e_schott

In my experience if it is leaking that bad its probably from the sending unit, but could be a valve cover gasket. While you can't really see the sending unit it is very easy to replace, no longer than a 10 minute job as long as you have a 3/8 universal joint and an extension to get back there and get it out.

Just the parking brake cable. Nothing to be concerned with.

As far as people saying the system needs to be calibrated with a scanner, I am not 100% positive because its been a minute since I have done actuators on a GMT900 but I am almost positive that these systems go through the procedure on their own after the battery is disconnected or after the fuse is pulled. To the OP, I have 2 questions for you and I can help you try to figure this out. Did you use an OEM actuator or did you use some amazon/ebay cheapie or a Dorman? 2nd question is what was the location of the actuator you replaced (this question just to make sure you replaced the correct actuator and didn't get confused as to which is which since there are several under there). Let me know, if its easier you can private message me and I can give you my number

Out of 10 noise wheel bearings I see, probably only 3 or 4 of them have any noticeable play. They will start to make noise long before they have play. To the OP, run your hand along your front tires, especially the inner most shoulder of the tire. See if it is uneven between each tread block. This is called "cupping". With your mileage if you are on OE tires I can bet your tires are probably cupped badly and starting the noise. You can also drive at highway speeds and lightly swere left and right to see if the noise actually changes when the vehicles moves side to side. If it is a wheel bearing the noise will most likely change when going left or right. But as I said feel the tires first because more times than not customers that think they have a bearing issue usually boils down to just an unevenly worn tire. Let me know

Whoever mentioned Ziebart don't take it there, please lol. The couple we have around here make a mess of trucks, the undercoating they use seems to never dry for whatever reason, and something as simple as an oil change will make you look like a coal miner. Not to worried about the spot on mine. I buzzed it down with a die grinder tonight and hit it with a little canned undercoating. Good as new. Still pretty sad though. The older wax coating on the Gmt800 and 900 trucks seemed a lot thicker and harder than this new stuff.

I think the k2 bodystyle looked great. Haven't warmed up to the t1s yet though. Maybe I will, but probably not. On a side nope, I hope you have good luck with that ecoboost, those engines leak oil like a 30 year old dodge.

Gotcha, figured as much just wanted to see. Kind of sad the quality of it. My old 03 with a wax coating was very clean when I got rid of it with over 200k on it. The rockers, cab corners, rear wheel arches were gone in that thing but the frame looked pretty good. Much thicker coating on the old trucks. Guess I'll keep a can or two of undercoat handy and just touch it up during services.

So I have like 9500 miles on my 18, I was pressure washing some mud out of the wheel wells and frame today when I noticed that I have a spot a little larger than 2 golf balls that is down to bare metal on the frame near the left front tire. Truck leaves the pavement quite a bit so I assume something rubbed into it. I did notice checking it out that literally across the entire frame, the coating can be scraped down to bare metal with very little pressure from a fingernail or even just rubbed off with a finger. I think I have heard some people talking about this before, but I am wondering now as soft as this is if it is just my truck or thats the way they all are. I checked 3 or 4 different spots and I can nick it down to metal super, super easily. The big spot I am just going to buzz down with a die grinder and hit it with some undercoat next time I do an oil change, but kinda concerning that the coating brushes off that easy. Is this just how they are?

I would have to disagree with this big time. If you are a good negotiator, most of the time you can get out the door with a 75k mile Ally Premier warranty for very close to $1000. I am an automotive technician and I still purchased one with my truck (mainly to get parts covered, but being paid to work on your own vehicle through a warranty company is pretty great too). $1-2k for 75k miles of coverage is cheap insurance in my opinion. There is a lot of tech in these trucks, and while you might never have an issue, it's not worth taking a risk when you are already spending $40k+ on the truck, what is another thousand or two to make sure you don't have any issues. I don't care how "reliable" people think vehicles are these days...in my field we are putting engines and transmissions in low mileage vehicles all week long...For what the warranty costs, it is worth it if you have an engine issue or something major at 60 or 70k miles after the powertrain warranty is up.

On something this new, going through circuits is probably the worst place to start. From experience with these trucks I would look at ground cable on the battery, then have someone pull codes from all the modules in the vehicle and see if you have any no comm codes or anything related to that and go from there. Going through circuits was something you might have started with on something from the 90s or early 2000s, but most of the time the newer stuff there will be some code in one of the modules that can help point you in the right direction, providing it is not a common battery cable issue.

Good idea but use the fuse taps. Jamming the wire will stress the terminals in the fuse box and could eventually cause a poor connection and high resistance Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

As far as the fishbite issue goes, my truck was really, really bad when I first got it in March. Coming up on 6000 miles now and it seems to be getting better. It would take me awhile to explain how PCMs learn driving conditions but it can take a lot of driving for a computer to register every load/rpm/gear combination to know when to downshift to prevent the shudder. I am confident this wont be an issue for my truck or yours after a year or so. I work for a used dealer and Ive driven a lot of these trucks with 40-120k miles and didnt notice it on them but I did with mine. I think it will smooth out eventually. Or if it doesnt software updates will continually improve and help remedy complaints like these. I wouldnt sweat it. Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

I know right? Probably not going to bother fixing any of it. Luckily the hitch took most of the hit in the rear, i compounded the hood to get all the dirt out of the scratches so its still there but not as noticeable. I ordered a set of clazzio leathers for the interior because im an auto tech and me and cloth seats dont get along. Im on vacation and the old lady gets sunscreen all over the seats, dash, door panel. I cant get the damn stuff off the leather with what i have here...maybe when i get home. At least its a truck not a sports car. Once hunting season comes around the newness will be totally gone after its getting decoys, dogs, guns, gear and dead critters loaded in it every weekend. Life aint perfect and thats what we deal with. Way she goes ya know Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

Never curbed a wheel on any vehicle ive owned but let me tell you...my 18 was my first new vehicle and probably my last. My old 03 got worked hard, driven through anything and wasnt treated fairly and nothing happened to the interior or exterior. Had the new truck 10 days and my coworker bumped my rear bumper in the lot. 15 days a shingle blew off my neighbors house in a bad storm and tore the hood all up. Less than a month had 2 windshield chips. This truck has been babied and all this has gone wrong. It is what it is and thats the way she goes. Pisses me off yeah but what can you do... Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

Hey guys thanks for the input on the whole thing. I thought back to when I first got the truck and I remembered that I did use the nav system for a few relatively local destinations and it works pretty good. I tried out the android auto, and while I still would rather use the built in system than hooking up my phone, it does work pretty well. I guess in the future for longer trips or whenever I plan to hook up the trailer I will rely on android auto. The built in nav does seem to work fine for local destinations so for a quick trip I will continue to use it. I like to blame the nav system, but really hooking up a trailer and heading to an unknown destination without doing any research was really a rookie move on my part anyway and I shouldn't point the blame on a navigation system. That's like trailer/hauling 101 to know your direction, cleareance, etc etc. Thank you all for the help though and allowing me to realize the usefullness of android auto.