needed after driving, ensure that the pinion is set properly. A friend of mine noted that sometimes a heavy gear oil in the rearend can help with vibrations. Anyone mess with that yet? As a reminder, mine is vibrating between 45-60 mostly. In full deceleration/coasting, it is the worst. I can reduce the vibration by placing into neutral, and/or playing with the throttle, just enough to not coast, but not accelerate either (now what I mean?). I have Michelin LTX's, 500 miles. Still vibrating.

Just out of curiousity, what is the u joint bolt torque specs?

Oh, I might add, another $275 down the drain because the "tire issue" isn't covered under warranty, and I didn't buy the tires from the dealership.

Update. Stealership still says "tires". PICO scope show tires are the problem. So, now....it's back to the tire dealership to fight with them to get (2) new rear tires that the GM stealership claims that they can't balance. This shoudl be fun..... Now keep in mind, as I drove home today, driving about a 48 MPH, the vibration started...so I ever so slightly pressed the accelerator, and it stopped, then picked up again. Can someone explain to me how in the world this is tires? But, at this point, I've chosen this path. So round and round we will go.

Best of luck. Sounds like you have a good partner to assist with your concern. I have a sneaking suspicion that you will be back to forum, with similar stories like the 600+ pages that you read over in this thread. I hope it works out for you. Please keep the folks informed, as there are LOTS of people affected and praying for a valid solution.

My Canadian friend, best of luck. I'm at the point that I don't trust the dealership. I have found that they have inexperienced "techs" and that they are directed to follow a protocol that leave the consumer (you and I) holding the money bag. In my two month of ownership of a GMC 2014 Sierra, it's been nothing but a major disappointment. To give you the bottom line, here are your options: 1. Continue to play the cat and mouse game with the "stealership". You will end up forced to buy/replace parts that their "techs" claim is the issue. Probably end up in $2-$3k range before you can get a lawyer and file a lemon law claim. By the way, at this point, you can't trade in, because all the service records are available to the other dealerships on your truck that show all the work being done and the owner's (you) service requests. 2. Try and figure it out on your own. Find a good trusted person, with good tools, and diagnose yourself and do the work. Yes, it will take time and money, but it better than getting work done by the dealership. Be patient and just use good mechanical sense. Again, probably looking at $2-$3k for specialist/independant shops to assist, and again, you may still not have solved the problem. Risk vs. Reward. This is what I'm leaning towards. 3. Just stop now. Stop messing with it, cut your loses, and move forward. Sucks, but it is reality. We (GM owners in the middle of this shi! storm) are left with nothing to do but suck it up. We made a bad decision for a bad product, and now we are screwed financially. The truck has so many good features, but the vibration/wobble is trumping the good things. Once you accept it, your decision making will be much easier. At this stage of the game, you are damned if you do, damned if you don't. I can tell you that I wish my father (a GM diehard) was still alive. He'd even been disappointed, but a bet that he would find the issue and be able to fix it. He was master mechanic, and as long as i've been alive, he could fix anything. Literally, a mechanical genius. So, I'm probably going to eat about another $3k, just to determine if my pride is worth is it. I'm self diagnosing, in hope that we can find a fix. If you are not willing to commit, simply trade it in for another brand (sorry Dad). Best of luck. Sad, but true....

Just complete the 2nd trip to the dealership. They replace the hitch (recall) which was good. I was told that the 'tech' (and I use that loosely) said that the vibration was caused from the fuel in the tank moving around. LOL. Seriously, that was the diagnosis. Oh, and that it as "normal vibration for a pick up". Then they proceeded to try and give me a document of the "GM Announcement" that the noise I was feeling hearing was normal. LOL. This is so ridiculous, that I really can't make this crap up, even if I tried. Wow. So, I calmly explained that I didn't acknowledge a clunking sound, or a thud, or a sudden jerking. I politely explained that as it was documented on my call with the service 'guy', (and yes, it is documented), that the vibration was not diagnosed, and that I would be happy to take the tech with a drive and show him exactly what I'm feeling. They agreed, reluctantly. I even heard the one of guys in the shop say "this is bullsh!!", as one of the other employees opened the door and walked through. So, from here, what can I expect? I also explained to him what I felt is was. Hopefully, I didn't show my cards too soon. I guess I don't know what they will come back with. There are several scenarios. I explained that in my opinion, it was drive train related, probably related to the ring and pinion or bashlash related. He told me that he would pass that along (yeah, okay). I also asked him if they had checked the pinion angle and drive shaft balance as I requested. He saisd that since it wasn't on the work order, and there wasn't anything pointed that direction, that he did not. Hmmm...... So, back in 3 days from now with a tech with me for a first hand experience. Any advise on what to expect or how I should approach these guys after the drive? What are reasonable demands/requests that I can ask for without breaking the bank?

Well said. And I agree with everything that you've said. I, too, and not a mechanic, but fairly mechanically inclined. However, after reading the feedback from the post, and documenting all my issues in a log (trans temp, outside temp, vibration speeds, etc), my approach is simply this. GM/Dealerships will have a protocol to follow in diagnosis. We have to accept that. I get it. We have to be diligent, and demand with the dealership that the issues are not resolved, and document concerns on the service records. Enact Lemon Law when eligible, if desired. Or continue to self diagnose and try to find a fix for this. I'm leaning towards the latter. As baffling as it is, it is a challenge. Here is where I'm at in the game: Dealership said it was 100% tire related. I bought new LTX AT/2's. Still have vibration. Going back into the dealership tomorrow. Requesting to have drive shaft validated (balanced) Requesting to have pinion angle validated Requesting to have shocks inspected and tested. Here's what I think (logically), at least for my particular truck. * The ring and pinion are a very sensitive set up. My symptoms are leaning that way (more of a vibration with decelerating/coasting, 45-55 mph.) Could be the carrier bearing (thanks to the forum for the education). Upon deeper investigation, this appears to be the obvious target. The question is how do I get the dealership onboard? Torque converter would be my next option (this is what I originally thought it was). Now I'm leaning towards the ring/pinion/carrier bearing.