Pacfanweb

Looks like Mad Dog headers make them. Trying to get clarification as to whether they'll have the same issue as the Schoenfields with having go move the steering shaft.

I need either 2 1/8 or 2 1/4" tube headers for my 79. I already have the 2" Hooker headers that are made for a Square with BBC. Nobody makes inside the frame headers that big for them. I know Schoenfield makes fenderwell headers any size you want but they won't work unless I U-joint my steering shaft, which I'd rather not mess with if I didn't have to. This is for a drag truck, so I don't care if they tuck up behind the frame like some with lowered trucks so. I've seen where some used 2" Chevelle headers and they work, but how about bigger tubes than that? I hate to go spend $2k+ to have some custom made. Would love to find some car headers or whatever that might bolt on with minor mods.

BTW, all 4 bottom bed corners are covered in epoxy and have been for awhile now. Forgot to update. Oh, and got a tall deck Bowtie block for it. Going to be a 572.

I have a small Youtube channel for water leaks and sunroof repairs, and my daughter suggested I do a series on the restoration of the truck. So I am. Here's the first one, kind of a intro to the truck and a bit of the history and current condition. Going to add one about the motor, and then do a "catch up" video about the work on the bed, since I've already been going on it for awhile. Hope for some real progress on it this year.

I replaced the condenser in my 15 in about 2017 or so. I was just out of warranty by miles. GM dealer was going to get me some assistance, but it was July, on a Friday, and it wouldn't be done until the next Tuesday or Wednesday. So I got one from Autozone on the way home, put it in myself that evening. About an hour. Took it to one of my dealerships I do work for, (I'm a vendor for many dealers around here) and had it charged by one of the techs next morning, been working ever since. Lasted a lot longer than the factory one, for sure.

2015 6L80 GMC 140-ish K Last week, driving home noticed my RPM's were higher than they should be at 45 mph. Dropped back a couple of gears, and they didn't go up until I got it back to 3rd. So I assume it was stuck in 4th. Then noticed it would rev way up before shifting, like 4500 RPM, even just barely accelerating. And didn't seem to shift past 4th. Got home, checked fluid, didn't look/smell burnt, wasn't too dirty. Checked the code, P0741. Did the usually "check the internet" and found it could be anywhere from the solenoid actually sticking to the tranny is shelled. So cleared it, and all symptoms immediately went away. Ran perfect. Today, coming home from the same place (I go every Wednesday) I've been watching it now, so I noticed when it happened. I came off the highway to a stop. I didn't notice it revving too much when I shifted, but noticed immediately after accelerating lightly that it was turning too many RPM's for the speed again. Tested right then while driving. P0741. Cleared it while driving. RPM's immediately dropped to where they should be, ran perfect all the way home. Fluid still not too dirty, not smoked. Oh, and my Wednesday customer is a dealership where there's a GM tech, he checked the fluid while I was there and also agreed it's not burnt and not excessively dirty. So what am I seeing here? Is the converter getting ready to join the Church Triumphant? Is my TCC solenoid just actually sticking and maybe I should change the fluid? Something in between those two extremes?

Have had the bed upside down for a good bit now. Got my youngest committed to and off to college now, and have lots of time to work on it. Am making progress, slowly but surely. It's been hot here, lol. All 4 bottom corners had some degree of new pieces welded in. One had the entire bottom piece. Doing the filler work on them, will flip and finish it when I have these corners in epoxy.

Yep, that's just the bonding stuff they use to build the door. It's not uncommon. I'm surprised they're even doing anything about it, it's not really abnormal.

I use brake parts cleaner, but a good wax/grease remover would probably be better. You can usually find the 3M version in parts stores. The headliner: Be sure to remove the coat hooks, and seems like there's a dome light in the rear that might need to be removed as well. Been awhile since I pulled one of the headliners now. Usually if you bend the liner it will crease temporarily, but unless you leave it that way for a long time, it'll eventually iron itself back out once it's back in place.

There is a permanent fix for this noise now, a TSB to install extensions on the front drain tubes so the pressure won't stop the water from draining. New drain tubes come with the extension tubes already installed as well.

3M is fine. One should be plenty. I don't use that type when I do it, I use Kent Automotive High Tech Clear, but I see folks having success with the 2-part, so it should be fine, just clean, clean and clean it some more with solvent. And seal every single thing that pokes through the roof on the spoiler. The nuts have sealer on them, but most of it comes off and the GM TSB tells you to replace them because of that. Definitely seal them. Also be sure to tape off the plastic around the sliding window. If you get sealer on it and have to clean it off with solvent, it'll take the shine off of it.

Well, nothing like updating 2 years later, lol. Not a lot has happened. I've been super busy, and it's been sitting. However, in the past week I've finished the last of the metal work on the bed side. It now only needs to neutralize the Ospho, let it dry, epoxy prime and do the bondo work. Have almost pulled the trigger on an engine block a couple of times lately, trying to go with more cubes. May end up just buying a Bowtie from the dealer, since I get a good discount and they are actually available. I will update again, hopefully soon.

I've seen probably 10-15 of these now, so there must be a lot of them around the country. Here's what is typically causing the leak, and what should be done to fix it properly.

Never seen a non-slider leak. The plastic frame between the glass and urethane on the sliders is what cracks and leaks, the non-sliders don't have that. Pretty sure there's just the glass/urethane/body. Nothing to crack and leak.

Well, nobody ever commented on this, but it was a bad #6 injector. Caused by a coolant leak from the heater hose.