pdosescu

Good afternoon everyone, I am hoping to get some help in diagnosing an issue with my 2008 Cadillac Escalade. The rear lift-gate window is inoperable from both the exterior button on the lift-gate and the key fob. In addition, the rear wiper is also inoperable. I believe these two to be linked. Here are the details: Vehicle: 2008 Cadillac Escalade (short) AWD Luxury Complaint: Rear lift-gate window and rear wiper inoperable. Nothing happens when wiper is activated. Lights flash, relay clicks when the key fob button for the glass is pressed. What I've done so far: 1) Verified rear wiper fuse in good working order 2) Verified all other fuses related to rear lift-gate in good working order 3) Verified power to the fuse panel for respective fuses 4) Scanned for faults and pulled DTC B3265-00 Trunk/Hatch/LIftglass Release Output Circuit 5) De-trimmed rear, inspected wiring harness at body-gate connection. Found no damaged wiring 6) Removed harness connector before the lift-gate and tested wiring for continuity going to wiper motor and glass latch. Found no breaks in wiring 7) Pulled harness off latch and tested the harness, found 2/4 wires to have constant power, other 2 do not. I then educated myself on how the latch works in relation to the BCM. 8) Ran jumper wire and verified latch will pop when it receives a signal. 9) Tested resistance in ohms of the latch in the vehicles compared to a new latch (factory part). Found similar results 10) De-trimmed along the door sills and inspected wiring for crimped sections or any other damages, found none. 11) Tested the latch closure sensor and found it operational, opening and closing the circuit. 12) Tested new latch and found still not operational. Tested wipers, still not operations 13) Measured voltage on wiper motor harness. Found proper voltage. 14) Pulled key fob antenna module, inspected wiring, found no damage or corroded connectors 15) Inspected wiring along roof line behind headliner where main harness runs, no frayed wiring or anything like that 16) Replace exterior button due to age and brittleness of the touch-pad. No change, still nonoperational. Factory part. I pulled the diagram and it shows there is a Tailgate Release Relay (KR95A) but I don't know where it is located. According to AllData, it's behind the glove box. Can anyone confirm this? I hear a click behind there. My next step is taking out the blower motor and testing that relay for resistance between pins. Besides that, I have to suspect a bad BCM. Does anyone have any other ideas or suggestions? THANK YOU in advance for any help!!

Ulincos Latching Push Button Switch U22A4 1NO1NC SPDT ON/OFF Black Metal Shell with Blue LED Suitable for 22mm 7/8" Mounting Hole(Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0198PVYDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iOVeCb8RS6N6X This is it!!

I didn’t have anything done at the dealership. I made small metal brackets to move the level sensor up about 1 inch from the factory position. The Fabtech 4” had upper control arms so the geometry is not the same. But I still made 4 total adjustment holes/levels and I adjusted the level sensor around for a few weeks until I found the setting that rode and dampened the best.

Thank you! Let me know if you have any other questions , I’m happy to help!

The front end track didn’t widen.. at least not anything I can notice. I did install front and rear 1.25” spacers. The lift has been holding up well. I’ve had it on for 8 months and 19K miles. The lift has held up well. I have some noises here and there but the alignment is holding great and the tires are wearing very well. I’ve had everything re-torqued after about 10k miles and I’m going to have it done again in a few weeks. I take my truck off road a lot and I drive it pretty hard. It’s almost always muddy. Some people think I’m crazy to take a Denali off road but hey, that’s why I built it!

I followed my dad after he’s had nothing but Sierras all my life and I drive GM too. But the new Super Duty is bad to the bone. I would trade my Denali for a King Ranch or Platinum with no question. 100k is pushing it for that monster but I see why they ask 65-70k for the F250. Ford does a lot right,just like GM, and they should get the respect they deserve. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, the lift required for a small notch to be cut out from the rear cross member. That is done so that the differential can drop down a couple of inches without making contract with the crossmember. It could technically be welded back on if necessary. With bigger lifts, the crossmember piece is cut out completely and a different one is bolted on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I added the spacer for the look mostly. It's the same front and rear and it looks pretty solid. I ran a SuspensionMaxx 2.5" level. I loved it and the bracket for the relocation of the level sensor was good. It was actually accidentally transferred to the Fabtech control arms and it ended up making my whole lift ride better because it put the sensor at a better angle. Here's the truck with the level. The ride was pretty much same as stock. The only time I could feel a difference was at 75+mph and I think the aerodynamic change was the biggest difference. I would highly recommend a true lift for such a size tire. Yes, it could technically fit on just a level, but it really doesn't make a lot of sense to limit the movement of the suspension that way. But I built this truck to be able to drive through a ditch if I feel like it... haha you know what I mean though. Here's the truck with the Fabtech 4". I'd highly recommend this set up. I'll take pics of the upper ball joint if you want. It's solid. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sure, let me know what else you'd like to know. I'm running the uniball kit with the heavy duty ball joints I'm running a Terra Grappler G2 in a 285/55/22, which measures out to 34.4", only .2" smaller than a true 35". It's roughly .5" thinner. I chose to run a 1" spacer and I am really happy with the look. You will read people go back and forth with their opinion of/on spacers. I did my research and I am happy with my decision. I may at some point get wheels but I wanted to keep the OEM look, just a little more aggressive. My Denali is a 2017 1500, crew cab, short bed, 4WD. I'm running the factory 22" that comes with the Denali ultimate package. I have a 1-1.5" section of my fender liner where I rub on the driver side when I turn left in reverse. I haven't trimmed anything else or removed the lower bumper valance. I was really surprised when the other member was running this tire on a level kit. That's a massive tire on just a level. It has to rub ..The kit I have is designed for 33s, and it seems like it barely fits the tires I run... I had a 2.5 level before this and there's no way they would have fit. I'd highly recommend the Fabtech kit. It integrated nicely with Magnaride and I truly think the majority of the additional roughness is from the 10ply tires. I'd say it rides like a 2500 HD. Hope this helps! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dang! I'm running that same tire (34.4" tall) on a 4" Fabtech. Where does yours rub? Driver or pass side ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is my set up. 285/55/22 Terra Grappler G2s on factory 22" wheels on a Fabtech 4" lift. They measure at 34.4, which is roughly .2" smaller than a 35". I can't tell a difference in height when I park next to a 35". It it, however, not as wide. But they don't rub very much at all and they are very quiet and they balanced out very well. As was mentioned above, I also think the G2s aren't much good in mud. They slick up fast and loose traction. I have about 1200 miles on them and wet traction is okay, or so I believe. I traded a 2015 Audi S4 for this truck so I'm used to something different when it comes to wet traction. Hope this helps anyone that wants to run factory wheels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was under the impression the original post was by a Denali owner. My apologies Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How are you guys eliminating/bypassing the magnaride system? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's mine. 2.5" level on stock 285/45/22. Will be going 305/45/22 soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk