kickass audio

There are a few online but sadly most have a lengthy build time before you can get the harness. It does split the harness for you so you don't need to strip and tap the wires yourself. The problem is if you don't want an aftermarket amp to power the speakers. The bose speakers run on strange impedances for the tweeter, front door and rear door not matching. The sub is supposed to be 1 ohm, front doors are a little less than 2 ohms, rear doors are 4 ohms. I'm thinking since I already have the speakers from my 2014 silverado to just hook the component speakers into the front door with the crossover protecting the tweeter but wire it in parallel with the door speaker to try and achieve a ohm load close to 2 ohms and not 4 but I don't think that would work.

If you wanted to be a fix-it type of person you can put the chuck in your bench vice and unscrew the end where the chuck goes onto the schrader valve. There is a little rubber washer in there and over time the washer gets worn out. I've replaced it before since I have a ton of rubber faucet washers on hand at home and it worked like new afterwards. Do you have a blow gun at all? If you do, you can rule out a regulator problem for air volume by connecting that and leaving the gun wide open and see what your air flow is like.

IDK where you are looking for $90 but the one I bought was a GM OEM from rockauto and their most expensive high frequency antenna is $67.89 but the one my 2014 takes is running 57.79. Since there were a ton of versions for that antenna on the market I strongly advise poking your head in the roof above the panel and see what color connector you have and if you really have 2 probes and not 1. You can't fit a single slot one into a dual slot from the body wire as they are slightly different sizes.

You could have a issue with your compressors regulator or the air chuck you put onto the valve stem of the tire. I had a sticky pressure regulator on my air compressor (it was a factory plastic piece of junk that my kobalt 30 gallon compressor came with) and I also had the air chuck get sticky and it would block the air flow into the tire. If you're careful you can remove the pressure regulator from the compressor and go straight to your air hose and turn off the compressor when the tank pressure is around 80psi or whatever you want it to then try to fill your tires. If it is still slow to fill and you have plenty of tank pressure then you have a restriction in the hose or more likely the air chuck going into your tire. Personally what I do when filling up tires is to have the regulator fully open and let the tank pressure get up to around 110psi then turn it off and fill up my tires. I then use the left over air to blow things off like bugs inside the mirrors, clean my cell phones microphone and speaker ports, blow dust off my keyboards, etc. then I bleed the tank to empty the moisture inside it. When you finish using your air compressor do you back off the pressure regulator all the way or do you leave it set to the pressure rating you put it to? You should really back it off when you finish using it so it can prolong the life of it and not wear out the spring inside the regulator prematurely.

Yeah you don't have anything more than onstar navigation which I hate to break to you but your 2014 is too old to have onstar service since it ran off 3G cell service which has since been shut down for over a year. Unless you pay a hefty price to upgrade the HMI and radio to get a newer version that supports android auto you won't have navigation built into the radio. The XM issue I will say I also had with my old 2014 and the high frequency antenna on the roof was rusty inside and shot. What's different on yours is you actually have a working compass, my high voltage antenna was so dead that onstar was a dud for service back before they banned 3G cell service and XM had no channels working, not even channel 1, and the compass would cut in and out at random then the compass on the radio and instrument cluster flat out died on me. You might also have had a previous owner who was paranoid on being spied on and unplugged one of the antenna wires that controls the XM service. One of the antenna wires is responsible for onstar and the built in compass, the other wire is for your XM service. Try and pull the screen off the dash and look behind the touchscreen and make sure the antennas are all plugged in then peek at the connection in the headliner by the antenna. If you really want XM service AND your compass direction updates as you drive around then your antenna is likely on it's way out and you can buy another one to replace it. I sealed mine to the roof with some silicone since the rubber seal wasn't that great and it worked perfect except for no onstar service. You also don't need to pull the entire headliner if you have small enough arms like I do. Just pull the A pillar and B pillar, remove your driver vanity mirror and the clip that holds the vanity mirror up on the roof and pull the rubber door gasket away from the roof. Then pull the headliner down just a little and sneak in a wrench and I want to say it was a typical 10mm bolt you need to remove and unplug the 2 antenna wires and pull it out through the top of the roof.

1: rear window motor (for sliding rear glass) 2: video processing module https://parts.chevrolet.com/product/gm-genuine-parts-video-processing-module-(programming-required-by-automotive-professional)-85004218?body=Crew Cab Pickup&bodyId=22&bodyNumDoors=5&bodyNumDoorsId=5&categoryId=3074457345616983734&make=Chevrolet&makeId=47&model=Silverado 1500&modelId=491&year=2023&bac=115369%2C115352%2C320852%2C178250%2C290298%2C115372%2C290911%2C202475%2C289459%2C172522%2C131030%2C285418%2C306530%2C115381%2C115353%2C311963%2C115368%2C115378%2C286519%2C307117%2C115385%2C115359%2C316437%2C286058%2C113532 3: Cab vents (for when you slam your door shut they flip open and release the excess pressure in the cabin) 4: Audio amplifier, part #: 84813325 5: looks to be the 110v power inverter, part #: 84962936 6: seatbelt retractor 7: i'm not 100% but it looks like the rear parking assist control module, part #: 85131831

I think that is the rainsense but some have said it's on the windshield. Probably something like a humidity sensor.

Does the 2500HD also have the voltage controller where there is a coil around the negative battery terminal wires to measure current draw and turn off the voltage regulator on the alternator to "conserve fuel" like the 1500's do? If so maybe that is fine. On the 1500's you can put tow haul mode on and after a few seconds it will throw the voltage back up to 14v or turn on your running lights to full power and it also should raise your voltage up to recharge the battery.

the only electrical problems I can see would be the bulb out system that tells you if you burned a light without you noticing it and the pulse width modulated daytime running lights. In daytime running mode the lights are actually a modified sine-wave and on normal power they run at the full 12v power. On my old 2014 silverado and my 2004 envoy I bypassed the stupid pulse width modulation problem by tapping into the running light circuit that controls the corner bulbs and used it to trigger external 12v relays that turned on the power to my HID ballasts as I ran bi-xenon projectors that I modded into the headlight. You can get kits that will be plug and play with the factory headlight wires but I wanted to extend my bulb life and not run the daytime running lights and only have headlights when the parking lights turned on. This made it so I had no DRL's and the bi-xenons ran when it was dark outside or I flipped the light knob to parking lights or normal mode.

damn I was worrying about how much weight the plastic panel on the inner tailgate can handle before it busts through but not ripping the inner and outer aluminum apart like this. How much weight can these new aluminum tailgates handle? I know the multi-pro can't handle as much as the solid tailgates but it should still be somewhat decent for weight considering the payload of the truck is around 1300lbs.

You are assuming correct. The 2019 limited is before the change in body and interior to the next generation. A plain 2019 is the redesigned for the new generation. An easy way you can tell if it's a limited or new body style cap is to look at the top area of the rear glass where it meets the trucks cab. If it has a recessed area that is deeper than the bottom area where it meets the bed rails then you have the new body style 2019, if it's mostly even from top to bottom then you have a 2019 limited and it would fit your 16 just fine.

I feel your pain. I had an accident that was my fault as I turned left out of a parking lot and another driver was turning left into the parking lot. She was moving forward to go in as I was leaving and I bumped the rear corner of her bumper with the drivers bedside. Totally minor damage and just a plastic bumper and wheel liner damage to hers but she went after my insurance and the crook managed to get 125k out of my insurance because of back injuries for what isn't even considered a fender bender. God damn dirty ass people. What kills me is she informed my wife and I at the accident she has had back problems before the accident and the exact spot on her back had surgery over 6 months before the accident occurred but Geico sided with that idiot and gave her a payout without even going to court to defend it. Either way I am now running a Vava 4k dash cam and have it wired to the USB port on the dashboard and routed the usb cable behind the glovebox, up the passenger A-pillar and through the headliner edge near the windshield. The only problems with my dashcam are that it isn't a 360 degree camera so you can't see behind you, the more angles you can get the better your story will hold up. It also had problems with a memory card where the card was beginning to fail and it would fail to record, then eventually the card died so a new one came and it works great now. Another big problem is the camera architecture is old and the app is rarely updated by the manufacturer to adjust controls on the camera like how strong the shock sensor is set for sensitivity, how long each clip will save, etc. The other problem but it is easily addressable is the USB ports in the truck come from the factory as constant power, just change the locations for the fuse on the accessory outlets from +12v to ACC to fix that and now the ports are only live when the ignition is on. Overall i'm happy to have the dashcam now and wish I had it before the accident happened. It also has a shock sensor so when it's shut down it can turn the camera on if someone bumps the truck, it has GPS for speed sensing and can show on the watermark of the camera to prove if you were speeding or not.

nice work! I cheated on my 14 and just used an old wood chisel that was super skinny to carefully get next to the lip on the valve body and hit it toward the center of the seal then once I got it pushed in enough I used a hard pair of needle nose pliers to grab and pull it out. Putting the seal in I just used the back end of a 1/2" shank impact socket that was the same diameter of the seal and banged it up in the valve body.

There really isn't a way unless you unbolt the driveshaft but you need to watch for any fluid leaking out of the tailhousing or transfer case. You will need a flatbed or even better a normal tow truck with a set of dollies to put the wheels off the ground and tow it in the shop. What's even worse is the 1500's like mine that have a single speed transfer case. You can't put the transfer case in neutral and you can't shift the truck out of park without the engine running plus if the engine is running and you put it in neutral, if you step out it will throw the truck in park and it also will lock the parking brake on too. So at least if I can get the engine running on mine you can stay seated and buckled up, put it in neutral and have someone else push you.

How long did you let it try to index your files? It shouldn't take long with a small drive like yours but I have a 512GB solid state hard drive I plugged in and it will take over 15 minutes to start showing the new songs i add to it and I keep it with over 80GB of music. All the files are MP3 and right in the root of the drive. I did try to make a playlist but it never worked in my favor so I just gave up. The playlist my old 2014 had would show as a playlist but had no content available within it.