GMMediumDutyMQ

Got the note, but pissed on the (lack of) coverage. I've had truck from Nov '14 and put on a lot of mileage. 72k was a looooong time ago, so won't be covered. Glad to see DIY replacement is theoretically simple/ cheap enough.

ANY UPDATE AS TO CONNECTOR PARTS? Planning a project that necessitates a splitter like this, and would love to build my own, if I could find the right connector parts/ pin-out information/ etc. Thanks!

Ultimately, you're likely going to find you don't want to pursue the stock method, anyway. If you use the OEM kit switch and harness, you're controlling everything via the BCM, which means it'll only allow you to turn on the light under very specific conditions -- if memory serves, only if your brights are on. Wiring them up like a conventional aftermarket fog lamp kit -- even if you use the OEM aux switches -- would give you more flexibility in controlling how/ when you power these lights up.

Interesting. Any of these symptoms exist beforehand?

Based on this thread I'd say no? What issues are you having?

Writing from the dealer waiting room as I have this done right now. I've thankfully not had this happen to me in person (knock on wood), but since the notice arrived Saturday and facing a week-long road trip starting tomorrow, figured I may as well have it tackled...

I have an odd off-shoot to this problem. I've never really had any water drip through the interior, but on Christmas day, my XM signal cut out and didn't return. I picked up a test antenna to confirm it was an antenna issue, not module, and sure enough -- boom. reception. Ended up replacing the roof antenna on my own -- process isn't bad, as others have noted. Reception restored. Curious, I opened up the antenna itself by removing six small philips screws. Found moisture droplets on the inside of the fin housing, and the PCB and chips on the antenna board itself were completely waterlogged. TL, DR: consider placing a bead of silicone around the small gaps between the rubber seal on the base and the fin body itself.

I gave up on the OEM buttons long ago -- there's space to run five Contura V switches in the overhead panel on my truck, so I'll be doing a five-button "DIY SPOD" setup. Have the switch bank installed; now comes the wiring fun. :-)

Yeah, well aware. Only studied this forum and the GM service instructions for weeks before tackling it. It's tricky not for a dearth of information -- it's tricky because the process itself is a PITA. Working blind, essentially, and it's far less straightforward than the GMT-900s were.

The second panel isn't under the kick panel (i.e. immediately left of pedals), but under the driver's sill (i.e. lower edge of door opening). My '14 SLE had both the sill panel and the second plastic panel below it, the latter primarily serving as a shield for the cab wiring harness. Should not be trim-dependent.

Look at what I have listed as my driven vehicle. Yes, this clockspring is for a 2014. You can try the older part numbers, but you'll see it redirects in EPC to 23381964. As for what was tricky - everything. Airbag removal is a PITA. SRS wiring loom is also tucked WAY up into dashboard, which itself is not as accessible as older vehicles were, even after you remove a host of panels and the gauge cluster. No connector for the heated circuit present in my SLE, meaning I had to cut and splice, and run an ATR fuse tap (itself somewhat tricky to come by) from the DS fuse block. Lots of work, and I'm not that impressed with the heat coming out of it, if I'm honest. Maybe I will be come winter...

Searching eBay or parts sites are the best way to give you that quote. Basically, whatever it'll cost you to get a heated wheel plus the clockspring, which is now part #23381964. I think the wheel ran me about $200; the clockspring roughly $60 shipped. While the wheel can be second hand, make sure to buy the clockspring new. Will stress that this proved to be a bit trickier to execute than I anticipated.

I envy you -- staring up from the green plug by BCM, and am not finding it whatsoever. Would have thought my truck would have had the plug -- there was a 7.5 amp fuse in the slot for heated steering wheel from the factory, would have assumed the loom was up there somewhere. Anyone have a photo of what the connector looks like? Would appreciate the guidance...

Yeah. I don't think the clocksprings show up in the EPC under steering any longer -- only electrical/ air bag. Should be fine -- I have it in hand and it seems to be just what we need. Will keep you posted after this weekend.

Lemme guess -- you found part number 23381964? I have a '14, and while there was originally a different part number for the heated clockspring, this one replaced it in late '15 or sometime this year. Or so the GM EPC tells me. I paid roughly $55 shipped for mine, and while I have yet to do the heated swap (hopefully this weekend), the part looks EXACTLY like what everyone else has used. Should work fine.