SixTwo Z71

I took them the documents today. They said because they’ve changed systems they didn’t have an electronic copy of what was done but they may have a hard copy somewhere. I brought them the hard copy today to hopefully speed the process along. Haven’t heard back from GM assistance yet but the dealership is now willing to cover 30%. I’m not thrilled but it’s definitely better than nothing. Should I be happy I got something and be done with it or try to pursue more assistance? All input welcome.

I’ve talked to my service team at the dealership and GM assistance about all of the above info. For some reason they don’t have a record of the first repair but fortunately I still have the documents they gave me of each time it was repaired. So I will bring that to the dealership tomorrow and see if it helps my case any.

Dealer called today. Pushrod bent again, lifter came apart again, and now I need a new camshaft. $5000 total. Haven’t heard from Gm assistance yet. Doubt I’ll get any good news from them. Anyone else feel that maybe to camshaft was damaged the first two times the lifter “collapsed and came apart” (quoted from service record) and pushrods failed under warranty? Or am I being unreasonable.

2014 silverado with 6.2L had bent pushrod and lifter replaced on cylinder 4 in Jan 2017, then another bent pushrod replaced in Dec 2017, same cylinder, both under warranty. Fast forward to Jan 2021 and another bent pushrod on cylinder 4 repaired on my dime this time. Two days after picking up I have a P0430 code - catalytic converter failed on bank two side, which is the side of cylinder 4. So I got an OEM Y pipe to replace the cats. Exactly 1 week after picking it up from that repair I have another loud tick on the same bank with much more noticeable loss of power than any of the other 3 times. But no code. I suspect a different cylinder this time because the tick was constant in V4 and V8 unlike the other times. Dealer won’t get to it until 2/22. The guy I spoke to cave me GM customer service number. I called and she will investigate and call me back on 2/22 as well. Truck has 87k miles on it now. So, has anyone had any luck with GM assistance after warranty? Thanks

Yes, and yes. Let me know how it turns out.

Tjbrande, I had those issues you have and the under dash grounding fix didn’t work for me. Try disconnecting and brushing all the battery connections with a wire brush or terminal cleaner. My connections all looked fine but I disconnected all the wires connected to the battery and cleaned them anyway, haven’t had any issues since.

So this did not fix my issue. Drove it for a few weeks and the problems persisted, most notably a brief loss of power steering and all gauges when turn signal or brakes were initiated. Fortunately I wasn’t needing to make turns, just traveling straight at 75mph with my wife and child in the truck. When I got to my destination, I wiggled the battery cables, they did not budge, but when I restarted the truck to head home all the issues were gone. At home I cleaned all the battery connections thoroughly, although they were already clean and nuts were all tight. Have had no issues now for approx 3 weeks, not even the dimming lights. I’m skepical that this was my entire issue but time will tell. FYI, battery is only 1 year old

Ok I just did this last night. I figured it couldn’t hurt. The rubber sound proofing was definitely clamped under the grounding cable washer. No issues this am, however, my issues with the dimming/flickering lights, and temporary loss of power steering when turning at a slow pace were pretty intermittent. My truck even shut completely off a few times when turning into a parking spot or a drive, I had to turn the key to restart. So hopefully this will help. This seemed like the same thing that happened back in late 2017 when GM issued the TSA Recall 17V-414. My dealer fixed it and I was good until about 2 months ago when it would intermittency do this again. I wouldn’t recommend taking it to your dealer unless you can have them climb in the truck with you when it is happening, otheriwise you’ll pay $117 for them to say that dimming/flickering lights are normal, bs. Their service manager must be busy because he was supposed to call me back 11 days ago regarding my concerns for safety. One other thing, I think everyone here has downplayed how difficult it is to reach/manipulate that bold and cut the soundproofing. If you have large hands it will be challenging

Did this work for you?

Pulled the trigger on the muffler delete last week. I left the flapper and resonator in place. (Could always be removed later, but doubt I will). Sound was exactly what I was looking for, actually sounds like a 6.2L V8 now. I definitely would not want it any louder, but it is certainly not too loud for neighborhood travel if you keep it below about 2k rpm. However, a hard acceleration would likely wake the neighbors. Inside the cab is very comfortable with only minimal increased volume, the noise cancellation of these trucks is amazing. After putting ~200 miles on the new set up at various speeds I'm comfortable saying absolutely no drone in V4 or V8. And to my surprise, the helicopter V4 noise is gone. As far as performance, I don't feel much has changed. Haven't done a full throttle acceleration from a stop or slow rolling to say for sure about lower end, but upper rpms feel about the same. MPGs virtually unchanged during my approximately 50/50 city/hwy drive. Overall I am very happy and do not plan on changing anything.

Thanks Ctay, And for you and others that have simply just deleted the muffler, did you notice any change in performance? Good, bad, or the same? Also, does anyone see any potential problem with this muffler delete set-up in the long term?

Now that you've had this set-up for about a year, what are you thoughts? Still like it? Any problems? Is there any reason you chose to clamp the flapper open?