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papageoff

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  • Name
    Geoff
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    '15 Silverado LT-Z71

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  1. I assume (hope) you're using a relay to control it. So, there's the battery in the engine bay you where you can get the load power. If you just want to control it with a switch, then get the relay's signal power from the battery or anywhere that's a convenient +12V, you shouldn't hurt anything. If you're a contortionist, you can get switched +12V or retained accessory 12V+ (what keeps the radio on for 10 minutes or until the doors open) under the dash in a terminal box up on the firewall behind the parking brake. But... I found a guy on the forum here who made me a harness to bring those circuits out of there and made connecting to them much easier. It was a few years back and have never had any problems. You can do a search through my history to find it. I can't at the moment.
  2. Changed my digitizer today with a panel from eBay. It was a lot less nerve wracking once I realized the aluminum frame it mounts to is easily separated from the lcd panel. Once you do that, there's no risk of breaking anything. Took about an hour taking my time.
  3. I have a heavy clunk that recently started a couple months ago and is increasing in frequency on deceleration that only seems to happen as I drop from something like 30ish to a stop. It feels like the transmission is sticking in a gear too long or something. It's enough to physically feel it in the truck. I don't know if it's related, but I have also noticed it seems to take a long time to move from R-N-D after I backup up a short distance (20' or so). I'm not sure if that's related. I have 112k and do occasionally tow a camper. I'm probably due for a filter change, but don't want to make things worse. I'm supposed to be towing the camper to VA next week. Is it still safe to do that? What should I check first?
  4. Add me to the list... Mine started a few months ago and I've got a digitizer on the way. Hopefully, that will clear it up. 112k
  5. The high-pressure fuel pump is driven by the cam shaft and is located at the back of the engine. That would be my first suspect. TheSundaeDrive has a video on YouTube of his AFM delete process where he changes his HPF pump. Check that out for more details about the job.
  6. Replacing just the boot is a PITA. It's much easier to just swap the half-shaft with a new/reman one. To change the boot you have to disassemble that end of the axle once you have gotten it out of the truck. That will probably at minimum require driving out a roll pin but maybe more and it will be a very greasy job. If you swap the entire shaft, you save yourself half the work. Just remove the axle like you would already have to do and replace it. Either way, to get the axle out you'll need a big socket for the axle shaft nut a the hub, probably some stout pry bars to to get the shock/spring assemblies out, and a BFH or some other took to separate the ball joint.
  7. Well, when the alternative was to hold the kid in your lap or let them roll around the back seat, this at least keeps them in one place while you ate your hamburger or read the map. I'm always amazed by the shock and disgust people have about how "dangerous" and "irresponsible" people were in the old days. I'm not even that old. In another 60 or 70 years what you think is safe and reasonable (hand-driving a big, gas-drinking truck with only 1 dozen airbags for one) will probably seem preposterous. The fact is that things will progress as our needs, knowledge, technology, and values change. #gottastartsomewhere
  8. Keep an eye out on slickdeals.com. Car seat deals pop up on there fairly often. Just makes sure it's new and from a reputable store. Graco is a good brand and usually fairly inexpensive from what we've looked seen. We almost got a graco travel system but I ultimately liked the folding and single brake on the britax stroller more. We paid for that "upgrade" though. The graco would have done fine in the end. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  9. I know it's not the same, since I'm still in the baby carrier stage but we put it in the middle of the rear. It juts a bit over the center console but not bad and honestly he likes being able to look up and back and see me. We have the britax Endeavors carrier. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  10. Oh, and I had to wait a month for the parts to come in. That was fun.
  11. I'm not sure, honestly. It's probably being replaced out of an abundance of caution but it could have been damaged when a pushrod broke, I suppose. As for disabling AFM, my understanding is that an electronic disabling doesn't fully solve the issues with AFM because the parts are all still there. You have to do a full delete (replace the lifters, cam, remove the VLOM, and tune it out. to truly avoid AFM problems altogether. That said, I have no idea if the AFM system was involved in your failure. It might be considering what you describes sounds very similar to what mine did when an AFM lifter died on me. If so, they'd probably be replacing the VLOM as a part of that job. I know they did change mine. I'm looking at doing a delete because I'm running out of extended warranty this year and don't want to pay for an AFM repair if it happens to me again. The parts for the delete can be had for less than 1k and the repair bill (warrantied at the time) was 4k+.
  12. I was just trying to remember the name of it, but yeah... It's probably that. The VLOM is the part that handles the oil distribution to the AFM system.
  13. I'm sorry I thought I replied to this. No none of my bleeders were seized. I've been there though. Snapping one of those bad boys is the start of a long afternoon. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  14. I didn't know those were a thing. Is it a straight swap? What's different about them vs the truck pads and rotors? Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
  15. I did the rotors and pads. Left the calipers alone. The only downside is that they're dusty. I'm sorry I should have mentioned that earlier --just didn't think of it. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
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