66deadhead

Great information and pics pgamboa. Wish I would of came across your post sooner. It certainly would of been helpful upon discussion with the dealership. It’s like pulling teeth to get them to fix this problem. Thanks

Another update, my 2016 now has 34,500 miles on it. Tried the hose clamp fix at around 18 k miles. It worked well for awhile, had to tighten and adjust a few times, but at around 30 k miles it started moving again. Couldn’t take it anymore so I took it into the dealer to try and get it repaired again before the warranty ran out. First try they said they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. And couldn’t find any service bulletins on the seat issue. I swallowed and moved on. It started clicking again almost immediately after I picked it up. Took it back to dealer again. After much persistence on my part demanding there is a problem and it needs fixed, I was able to get it to make the noise in front of the service advisor who confirmed it was definitely moving. They kept it for 2 days. Just got the truck back last night. It seems pretty solid now and so far no movement. They found document # 4683074 for the condition. They are calling the part a lateral retainer, that fits on the seat frame. The part # is 13405675. The document stated that there still could be some slight movement after installing the retainer. I hope this helps anyone else that may be having the same problem.

Late update, had the dealer fix the seat movement at around 5,500 miles, the tech spent about 5 hours on the seat, they said he Re-torqued all the screws and bolts. Got it back and it's been fine, with no problems........ until now, I now have about 18,000 miles on it, and about 3 weeks ago it started slightly moving again. It's gotten worse now to the point I feel it around every turn. Very annoying. I guess this is going to be a ongoing issue every 12K miles or so. I'm probably going to have them try and fix it again since it's in warranty. They had it for a full day last time, but I don't have a spare vehicle at the moment, and cant really be without my truck for a day right now. So I may try the hose clamp fix trick that's out there on it instead. Got a feeling GMs fix is only gonna be temporary anyway, since it's moving again. I know there is a shim kit fix for the 14-15s with mixed results. They told me last time the shim kit won't work on a 2016 when I mentioned it to them. Does anyone know if GM has a tried and true fix for the 2016s as of yet????

First off, I have not read this entire thread. But I think I read somewhere that the door is designed to not fully close and it is to remain slightly open intentionally from the factory. I am not certain what their reason is for doing this, but... because I am a commercial/ industrial HVAC & Refrigeration technician by trade for many years, the first reason that comes to my mind is, it is left slightly open intentionally because of a possible buildup of Co2 in the cabin. Co2 buildup can make you sleepy and that's not good if your driving a automobile. Most commercial Rooftop units, and room ventilators have a minimum of 10% fresh air that's always entering the airstream because of this. No matter the season of the year. This is especially true for offices and student classrooms , and those types of environments can be bringing in up to 15-25% fresh air into the main air stream at all times.

Also, if I may add, I found it very interesting after speaking with my service manager about this topic, that at 37-38K miles, My dealer recommends a upper induction and valve cleaning on the engine. Apparently they have a special tool / machine that heats up each cylinder through the spark plug port, and burns all those nasty oil deposits that you didn't need a catch can for , right off your valves. Like it pretty much never happened. I believe this service costed about $180.00. This service is offered Just 1-2 K miles out of the 36K mile warranty...., imagine that. Who would of thought. Probably wouldn't hurt to mention that to them and see if they offer this service.

Agreed that it would be in your own best intrest , and wise to talk to your service manager before you install a catch can. If anything ,you'll get a reaction from them, and maybe have a better understanding of where they stand with one. I done so with my dealership for just that reason before I bought one. My dealer told me that it was not really nessaccery to add one, but wasn't against the idea either. He said the Chevy Traverse has a real problem with valve/ engine deposits. And if I owned one of those he would definitely recommend one. So yeah, I felt them out on the idea, before I I bought and installed one. Definitely a good idea so you know what you may be up against as far as future service appointments. As far as the technician not being the same tech as the one that works on the bigger service problems.. I agree and understand this. But at the same time, I like to try and have a little faith in my dealership service department, and hope that that new hire from Jiffy lube , made it this far because he has enough sense to ask a fellow/senior coworker with more experience ( or service manager ) to give him some guidance to resolve this simple problem. Because, after all, he probably doesn't want to be changing oil and doing lube jobs the rest of his life. ( one would hope anyway) . But I guess this could be a problem ,depending on your dealership and where you live.I wouldn't overthink it or get too parinoid about it. Evaluate your dealership, then go from there.

I understand, and It's certainly your prerogative to do so if you wish. As far as filling it with oil, I don't think it's really that hard to do. You push the fitting in on the clamp, and remove the hose from the CSS, use a crescent wrench if needed and remove the CSS from the valve cover oil port, and then grab a funnel if needed and fill with oil. Then screw the CSS back in, and pop the hose back on it. Done. I figure if the dealer can't figure this out, I have much bigger problems. Lol. After all, these service techs at dealerships are removing motors, transmissions, and rebuilding and/or replacing them if needed. Not to mention many other forms of complicated service procedures. a CSS certainly wouldn't be to much of a brain teaser for them...... or would it?

After first installing it, I thought about removing it also when it needed to go in for service. Then after time passed I thought, screw that !! I'm not taking this thing off and putting it back on every time it has to go to the dealer for any problem or service. So I decided not to , and take a few minutes and educate them on what it was, and what it does on the first visit if needed. Life is to short to be worried about every little thing or problem, every single day. I have more important worrys in my life that take priority over a aftermarket catch can. It would only take a few minutes to explain to them, or even show them what they need to know or do. Far easier to take the time explain it to them, than to remove and reinstall on every trip to the dealer.

This is a valid question, and I was also concerned about this. I was at the dealer a few weeks ago for some service including oil change, and I assume they had no problems. I waited at the dealership while the service was being done and they said absolutely nothing to me about it. I figured if there was any type of problem they would of came out to the waiting area and questioned me about it. They did not. I guess in reality how hard can it be with the quick release fittings? I mean, it's the original stock type fittings that already exist. Another note, when service was completed I popped the hood to make sure everything was back to the way I had it and was originally. And it was. No problems and everything was just Hunky Dory.

The catch is probably the interest rates and the terms of borrowing. A lot of times if you are late on just one payment your interest rate will go sky high, putting you right back where you originally were... in debt. I would definitely read the terms carefully, and the small print. Credit companies are in business to make money from you, not get you out of debt.. If at all possible I would try to work with your bank on some sort of a personal loan that you can make work.

It was proven, but it was a bit more complicated than that. To finalize the divorce and to be able to get the house sold before it went to a sheriffs sale, (as she basically stopped paying everything ) and umong many other problems to avoid a complete nuclear shitstorm, like lowering the house price to sell quickly, and taking a hit on that too. (= more debt/money owed) I had to agree to each of us paying the credit balances that we had in our own names. I was an inch away from claiming bankruptcy, but my lawyer strongly directed me not to do that. I couldn't even retain a realtor to sell the house without her signature, due to the fact that we were still married and everything was joint. Even though she was the only one still living in the house and missing her share of the mortgage payment as a regular monthly occurrence. Like I said, it was really nasty. Not enough money in the world to walk in those shoes again.

After being 20-25K in credit card debt due to a very nasty divorce, as she racked all my cards up to the max. I found if your just trying to pay off your credit cards, a consolidation loan would probably be your best bet. Providing your credit is still good enough to get one. ( mine was not due too missed payments per the Ex) If you go this route you will wanna stop using your credit cards immediately. 2 cd option would be that You can try to settle with the credit card companies to lower your balance. If you settle with a credit card company for a lower balance though, it will usually kill any remaining good credit you have, to the point you won't be able to buy a pair of shoestrings on credit, even if you wanted too. If this is not a option, I suggest you you start with your lowest amount card first and pay it off and only paying you minimum payment on the others until the lowest is paid off. Then go to the next lowest and pay as much as you can monthly on that one till it's paid off, continuing to pay minimum payment on the others. If you keep doing this you will eventually get to the last/ highest card and be able to pay as much as you can monthly to pay it off completely. Keep in mind, this will take a long time, and you will have to focus and be persistent, and continue to make good financial choices in the meantime. (There will be many sacrifices, and you will basically have to live off only the cash you have available). It took me 5-6 years to do this and get completely debt free and start to rebuild my credit. But it was well worth it. And I do not own a credit card to this day. As I don't need to. I bank all my cash in a savings account and draw from that when needed, and replenish it on the next payday when I'm able. It can be done, and I wish you the very best of luck with your financial troubles.

Great information Joe, noted and thank you for the reply. You just made my life a little easier

Have the same can. I think you have to back out the side hose barbs on the can to get it opened, as the barbs interfere with getting the guts out if the are screwed in to far. I read they recommend to clean the inside of the can every 6 months, so there must be a way. I was able to get mine partially apart , but not all the way out. Gonna wait for warmer weather and try again.

After much searching online for a nice catch can set up, I went wth this one. I bought this kit for my 2016 5.3 back in early November only in black. This kit is definitely top notch, looks great under the hood, and it just doesn't get any easier to install. The factory fittings on the hoses really make this kit look top notch professional. UPR has great customer service, they respond quickly, and will help you with any problems or concerns you may have. This kit has been functioning great since I put it on, and has caught a lot of oil already that I don't want going back into my intake. I definitely recommend this catch can set up to anyone thinking of purchasing a catch can. I would buy. This kit again. Money well spent.