Pearl2017

I have same year and engine LTX and had same issue two different times and it was sticky/leaky injector. I have since started running gumout PEA at each oil change. Cannot be sure it helps but have not had another failure. If you scan the ST and LT fuel trims they will appear to be out of balance also.

Ive had injector problems twice in first 50K miles with similar symptoms on 2017 6.2. You may see a leaky/sticky injector as unbalanced fuel trims between banks as one injector drives fueling trim off on that side. The same unbalanced fueling may also appear on the spark plug reading. I then started to run a bottle of gumout PEA at each oil change and haven't had a problem since. IMO the PEA keeps the DI precision injectors clean and happy.

I hv Michelin LT285/65R20 with 34.5" diameter and 11.5" sect width on stock front. they barely rub the felt liners at the tread at full lock. The size you call out seems to me will be slightly smaller so should be good. the stock eagles were 31.8" and 11.1" wide

I bet it would wake up if you went to 4.10 gears. If you get the top end cleaned get a catch can to cut down on future buildup. IMO a heavier oil will help especially that motor is heavy loaded with those steamroller wheels. Run a bottle of Gumout PEA every oil change it does help also. My 17 6.2 max tow is really snappy with just CAI, Soler TB and Borla cat back with AFM disabled.

I lowered 17 LTX rear 1.75"from stock and have Michelin LT285/65R20 on. The fronts barely rub the felt liners at full turn lock. I would say these are the max with 11.1" section width and 34.5" diameter.

Cold 40-44 psi is where i do daily drive. Benefit on a heavy truck is less roll resistance. Ive never had the center of tread wear more at that pressure. While towing you should add more air as load increases up to 80PSI. the goal is to not allow the sidewalls to squat too much and build heat that could lead to blowout. Higher pressures also can help the load feel less mushy sway. Ive towed 12,000 and were 70 psi. IMO 55psi on that 5000 lb load all day long. Do some tests yourself and feel the difference.

The pill flip is the transmission thermostat. You can flip the thermostat valve plunger and it opens the trans cooler all the time. This will drop trans temps 20-30 degrees. its an easy and reversable mod.

With the Tri-tune the trans has a "sport mode" when you enable CC. Whether that is a trans tune i don't know for sure? seems a lot like Tow Haul mode. I no longer use that tune it never really seemed to be $500 worth of silky smooth and i would have needed to spend more to Iron it out. the truck ran a lot better after the trans was flushed and an update at the dealer. After that putting the tune back on seemed to undo the goodness a bit. I already had the interface so licensed HPTuners to disable V4 mode and adjust timing for slight knocking issue. One thing i would try is if you have larger tires and wheels is to correct the speedometer. IMO the additional mass and diameter has some effect on the trans torque calculations that may contribute negatively to smooth trans function. only time it really acts odd is cold mornings. On those days i put it in 1st gear and slowly roll out ...get a bit of revs then manually go to second...third etc after a few blocks switch to auto and all is good. Also have the trans "Pill flip" mod ...trans behaves perfectly.

+1 on the opt7 with a Y harness almost 2 years no problem.

My 128 and 256gb drives are Sandisk cruzer i think. Any one should work as long as it is good quality. If you have the PC for it get USB 3 or 2 they copy much faster. I will reiterate dbpoweramp will rip a cd into any format and bitrate and also add the id3 tags and artwork in one easy shot. the resulting rip is also compared to online checksum database for a perfect copy. If not it will scrub read the disk till it is. If you have a lot of music this is a killer management tool for a collection.

When i turn left pulling into the office each day i do get a clunk on the right side when wheel hits the bump. It is normal as there is some tolerance in the axles.

The KN is working fine for me.

Same truck from 17 with 55k not ready for brakes yet. Curious the answers you'll get.

Unfortunately highest available here in AZ is 91 Oct. After correcting the High Oct timing map it cruises with almost no KR now so it isn't registering my boom box as KR ?

Its been a while since i scanned it but i had filter set so to capture only multiple knock events. At the same time I could see timing being pulled. I applied a correction based on the scan to the timing and timing stabilized. From an engineering perspective I appreciate the ability for the ECU to control advance/KR to ride on the bleeding edge. I figured the 91 Oct was on low side for an engine tuned for 93 Oct thus more knock on the high octane timing map. I pulled up a scan you can see the timing droop down when throttle went up ~1% and some knocking. I was scanning on a trip and afterward i believe i had injector problems and had to take it in for second time. Haven't had any injector problems since clipping out the KR.