Crimson6.2L

Anyone have any experience with the Toyo Proxes ST3s? Looking at getting a set to replace the tires that came on my truck when I bought it.

Actually ended up being a plug wire about to come off the plug. Doesn’t pop at all now

I installed a set of speed engineering long tubes on my 17 6.2L with no cats and had it retuned on the dyno about 2 weeks ago. It already had been tuned on e85 with a afe intake and mbrp catback. Ever since the long tubes and even after the retune it pops. I know popping when it shifts is somewhat normal but if I go wot from a roll it’ll crackle and pop before it shifts. What would cause this? IMG_4934.mp4

There’s definitely more noise. I went catless as well. It does have drone nothing crazy but definitely noticeable. I can also hear what sounds like rushing air under the floorboard at light acceleration. It doesn’t sound like a tick or ping like people say with a leak. I don’t have leaks at the collectors or where the y pipe goes together that i can feel or see. I also re torqued the header bolts after 3 heat cycles and don’t see spot or any evidence of a leak there either. May be normal this is my first set so I’m not sure what’s normal.

I checked and didn’t find anything. Run the code reader again after I looked and it was gone. Actually did it twice and wasn’t there either time.

I installed my longtubes over the weekend and decided to check the codes with my scanner and seen I had a C0300 code. Says rear propshaft speed sensor. From what I’ve googled. Never had this code before the longtubes so I’m assuming I did something during the install. What exactly is this sensor and where is it located?

Thank you. I was wondering if it would have to be slid that far up or not I figured I wouldn’t know until install. What would be a good brand to go with?

Speed engineering long tubes got delivered for my 17 6.2 today. Have new oem gaskets and arp bolts. What clamps would work best. I don’t think I’ll be able to use lap joint clamps at the collectors as I hoped. Once I slide the collector into the y pipe it is basically touching the o2 bung. Driver and passenger side both are like this. Not really wanting to weld them if not completely necessary. Has anyone had any luck finding clamps that actually work?

Two days ago I had my 17 Sierra 6.2 tuned on E85 on the dyno. After pulling it off the dyno it had the ABS Stabilitrac and Traction Control lights showing on the dash from the back spinning and the front not. They all went off after less that 2 minutes of leaving the shop. But every time I start the truck now I get Steering Assist Reduced Drive with Care on the dash. It has no noticeable difference when turning the wheel but shows up as soon as I start the truck. I’ve also removed the battery cables and let sit for 10+ minutes twice now with no change. I did see a thread on the hp tuners forum that it has been a problem when some tables get maxed out in the tune. Is there anything I can do to get it cleared? In the picture that’s as soon as I put the cables back on and turned the key on.

I just had him build a extended harness for a flex fuel sensor and I just messaged him on Facebook. Great guy to deal with.

Just noticed this was added in the description of the video. https://dsxtuning.com/collections/fittings/products/gm-fuel-line-push-connect-coupler looks like this may be a little better than what he previously used

True. I’m just worried about leaks. My tuner is as well

Can anyone confirm these are the same for a 17 6.2 8 speed as well?

I may do it this way. It’s going to get tuned in about 2 hours so I’ll talk to my tuner about it then

I’ve tried searching a few times with no luck but I’ll keep trying