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alvocado

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  • Name
    Allen
  • Location
    Cincinnati, OH
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2011 GMC Yukon SLT

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  1. Confirmed: evap line on top of fuel tank had a loose connection after the pump replacement. Tightened connection, no faults.
  2. I'm getting two codes one month after a shop replaced my fuel pump, p0455 and p219a. Truck has 203k miles and no other issues. This was the second pump in 3 mos after the first pump had a defective sending unit. The shop is using a Delphi unit. With an evap leak and fuel trim imbalance, does this likely point to the pump (fuel vapor hose, seal at the top of tank, etc?) I'll schedule a return with the shop but want to make sure they aren't recommending fuel injectors or other parts when this is pointing to a pump installation issue. I ran live diagnostics and didn't see any issues with fuel trim levels, no misfires, etc.
  3. New manifold bolts and a gasket did the trick. The exhaust flange nuts are relentless at being a PIA to get off. I got two off with MAP gas but the one with the worst access rounded and turned into a mess before finally getting some bite with a second bolt extraction kit. That alone burned two hours.
  4. I bought replacements from tpms.com and was very happy. They sell OE supplier parts and the customer service was very helpful. The cost for a set of four was about the same as one sensor at the tire shop.
  5. Isn't this the same topic as your separate post from Sept 2022 running parallel in the replies?
  6. There is a metal tab that makes contact with the battery and it can get bent causing intermittent or no response from the fob. I'd rule that out first. I had the issue after swapping the board over to a new key fob case.
  7. Here's a link to a very inexpensive relearn tool: GM Relearn Tool I've been tempted to try it for $9.
  8. I stand corrected. I missed the farthest back bolt and the head is in fact gone. That explains the leak and the noise. Looks like I'm pulling the exhaust manifold this weekend. For those who've dealt with this, is there any risk the manifold is warped or should it be fine to reuse and simply replace all the bolts and gasket?
  9. No broken bolts. I had that on a previous 6.0l and had to remove the head to get the bolt out. It was the bolt closest to the firewall, snapped off just below the head surface and I couldn’t get anything on it.
  10. I'm getting a louder than normal exhaust sound and it seems to be forward in location. I sprayed some soapy water on the exhaust manifold and did a cold start. Soap bubbled where the manifold meets the head at the rear most location on the driver's side and stopped when the manifold heated up (within about 30 secs.) Is it normal for a small amount of exhaust gas to pass the manifold gasket at startup when cold or is the soap bubble a sign that the gasket is allowing exhaust gas to pass once the manifold heats up? With a metal gasket, I assume there is some expansion when hot that would help seal the connection. I'm trying to determine if this is the issue or if the factory exhaust has a leak elsewhere (200k miles on it.)
  11. Oil and all drivetrain fluids were changed last week/1000 miles ago. No codes. I took the fuel trim readings while driving around the block so low speed only.
  12. I’m trying to diagnose what’s causing a noticeable drop in gas mileage and have a question regarding some scan data related to assessing the fuel injectors. Mileage on two recent 500 miles trips was down 3-4 mpg. 2011 Yukon 5.3, 200k miles. Plugs and wires have 50k on them, air filter is clean, O2 sensors have been replaced. Fuel pump was replaced in September. LT FTRM1 is reading -5.5% and LT FTRM2 is -6.3%, both indicating rich running condition. ST FTRM bounces as from approximately-15 to +15%. Fuel pressure reads 44 psi on both sides. Any advice on interpreting the data and confirming if the injectors are an issue would be appreciated.
  13. There's enough clearance to get the bottle level and pressure squeeze most of the fluid into the diff by hand. I could feel the fluid level just below the fill hole with my finger so it filled up too quickly.
  14. One additional note: I drained the differential with the truck on a pair of jack stands and filled with it flat on the ground. I didn't think that would result in fluid remaining in the housing but it's the only explanation I can think of.
  15. 2011 GMC Yukon SLT 4wd: I changed all of my drivetrain fluids today and could only get about 4/5 qt of 80w90 back into the front diff. The truck was on the ground and level when filling and I expected at least a qt. before it started running back out of the fill hole. I changed it 50k miles ago and don't recall having an issue underfilling. Any reason why the fill capacity would be so little?
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