slee3247

F/s is a set of 22x9 6x5.5 +30 wheels and tires. These are factory reproduction style 59. Powdercoated Melted Bronze by prismatic powders. Tires are 265/40r22 General gmax as/05 with 8/32 of tread. Minor rash on one wheel. No TPMS. These are located in central CT but will drive up to 100 miles or so to meet up. Will not be shipped due to cost. $1300.

You caught me....

4/7 On 22" Factory Reproductions style 59. Powdercoated "melted bronze" from Prismatic Powders. Tires are 265/40r22 general g-max as-05....No rub whatsoever

Can't honestly remember if there is a hole or not. If not, not a big deal to drill a 3/8" hole for a bolt. ?

These are bolted to the frame. I tried the mcg bumpstops but they blew out within a week. Give these a shot! They're cheap enough. I believe I found them for sale on sdtrucksprings

These will fit without a notch if you don't want to install one! One less major modification means (hopefully) better resale if you decide to sell the truck off in a few years. Always planning ahead

For those of you with a 7" rear drop looking for a good alternative to bump stops, look at Timbren products. I chose their "Rubber Spring" A140-65. It is a 1.885" tall rubber bump stop that has a nominal weight capacity rating of 500 lbs, and has a bump load capacity of 900 pounds. Their maximum deflected height is 1.1875", which means your differential and brake line/hose brackets will never hit the bottom of the bed. I purchased the set for ~75 USD. Just remove your factory bump stop brackets with a plasma cutter or sawzall, drop a 3/8" bolt through the existing hole, and put a nut on the underside. With the vehicle on flat ground at ride height, there is 5/16" clearance between my bump stop and the landing on the axle tube. This is a relatively simple solution that provides a good combination of load capacity (can still use a half ton truck like a half ton), and ride comfort. I have zero qualms throwing two supermotos in the back of the truck, or hauling a thousand pound load. If you have any questions feel free to shoot a DM. Just something I found and figured I'd share.

Pinion depth shouldn't be off, no, but you never can expect perfect manufacturing tolerances. Also, don't pick a specific shim set for bearing preload. It simply needs enough that you have to "caress" the carrier with a hammer to slide it all together. Just ram it together the way it came apart and you'll probably be fine for many, many miles.

Find a good dealership that will work with you on a tuned vehicle. If you're not racing the truck, chances are very slim that anything will go seriously wrong. I'm lucky to have a great dealership 20 minutes away. It's amazing what torque management does to neuter these vehicles. (Even though it's been around since the 80s)

I think the polished lips give the appearance of a much smaller wheel. However. certainly is a neat look!

People are always fun and ignorant. My truck is lowered 7" in the rear and still could be used to haul over 1500 lbs if necessary. It's all in how you build your ride. I personally cannot stand lifted trucks. But that's why it's my truck and I built it how I wanted. I'd say a front leveling kit is easier to install than rear shackles from a mechanical point of view.

My front wheels are perfectly centered. However, camber is a bit of an issue after the springs have fully settled over a few thousand miles.

Send me a DM if you have any questions. I'm 4/7 on a 4x4