Chevrojayy97

I am not sure which heads I have, I haven’t pulled the rockers yet to see if I have Castechs for sure. I’m assuming that I do based on other Castech related posts on this forum, and GM included the L33 in the TSB for Castech heads. THIS is the part that I find really weird, oil still has some milky look to it after driving it for a week, so I’m going to do another oil change and hopefully I will start seeing less water in the oil. Ever since I put the stop leak in, the coolant level hasn’t moved and the temp gauge is holding true at 210 degree. Oil pressure is perfect at 40lbs. If I had the dreaded Castech heads, wouldn’t I be losing coolant out of the tank? Tank is pressurized as well, which is what is puzzling me!? All the classic signs of heads or head gaskets just simply aren’t showing up, yet I still have water in the oil. Everyone I know asks about condensation on short trips, but I always let the truck warm up and usually drive it around 30-40 minutes per trip. Anybody know what’s up?

Thank you for the advice. How do I run an exhaust gas test? Would that be like a compression test?

Hey guys, forgive me if this has been asked before, but the search forum feature was no help. I have a 2006 Silverado 5.3 (L33) that I bought as a beater with some body damage and small mechanical issues. I replaced the EVAP canister first thing before I registered the truck, and have a a new catted y-pipe and cat back exhaust on order from a hack job exhaust from the previous owners. I'm removing the rubbing 16x10's for stock sized wheels and felt like I was making great progress on this old truck. It just turned 165k miles, and i noticed the oil pressure was dropping at idle to below 20. I immediately pulled the stick and found a little water in the oil. I figured I have the dreaded Castech heads, and am glad I caught the issue early. I've always been against stop leak products, but I had read some good reviews on Bars Leak HG-1 and how it "supposedly" is formulated just for heads and not prone to stopping up radiators or heater cores. I've driven for a couple hundred miles and oil pressure and coolant is great. No leaks, tank is pressurized, and I'm constantly holding 210 degrees and 40 lbs oil pressure. I'm writing this new forum for 2 reasons. 1.) Was adding this to my cooling system a huge mistake? I'm hoping that it will last until spring and just get me through the winter until I can either get another truck or repair this one correctly. I'm still going to install the new exhaust and do some mild paint and body work to aid in resale on the truck. I don't want to sell someone a bad truck, but I don't want to spend a ton of money if it's a small issue that is truly fixed. I've read others are driving 50k miles with the HG-1 in their vehicles... 2.) Worst case scenario, if I need new heads, what are some good replacements? Are there any heads from other LS Powered vehicles that would make a good replacement? Thanks in advance everyone.

Hey everyone, I’m currently running 20x10 -19 Hostile’s with 33x12.50 Nitto’s on a 2.5” Level with minimal rubbing. When these tires wear out, I would like to get a true lift kit for the sake of not stressing out the ball joints and CV’s as much. Pretty much dead set on the Zone 4.5” Kit and adding Rough Country Control Arms if that is possible. I’d like to keep my current wheels, but want something in between a 33” and a 35” with enough section width for the 10” wide wheel. I came across the 315/60/20 Toyo MT and was wondering how they would fit on a setup like this. If they just rub minimally at full lock, I could live with that, but I don’t want to completely cut my fenders at an angle. Thanks in advance!

What's up guys, I've searched the forums and haven't had any luck. I've read about people removing the stock rear block, and people adding a leaf, but never doing both together. I am bumping up to a 2.5" Front Leveling Kit, and want to run an add a leaf kit with it. My thinking is that if I remove the 1.25" block and add the leaf spring then the truck should sit pretty level. What does everyone think? Could I use the supplied U-Bolts with the Zone Kit or use my factory bolts since I'm removing the block. Hope that makes sense, any help is appreciated. Truck is a '16 Z71 4x4.

Did you use the GM factory door harnesses to wire up those mirrors? I have the same ones and don’t want to go through the hassle of the hard wiring job.

Okay, thanks guys for the reply. I found a full setup from a Silverado on eBay for $440, looks like that'll be cheaper than buying the dash side pieces. I don't mind the bench, I just hate that huge dead space in the middle between the dash and the seat. I'm a younger single guy in his 20's, and I've never had more than 4 in my double cab. Could've gotten away with a regular, but the double cab was cheaper.

Hey all, Saw on my local Craigslist a guy selling a factory LTZ console from a Tahoe, and the base looks like it would swap great in place on my factory bench. I realize some wiring modifications would be needed, and I'd probably have to order the side trim, correct? Any information would be of great help! He's wanting $250 for the Tahoe setup, does that seem like a fair price?

The shop that installed mine had never done a Leveling Kit before, but I wanted it done in a hurry so I took a chance on it. Thankfully the tech was an off-road guy and had done many of them, but I'll never make that mistake again. They had to end up cutting the bolts on mine because of the same CV issue you were having.

Can I ask what your wheel/tire/suspension specs are? Truck sits perfect!