Dr Awesome

My DRLs turn off with the blinker on, so if I go this route I might have the fogs turn off. However, if you tie the DRLs together and run them through a diode to the fogs, then the DRLs should both stay on when you have the blinker on and your fogs will stay on. I'm not sure which side to tie them together on or if the fuse size would have to increase (probably not), but it's an option. If I get time and figure it out I'll post it up here.

The old system apparently used to actually drain the battery while you were driving just to save on gas, then charge back up. That was no good for batteries, they like to stay charged. They have since changed it to vary based on the loads the truck is seeing, so you might need more power if you are using a trailer or powering things from your ports/outlet. Either way, it is normal and you should be able to test it.

There's a company that builds steel buildings for pretty cheap on craigslist, they can build over dirt, gravel, concrete, or anything. They advertise it as <$5k built on site, which seems like a good deal.

Usually if it is a common issue it will be fixed with carbon cleaning (GDI intake cleaner or actual carbon cleaning), plugs, coils/wires, and/or some seafoam in the crankcase for a couple hundred miles and an oil change. I used the seafoam GDI cleaner sprayed into the intake and followed the directions and it worked very well on my wife's equinox. I would do it every 15-20k, just to keep on top of it, if you want to curb buildup that requires real carbon cleaning. Anyway, if it's not one of those, it could be tuned out since they tend to increase idle and shift points to keep it running smoother.

Drilled/slotted tend to have a little more bite, but also some more pad wear and brake dust. Just a matter of if it looks cool enough to do! I don't have experience with the Z36, but I always liked Raybestos Advanced Technology, they have performed very well on the last few vehicles and never had an issue with noise or anything. My wife was warping rotors about every other oil change with the cheap ones, so once I got sick of doing that I popped the Raybestos ones in with ceramic brakes and they are lasting much longer!

My Must Have List: Crew cab - I need room for a car seat in back and double cabs just don't fit one properly since I'm over 6' tall and my wife nearly is as well Heated Seats/Leather - I'm in MN and need the heat, and leather is easy to clean 4x4 - Again, MN winters, and for out at the parent's farm Dimming side mirrors - Had them in the last car and got spoiled, now I can never go back Bluetooth - Hands free is the way to be Radio controls on the steering wheel My need list had the "Underbody Shield" on it (Z71 option), but I later found out that it was plastic... so I had to buy my own metal one and put it on myself anyway. I couldn't care less about the Rancho shocks and Z71 badge, I was very disappointed that they didn't disclose that to me. That option was a metal shield a few years ago so that's what I was expecting. Wants: The bucket seat console is epic, so I would put that high on the 'want' list. Vented seats - feels so good in the couple really hot months Premium sound - Mostly because if I am going to spend a large amount of my life in the car, it should sound good I think the collision avoidance stuff can be annoying, but it's the way of the world now. We are human and, in a moment of weakness, if it ever helps it will have paid for itself.

I am not sure how many use Mobil 1 in their truck, but you can get a filter and 5 qt of oil for $29.99 plus tax at Auto Zone. It's a decent deal with the filter included. Once 5 quarts and a filter are in your cart, the coupon automatically applies. You can pick up at the store or, if you have Shoprunner, you get free shipping. And it comes in 5 individual quarts, so you can use them as top-off or combined with a jug for 8 quarts like my 5.3 takes. Makes for ~$50 oil change, which isn't bad for everything. And I'm not affiliated with Auto Zone or anything, just want to let you know, not sure how long it lasts. Here is what I used: Mobil1 Oil Filter Part Number: M1-212 Alternate Part Number: M1-212A Location / Category: Oil Filter Mobil Engine Oil Part Number: 124184 Alternate Part Number: 105891 Location / Category: Engine Oil

I would do this if my shudder was worse, but it's so slight and only just after startup, so it probably wouldn't be a good benchmark! Though, when it is time to do a flush, or if it gets worse, I will see if the offer is still out here. Otherwise, I'll have to buy it like everyone else I suppose!

My DIC is off by about 2 mpg high every time I calculate, it's kind of annoying, I would have expected more accuracy. It's not like I bought it for the mileage, but for the people who never calculate it manually, it probably looks pretty great!

Tried the QR code last night since I couldn't find them anywhere (though most were on my build sheet), thanks for the info!

Are you talking about Amsoil? They make great stuff, and I would use it in the truck, but they didn't get the approvals for Dexos1 Gen 2 (even though it would probably exceed it easily, I think they just didn't pay for it). If something went wrong in the engine, that would be ammo for GM to not approve repairs under warranty. Again, that's really unlikely, but until I'm out of warranty I will wait to put that in the truck.

When you ask about the best oil, you will get 10 different opinions from 8 people! But for me I use Liqui Moly full synthetic for the diffs and transfer case. Liqui Moly doesn't have a Dexos1 Gen 2 stamped engine oil right now, so the oil I have is Mobil 1 from the dealership (free changes) until I start doing my own, which I will probably switch to another actual full synthetic. I was thinking Amsoil, but they don't have the Dexron1 Gen 2 stamp on it, so I'm not sure yet. The transmission in the 8 speed uses Mobil 1 HP fluid, which is GMs standard for that. I think the 6 speed is still listed as Dexron VI, so if I had that I would swap it out with Liqui Moly around 30k. Or I think some have used the M1 HP fluid in there and had good results with the clunky shifts (don't quote me on that, though, I only know about the 8 speed). Fully synthetic is better for protection, longevity, etc. In the USA you can put full synthetic on the box even if it is blended, but in Europe and many other countries they don't allow it. That is one reason I buy Liqui Moly, which is made in Germany and is truly fully synthetic, and I've had very good performance in my past vehicles. In the end I think the important thing is that you do the maintenance on time, and less about what product you use. There's always that guy putting in walmart bottom shelf oil in every 15k and not having any issues, but you won't see me taking that chance!

Mine is a 5.3 with the 8 speed and has a little chuggle or fish bite when I accelerate at lower speeds, usually more noticeable before it's all warmed up. I know the dealer won't do anything about it unless it gets worse or more reproducible, and it's not really bad now, just enough that I notice it and I'm anal about the little things on mine. I know the 2018 has the HP fluid in it already for the 8 speed, so I know that isn't a fix like some of the other posts had mentioned. I think it's torque converter pulse width modulation being poorly controlled. And since it's a 2018 with the new generation of trucks coming out, I doubt they are putting any more work into the transmission control firmware unless there's a safety concern.

Did you snap any pics of the new shaft(s)? Curious of how it goes in, just in case I need it down the road.

What were you touching up with?