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MoonDogg

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About MoonDogg

  • Birthday 08/24/1980

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  • Name
    Corey
  • Location
    Hot Springs, AR
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2016 Silverado LT Z71 4X4 Crew Cab

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  1. I just recently replace my front Diff in my 2016 and had to remove the steering rack. I don't remember it being very difficult. I did use a pneumatic impact to get it off though.
  2. It's easy to put the factory hose back and take the catch can out, there is no way they can prove you had one.
  3. OK read through about 20 or so of the 344 pages... here is what I want to do. Was planning on doing Bilstein 5100's and leveling out the front. Then I started thinking I want to lift it up a few inches. What do y'all think is the best way doing that? Just getting 2" lift kit (spacers and blocks) with the shocks.. or a whole 3.5 kit? I am keeping the factor 20" tires and don't want them sticking out. Might just go with the 5100's for better ride... Let me know your thoughts and suggestions. Goals = Level .... 1-4" lift
  4. I am interested in this box. PM me if either of you are going to make a few. Thanks.
  5. Yes Exactly. as you can see in the pictures the factory speakers has this.. it makes a seal of sorts from the speaker to the door skin. so most/all the sound goes out the door instead of behind the door skin.
  6. Got it from Lowes.. its air conditioner weather stripping and I used loctite spray adhesive (Light 100). On the rear doors I used a razor knife and split it in half and the front I just used it as is, that's why its thicker.
  7. Want to give an update... thanks to Jeff5347 for the idea here are the install pictures of the foam rings.. Rear door speaker Front door speaker
  8. I might... later down the road get a DSP and or amp for the door speakers... I did not do component because i wanted factory look and easy of installation also the reason why I got the SA's because it was the closest in size to factory... btw it's not a perfect fit you got to wiggle it in there and use the screws that come with it because the screws that came out will not work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Personal preference mostly.. There is an argument for any way to go but here are my reasons.. circle speakers produce a more symmetrical sound. (I know this is subjective take if for what you will) also 6X9's tend to be more expensive. .. 4 Way vs 2 Way In a 4 Way you just get two extra tweeters.. that in almost all cases block the cone of the main speaker which in turn deflects the sound in unintended directions. I think the 4 way is more of a gimmick you know if 2 way is good 4 way must be better.. .and I use to think like that as well. I even have purchased 4 way speakers... but IMHO its not needed. Plus I got a good deal on the 2 pair I bought it was $60 cheaper than crutchfield.
  10. Yeah I was just looking at them on amazon... I got 6.75" also.. so lowes here I come. (home depot is too far away )
  11. No amp... yes it has extra kick.. but like you said it's just 2.75"... I left the cap that came on the SA's but I think it could benefit from a crossover. I never used an IB but I hear that could be causing the muffled sound... I also did not think about foam rings... where did you yours? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Thanks. I will check that out... But to give you a little background. I use to own a car audio business. We did not sell Kicker because another local dealer did. But I have always had good experiences with Kicker. I have done systems from radio-shack specials to High end Orion setups. Although I have been out of the business for years I was just going with a budget brand that I knew was decent. I appreciate the suggestions and will check them out. I like them.. They are much clearer than the factories. The highs are a lot crisper as well. I looked at the SubThump box as well.. the reason I was leaning towards the other is because they have the carpet that matches my truck. I did check to make sure that the box I choose has adequate space for the sub I was looking at. I will check out the Fox box as well. Thanks again for all your suggestions. (someone might think... he owned a car audio business why not make your own box... simple answer.. I was not the box builder )
  13. I have not installed the Sub yet.. (have not bought it yet) its a future upgrade... To get to the dash speakers.. you have to take off both A-Pillar trim pieces. On the drivers side pry up on the top and then side the whole thing up. Its hard to see in this picture but there is a black clip there. And it attaches to the trim right here.. On the passenger side there is two 10mm bolts holding it on under the Oh-S#|+ handle. and then it pops right off... no clips.. Then you have to pry up on the entire piece across the front there is a bunch of clips that hold it on.. I used a plastic trim pry tool. Don't forget to disconnected the light sensor as well.
  14. You can but it's not absolutely needed. It's loud enough for me, but you could get it louder with an amp. That is why I went with the CS over the DS series. Because if I want later I could add an amp. If you want something that can handle a bigger amp go with the KS series. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Yes!! that is exactly what I was going for. You can put the volume at 100% without distortion on most songs. There is a few with deep bass that I had to go down a little. But that can be fixed with bass blockers once the Sub is installed. Or I could also lower the bass on the EQ and put the Music to 100% without distortion on all songs.
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