FreeAmerican

I've been looking at these as well. I prob can make it through this towing season before I get tires. They really sound like a good tire, I don't need an aggressive off road tread, but would like snow traction and I tow a lot during the warmer months. Hope to hear more about these tires.

Agree, didn't GM put the Allison behind the 8.1?

In the EU there are grades of diesel. Its a shame the diesel we get here isn't any better. But, better diesel exists. Here I find it at stations that usually sell ethanol free gas, race gas, and some Southern States and tractor stores. My local ethanol free shop sell 47 cetane and I can tell the difference, esp in mpg.

I wonder why they don't list an option on 2017 +

I noticed after one of the ECU upgrades that my lower speed (esp 45mph) shift points changed. Originally I would have to speed up to about 50, let the transmission shift up, let off and drift down to 45. Now, about 45 or right at it, it up shifts. This helped my around town mpg a lot. I've noticed the lack of freewheeling too. On my 15 GMC 1500 you could turn it off by holding the tow button for 5 seconds or so. Helped the MPG on the 1500 as well. I have not found a way to turn it off on my 2500.

For just a good source of tips, tricks and good advice, check out this youtube channel, LoLoHo ( long long honeymoon) a couple that full times in their airstream.

I got mine in June, z71 4x4 crew. Bought it to pull our camper, so reliability was a concern for us and I was a little worried at first. I had a CEL for the emissions that kept coming back. I did have some frustration but it was more with my dealer and their lack of knowledge on the new engine. But it turned out to be a pinched wiring harness that broke through the wire's insulation. They replaced the harness and that was it. I did get ECU and seat belt recall done. The ecu did seem to help drive ability and my commute millage went up a little. But no other problems and I am very happy with my truck.

There are a couple of things to consider, cargo capacity and length / mass of the towing vehicle. So the dry hitch weight is 650. Right off with a 1500 that leaves about 1200 or so capacity. Add in weight for bikes, coolers, people and you start inching towards your limit. Add more stuff to your camper, the hitch weight goes up as well. Most people end up adding about 1000 lb of stuff in their camper. Dishes, food, chairs and clothes. If you are dry camping then add 4-500 lb of water. Just be conscious and realistic about your load out. Then you can consider the ratio of trailer weight to the tow vehicle weight. a 7000lb trailer being pushed by the wind or passing semi's will win over a 5500 lb truck every time. And the shorter wheelbase the truck, the easier it is for the trailer push it in different directions. I started off in a 2015 GMC 1500, 5.3, 3.42 gears. I added sumo springs and Bilstein shocks, P3 brake controller and equalizer hitch. My camper was about 7200 lb loaded, 31 ft long. It would start and stop just fine. But wind, bad roads, semi's, really made some of the trips pretty scary. We had a close call with a semi that cut us off. Then I moved up to a 2500 hd Duramax. The difference is amazing. When I get where we are going I am not as worn out. The trip is much more enjoyable and safer. And only about 10% of that difference is due to the diesel. Diesel is awesome for the gas mileage and the power but the safety comes from the 2500 chassis. You can do it with the 1500. I would do max tow if you do. If I were daily driving the truck and only tow about 3 times a year, 1500 would be a no brainer. We camp prob 12-14 times a season with at least two as longer trips. If your camper were a little heavier or a little longer I would vote solid to the 2500 side. But you are in an area on both where I think you can do a 1500 better than what I did. But.... a 2500 will always tow easier.

Sorry the above was from the Euro site... this from the USA site Bilstein Bilstein B8 5100 shock absorbers are designed as a direct fit solution for lifted trucks and SUV’s. These shock absorbers feature a monotube design which provides consistent fade free performance. B8 5100 shock absorbers utilize a unique, velocity sensitive, digressive piston which reacts to changing road conditions. All B8 5100 shock absorbers are tuned for each specific application to assure optimal performance is achieved. B8 5100 shock absorbers offer a significant improvement in ride quality, handling, and comfort.

Well, yes they are, you can use them on a non lifted... But I called Bilstein, stock they recommend 4600, lift or level 5100 And straight from the Bilstein site 5100: " Due to their larger tires and heightened stance, lifted vehicles place extra demands on a shock absorber‘s damping ability. The B8 5100‘s monotube design and patented digressive valving is uniquely suited to confront these demands. On or off-road, loaded or unloaded, the BILSTEIN B8 5100 shock absorber instantly reacts to changing road inputs to maintain a stable, controlled, and comfortable ride. " Look up the 2500 hd on their site, you will see one set of 4600s but there are several sets of 5100 and the first set is 0 to 2 inch lift, and the next set of 5100s go up from there.

I've had 2 truck in the last 3 years, both with the white / red Rancho crap. My GMC 1500 had 22k miles and 3 out of 4 were bad. GM said they would replace them, I said no thank you. I put a set of 5100 Bilsteins on, leveled the front and had no complaints. I then upgraded to a 17 Chevy 2500 Duramax with the same Rancho crap. This is my tow vehicle. I started having issues with these. This time only 1 was showing signs. The 5100 are really for leveled or lifted trucks, which I am not doing with the 2500, so I went with the Bilstein 4600 and could not be happier. (yellow and blue shocks) On both trucks, steering response was much better, better control when towing, less nose dive on breaking.

I've been driving direct injection cars, mostly European, for years. DI engines do require better fuel and oil. Most, if not all top tier gas have anti soot additives to reduce carbon build up on the valves after combustion (even though the fuel never touches the valves during injection, they use the VVT as a type of egr along with other recirculated exhaust gases) Oil also becomes more critical. Properties such as NOACK. Long and short the oil in vapor form cooks on the the valves via the PVC system. Countless 6.0's are at construction, landscaping, delivery, you name it business. I also bet they get jiffy lube oil changes and the lowest cost gas that can be found. Kind of makes the good ole 6.0 make sense doesn't it. I wish you could get a 6.2 in the HD trucks though.

I was on the road again this weekend. Two hours one way towing our travel trailer over a mix of 4 lane and 2 lane and various conditions from smooth to potholes. The Bilsteins 4600 I installed on my truck controlled the vehicle 100 times better, more planted, and stable.

Yes, I am using an equalizer hitch. When I removed the Rachos, the rear felt soft, I could compress them fairly easily. Some people have better luck, makes me think it is a QA issue. Now with the new shocks, I get the performance you have, one or two bounce and that is it. Additionally the bounce strength isn't as much either.

its all about your needs. I'm towing a camping trailer, so I need the extra damping. The Ranchos being specific to the Z71, I would be willing to bet the standard GM shocks are fine. Your mileage may vary.