Chance Neel

Completely disagree. Everything from the front sounds junk. There's a reason it's surround sound. It should sound like you're wearing headphones not from a single direction. Regardless when audio is produced they use multiple channels if you cut one you're losing that part of the tract. You don't do audio because of where you think the sound should come you do it so it actually represents where the people created it think it should. For high quality complete sound you need all channels. A lot of music out there uses fades, etc, and you'll miss all of it. What other vehicles have done isn't what matters. My truck sounds beautiful and every vehicle I've owned I've put top notch systems in. Can't believe someone would consider cutting a channel out. Not to mention it imbalances the music. Most rear channels have more bass and now your going to have a front left door with different audio freqs than the front right lol.

I fly jet aircraft and have fairly in-depth knowledge of all the PFM (Pure F'ing Magic) that makes them work but this is blowing my mind. Thing looks as thick as an oil filter. Can you take a measurement and see how thick those sidewalls are as well as what grade of material is used? I'm also guessing that this is much more efficient given the lower weight=less rotational mass???

Yea but then you have your back left speaker on the back left and front left losing your surround. You'll miss out on music that uses different channels.

1. Get a pro to do it. 2. Get a high quality digital crossover 3. The door chime will run through the speakers but since they have much heavier magnets and require more power it's all relative. Get a decent amp like a JL audio or Alpine for the doors. They won't require much. If you can get a set of tweeters. I put infinity kappa 6.5" speakers with component tweeters in my Jeep and they sounded fantastic. But get the digital crossover or you won't be happy. I just put subs under my back seat that sound phenomenal for their size. I did the dual setup which was about $1100 total including taxes and 1hr of install as well as the digital crossover. A single would make all the difference in the world and it includes an amp. Very much worth it in my opinion I'm happy as can be.

yes it's inconvenient. Sorry but that's why most don't use it

Fits perfectly under my back seat. I paid $1100 total after taxes and all. That's pricey for me but I love good music and honestly I wanted a premium product that was still classy. This system is dual 8" and comes in a VERY well made and ported box. I also paid for a digital El for it and a pro install which was all in that price. It also included a small rotating knob installed under the steering wheel that you can't tell is there and allows me to turn it down or up as wanted. The sound will definitely surprise you. Back in the day I had dual 10" subs and this sounds better than those overall. Maybe 15 yrs of tech growth has helped that. The box fits absolutely perfectly under the back seat so no mounting is needed. With the amp built in there's just one big plug and two rca jacks. I can unplug and remove in under 10 seconds and still have complete functionality of that room. Was a great buy.

Fairly lax? It was Chrysler spec 11106 which only had a couple options and cost $200 to get an oil change. It was very stringent. It wasn't until about 6 months ago they changed the spec to include rotella synthetic. There wasn't a "massive outbreak" in engine failures but those that did have issues were usually within the first 20k miles and had nothing to do with oil but the manufacturing process.

I just installed these and they fit perfectly under my seat and include the amp. Sounds awesome. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693331/JL-Audio-ACP208LG-W3v3.html?tp=114&awkw=132253334665&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=69546578305&awdv=c&awug=9026908

Actually the Jeep/ram Ecodiesel have VERY stringent oil requirements. You used pennzoil Platinum Euro L (which didn't carry that name when it crossed the pond to the US) or Mobile 1 ESP. The fuel doesn't particularly matter. You'll find people run "diesel oil" in their boat outboards all the time. So I guess the entirety of Ecodiesel owners are dolts since they all used non "diesel" oils. Like I said at least one of the reasons for the low ash was for modern engines with turbines that were filled using the engine oil. The amsoil bit is it's a pain because if I want to go chance my oil in an hour I can't? I can't drive to a Walmart or autozone or other store and get what I want that day. Sure you can order it online but that's not as convenient and being able to go next door and get it. A turbocharger is a whole unit. Just like a jet engine. The turbine is what's inside and what's being lubricated. I have no doubt there are many different designs of them out there but that doesn't mean there aren't oil lubricated ones and why a specific spec was made.

He updates it and the 0w20 tests was done this past year. Also the oils being debated here were the exact ones tested. They don't just change the oil without changing the name so 2013 pennzoil platinum is the same today as it was then.

28. Eight 0W20 Oils Tested and Compared The following oils were tested in Spring 2016 for their Wear Protection Capability at the normal test temperature of 230*F, which is representative of normal operating conditions. They were also tested for their onset of Thermal Breakdown points, rounded to the nearest 5* increment. They are ranked here just among themselves, based on their film strength/load carrying capability/shear resistance psi values. The Wear Protection reference categories are: . • Over 105,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection . • 90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection . • 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection . • 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST wear protection . • Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE wear protection . The HIGHER the psi value, the BETTER the Wear Protection. 1. 0W20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN, synthetic (gold bottle) = 124,393 psi Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F . . 2. 0W20 Toyota Motor Oil, API SN, synthetic = 101,460 psi Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 255*F . . 3. 0W20 Mobil 1 Extended Performance, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic = 100,229 psi Its onset of Thermal Breakdown = 265*F . . 4. 0W20 Pennzoil Platinum, Pure Plus Technology, made from Natural Gas, API SN, synthetic (silver bottle with blue vertical stripe on the label) = 92,504 psi It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 275*F . . 5. 0W20 Castrol Edge, Fluid Titanium Technology, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic (black bottle) = 90,745 psi It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F . . 6. 0W20 Valvoline SynPower, API SN, synthetic = 89,556 psi It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F . . 7. 0W20 Mobil 1 Advance Fuel Economy, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic = 79,612 psi It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 270*F . . 8. 0W20 Kendall GT-1, with liquid Titanium, API SN, synthetic = 71,385 psi It’s onset of Thermal Breakdown = 260*F . . As you can see, the wear protection capability of these oils varies widely. In fact, the number 1 ranked oil in this group, the 0W20 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, which is in the INCREDIBLE wear protection category, provides a WHOPPING 74% MORE wear protection than the last place 0W20 Kendall GT-1, which is only in the MODEST wear protection category. Yet, if you look at the bottles, every single one of them boasts about the excellent wear protection they provide, to try and convince you to buy that product. But, obviously some of those claims do NOT stand up when put to the test. So, if you did not have my test data as proof of their actual capability, and simply looked at the claims on the bottles instead, you would think all of them provide comparable wear protection. But, that is simply NOT the case. Motor Oil Companies are among the worst, for what some would call, blatant false advertising. Unfortunately, since there is often no truth in advertising, it is in your best interest to never believe anything you read related to motor oil advertising. And that is why I started motor oil testing in the first place. To find out the truth about how various motor oils actually perform. Without my Wear Protection Ranking List, selecting the best oil for your engine, is only a guessing game.

Just read this https://540ratblog.wordpress.com Best 0w20 tested was Quaker state full synthetic and it's cheap at Walmart mart. Provided higher PSI than pennzoil or mobile one. He also shows why changing oil more often is more important than the oil used. Change it every 5k and that engine will run like its new for a very long time. $20 for 5 quarts.

I believe the real difference between platinum and ultra is the ultra is low ash which meets the requirements for your ecodiesels and engines with oil lubed turbines. Outside of that just use the platinum on these NA engines. After my first two freebies I'll probably use platinum or amsoil and the best filters I can find. Amsoil is such a pain to get though.